28 replies to this topic

[munter]

Hi gentlemen
I have recently acquired an isofulcrum chassis fitted with a 26D rewind that is held by a bracket.
After seeing Maximo's cars I thought I would seek advice on what I have and what I could/should do.
Here are shots of the chassis showing the bracket that seems to be rivetted in place.
Is it factory or not? Should I change to a 16D motor or???
Thanks for any comments or opinions.
In the deal I also received the chassis,two cuc bodies(painted and cut)two sets of unused grey foam tires in their plastic cups.

[Gary Bluestone]

It looks like the motor bracket was added by the owner. There was a cuc chassis for a 26D and it was anodized black. There was a factory made spacer which fit between the can side of the motor and the chassis bracket. I made one of these spacers using an old aluminum wheel hub that fit nicely over the bearing boss on the motor and then I filled down the smaller part of the wheel hub, that had the set screw in it, so it fit into the chassis mount.That being said, you could just leave it alone and run it that way. The 26D motors are super and since it isn't anodized black, there isn't much sense trying to be original. Otherwise you will have to go to the 16d .

[Maximo]

Munter,

Your chassis has been modified from the original factory configuration. The COX method of firmly holding the motor in place is to cradle it between the two mounting portions of the stamped aluminum chassis and then using a brass formed clip that surrounds the motor and then attaches underneth. If you check on in-line there are many pictures of the bare frame and also of the motor in place. The standard motor was the Mabuchi FT16D driven by the can bearing end side. To utilize a FT26D it requires two machined adapters to the motor and a different clip. I am sure that there is a thread here that shows all of that for you to examine. If not I will disassemble one of mine take photos and show you the various parts.

- La Maxaracha

[Gary Bluestone]

Munter, I forgot to ask what you are trying to achieve. In other words are you trying to build it up as original or as a runner. I should have said the chassis for the 26D which was anadized black , was an isofulcrum, not a cuc , since it was sold as an aftermarket accessory and I don't think it was used by Cox in a kit car or factory built up RTR, or at lease I have never seen it used that way. Gb

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Not just any 16D ...

The IFC chassis had a Nascar 3600 (Cox Reference) with oval apertures.



And I quite remember that the IFC chassis also existed with an engine with no apertures at all (totally closed) which engine was called the "super Nascar". I have one such Super Nascar engine, but not runing unfortunately.

Was is for the "super cuc" ?

Specialists will have the last word on this.

[munter]

Munter, I forgot to ask what you are trying to achieve.

I am trying to establish exactly what I have and the best options for me regarding this machine.
The chassis seems tidy and in good condition but the bracket and screws do nothing for me.

Currently I am thinking I will remove the 26D and use a 16D that I have similar to the one shown by Jean-Michel.

The only sticking point will be the correct motor clip. I have several cox gears that could replace the Tradeship(?)one, making the chassis as close to standard as posssible.

The two bodies I have are rather sad...both painted,one with the archs hacked and both with some motor intake area cut to allow for the larger26D.


Or maybe I will just sell the whole caboodle...bodies,new tires and all.

regards

[slotbaker]

That bracket certainly looks home made, and with uneven centres for the rivets, was done a bit rough. But it worked, so not all bad.

While not being an expert on Cox stuff, I have only seen an adaptor like this used in conjunstion with a special Cox motor clip for the 26D.




The adaptor is easy to make (if you have access to a lathe), and the motor clip a bit more difficult but readily available.

In any case, you need a motor clip to hold in either the 16D or 26D, which should be available from places like Electric Dreams.

[Edo]

Hi John

being a Cuc aficionados I have a few examples of original Cucs and cut up ones with the 26D motor.

Here's the original one, the very first one with translucent body with the original TTX 150 Cox motor:



You can see it has "square" venting holes:



And the orginal clip is the 4809:



Here you have the SuperCuc, with the 2 guide holes, 4 screw posts chassis typical of it but also of Jean-Michel Cheetaracha (there was also the 1 guide hole, 4 screw posts, typical of the non translucent 2nd generation Cuc which might be the one you have):



It has the oval holes Nascar 3600 motor same size of the TTX 150 but more powerful:



Clip is the same as the 4809 Cuc's above.

Here's a wholly closed, no vents, SuperNascar motor with an handmade clip by Brian McPherson (One Track Mind on Sblog) on the Chrome Rocket Cuc (also made by Brian):



And finally here we have two 26D Cucs examples with custom made adapters:

a nylon one by Frank Vantine (RIP), which allows the motor to be in the same position as the 16D sized ones above:



In this case the clip is a 4854 one (Brian also makes them custom made instead of the original):



And this ones in aluminum, by BWA, which slightly centers the 26D in the chassis and which needs a longer pinion or a 31 or 33 T crown instead of the original 29T (a good thing for the rewound 26D!) :



That said if I were you I would keep your Cuc as is, since it looks like a good example of what was being done in 67 with racing cut up Cucs with 26Ds.

Kind regards

Edo

PS here, in a display of shameless vanity, my Cuc factory:



my Cuc collection:



And my all original 1967 Cut Up Cuc (motor was fixed with just 1 screw in the rear post !):

[munter]

Thank you Edo for your information,inspiration and suggestion.
You have given me more to ponder regarding the bodies I have(lime and purple)
Also you are correct that my chassis seems to be the second generation.

regards

ps I appreciated your "shameless" display very much

[munter]

Well I have to admit that I couldnt leave this car alone and have carried out some changes.
These include stripping the chassis and fitting new oilites and crown gear,changing the guide because the original seemed to have a post that was too high,fitting a 16D instead of the 26D(it is now held in place by a magic spell,seems to work fine but we havent had a trip to the floor or into the wall yet)stripping the paint off the body and windscreen(there is still a little I couldnt get off) reglueing and sanding the rear tires,fitting one of those midget bodied drivers,trueing the fronts(??) fitting an imitation engine in the gaping hole that was created by a previous slotcar artist/owner...the car now runs to my satisfaction.




