
Ball bearings or bushings in your Retro chassis?
#1
Posted 10 December 2009 - 01:44 PM
Does it make a difference in the way it runs?
Norman Johns
Driver of #71
Practice, practice, practice
#2
Posted 10 December 2009 - 01:46 PM

?/?/1950-3/8/22
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#3
Posted 10 December 2009 - 01:58 PM
Why is this a can of worms?Can of worms in some parts of the slot world
Norman Johns
Driver of #71
Practice, practice, practice
#4
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:09 PM
The first couple of chassis I built I used bushings for cost savings. Now that I am trying to be more competitive, I have started using ball bearings as every little bit helps. When you compare spinning an axle/tire set-up in the two, there's no doubt the ball bearings spin much more freely.
#5
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:16 PM
Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.
#6
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:17 PM
Just my .02 worth
Michael Rigsby
"... a good and wholesome thing is a little harmless fun in this world; it tones a body up and keeps him human and prevents him from souring." - Mark Twain
#7
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:27 PM
Actually the Jail Door cars use neither!
Kind of like we did 'back in the day'.
You have to use 5/32 brass tubing for your front and rear axle tubes. A 1/8 inch axle fits and spins just nicely.
Now if I can find some of those fancy Cox tapered axles, wheels and knock offs, I'd be very happy.
On the other classes, if they allow bearings, I run bearings. If they require bushings, then I use bushings.
1/24/48-2/18/16
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#8
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:30 PM

8/16/49-9/18/13
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#9
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:35 PM
I don't think there is a diff in performance. There is a diff in things to worry about with maintainence. A set of bushings gets sloppy in 1 to 4 races, bearings don't.
In the day?
In the day I did tubing, bushings and bearings. Tubing goes first. Thus, with my actual survivors, my bearing cars are more likely to have survived.
Fate
3/6/48-1/1/12
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#10
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:51 PM
Imho, you can get an oilite/bushing to spin just as free as a bearing with a little massaging. The only thing you need to remember is to check them from time to time as once they get loose you will see a degradation in the chassis performance
11/27/57-8/12/22
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#11
Posted 10 December 2009 - 02:59 PM
If I were to visit Fosters raceway, oilites go in the cars because the local rules do not allow bearings.
Thanks for saying it Craig. Hope to see you at the Checkpoint

?/?/1950-3/8/22
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#12
Posted 10 December 2009 - 04:22 PM
I thought the whole idea of retro was to go back to the way it used to be?
Seems like even retro cant stay retro . Or am I missing something here?
Im kind of new to the retro, so I still have alot to learn.
Vic
#13
Posted 10 December 2009 - 04:25 PM
Typical were SKF which at $3.75 a pair were pretty costly for a guy with a paper route.
FWIW, BB's are slightly better for Retro in that you can run virtually zero side play, which
will help prevent crown gear failure.
Mike Swiss
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder
17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 692 Citadel Drive, Westmont, Illinois 60559
#14
Posted 10 December 2009 - 04:42 PM
If you're talking about oilite bushings, I would agree.A set of bushings gets sloppy in 1 to 4 races, bearings don't.
The Slick 7 non-oilite bronze bushings most definitely do not get sloppy in "1 to 4" races. They last much, much longer than that in my experience.
If you want a second opinion, ask Monty Ohren... LOL!!!
Gregory Wells
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
#15
Posted 10 December 2009 - 04:49 PM
Jim "Butch" Dunaway
I don't always go the extra mile, but when I do it's because I missed my exit.
All my life I've strived to keep from becoming a millionaire, so far I've succeeded.
There are three kinds of people in the world, those that are good at math and those that aren't.
No matter how big of a hammer you use, you can't pound common sense into stupid people, believe me, I've tried.
#16
Posted 10 December 2009 - 04:59 PM
Yeah, I know what you mean Mike. I was making 50 cents an hour working in my grandmother hobby shop when the $20 Globe motor came out.
Pappy
Id be glad to give you the 20 bucks for it.



#17
Posted 10 December 2009 - 05:09 PM
There were ball bearings back in the day.
Typical were SKF which at $3.75 a pair were pretty costly for a guy with a paper route.
FWIW, BB's are slightly better for Retro in that you can run virtually zero side play, which
will help prevent crown gear failure.
Mike
I didnt even know that! I thought bearings were fairly new to slots. Goes to show you what I know.

The problem for me is, a good set of