I thought about a roll bar replacement but as there was one on the engine that I fitted, I left it alone.

The body plastic is an interesting substance,hard to trim nicely,likes to tear,difficult to sand edges smooth but very flexible and I suspect ..tough.



regards

[Maximo]

Nice job!

Long live the Kingie of Thingies....Edo

I love Cuc's!

-Max

[Horsepower]

John, that came out GREAT! What holds the motor in?

[munter]

What holds the motor in?

The motor is held in by a magic spell....just say "seeay" over and over.
It was something I learned while racing plastic cars.


Actually the endbell is a tight fit in the chassis hole and a few drops of the magic liquid on the other end is enough.
Down here in NZ we have to be creative... a proper clip would be nicer though.

regards

[One_Track_Mind]

... a proper clip would be nicer though.

John,
PM me your address and there will be a brass clip in your future!

[One_Track_Mind]

Hello John,

While your waiting on the package to arrive at your doorstep, this is how I bend these clips. Some of the fellows here have seen this in the past, but for the ones who haven't here it is.

The brass strip in place, centered ready for the clamp.



After squeezing the brass strip, they end up about a 45 degree angle, I then bend the strip snug up around the die press.



Once all four pieces are cut and bent, this is how many I can make out of a 1 foot piece, I then place a scribe mark on each leg. This length is what I have measured from an original 4809 clip.



Then using a specially ground down pair of pliers I make the last bend and trim to length.

I will send you these four pieces and hopefully 1 of them will work for your needs? But just in case I've made a mistake there will be one of the originals shown below sent along with them.



Enjoy!

[Maximo]

Brian,

I had NOT seen this and I am impressed! I know that you made some 26D clips that you sent to me but have you made any 16D types?

-Max

[munter]

Hi Maximo....I am assuming these are for a 16D
Great bit of gear to do it with,obviously heavy duty is necessary to get that brass right.

and hopefully 1 of them will work

....a bit like me making wire body clips.
regards

[Horsepower]

Brian- I knew you made some of those but never saw how you did it. Ingenious!

[One_Track_Mind]

Hi Maximo....I am assuming these are for a 16D

Max,
Yes, John is correct...the clips I made for him are for the 16-D or the 4809 clip. and Yes, your correct also that I have made the 26-D clips or the 4854 clip.

Here are the complete set of tooling I made for these projects.




Don't you just love the climate for here in Ohio to rust all those precious tools?

Thanks Gary...

[One27ray]

Hey Brian,

I really like your thinking on tool construction A real Macgyverish thought process, a man after my own heart. What type of grippers thingamabob are using ? I see a lot of possibilities with a simple press like that humm

i-ray

[One_Track_Mind]

What type of grippers thingamabob are using ? i-ray

Hi Ray,
They are simply welder's clamp type of pliers. they lock and snap down in place. I'm sure there is a technical name for the tool?
What I like about them is I can change out the die fixtures and still use the same set of plier clamp.

What else are you seeing these can be used in building slot cars or pieces for slot cars? I'm all ears and Enjoy a challenge!

[munter]

Thank you Brian !

The clips arrived in the post today.I have used one made by yourself and put the others into the filing system.

A great gesture and very much appreciated.

regards
John

..................All power to slotblog and its members ...................it is great to be part of it all.

[One_Track_Mind]

Hi John,

All right!
Glad they arrived safely...Just by chance? did you try any of the other clips? Just this one? Or did they all fit and you just picked this one?

I understand the File 13 system here in Ohio...the trash can!

You are most certainly Welcome.

Enjoy!

[munter]

Brian

I just picked one from those you made that looked likely to fit.(they all did)

My filing system of parts is complex.
I was looking for some guide tongues today and pulled everything out, only to go back to the first box and there they were.

I've got it but where is it!!!

regards and seasons greetings

[One27ray]

Hi Ray,
They are simply welder's clamp type of pliers. they lock and snap down in place. I'm sure there is a technical name for the tool?
What I like about them is I can change out the die fixtures and still use the same set of pliers clamp.

What else are you seeing these can be used in building slot cars or pieces for slot cars? I'm all ears and Enjoy a challenge!

Hi Brian,

What intrigues me about your idea is: thinking outside the "Box" Recreating and item using a simple hand held press One can achieve the end results in and unconventional method, which is great. One would think you would need a larger press to achieve this item but you thought throw the process involved to do it. Which get's back to your question ? What else could be done with this device ? Well, the old thinker was thinking and a few things come to mind ?? First, I see this device as a " Hand held Press" cool !! How about using a device like this to do "Inserts" ?? like Wheels inserts..one could press, say a custom designed brass wheel insert, into a Aluminum wheel vs using a plastic one. If the insert was a little bit bigger then the wheel recess, a press would be needed to get it in, but carefully you know. ?? Or if you wanted to insert a brass eyelet into a wheel for strength and soldering to wire front axle.

One could/want to reduce the axle size on a gear/wheel/etc and press it in ? Or if you make a two peace die-set, ( that's a male/female device) say a front guide tongue, and you don't want to us a hammer to make the item ?? press it. The biggest obstacle in doing press type stuff is the dies, usually machined/the cost would kill the average project !!
Which gets us back to your idea of creating your own dies using non machined dies,cool, makes one rethink the " Press " concept. I'll have to check Micro-mart...humm. One would have to think on how to make a small table top Press hint hint hint using the concepts you have presented I just had a idea never mind
Maybe some of your other blogger will have some ideas on this subject ?? thanks again you sharing your idea with us Brian


i-ray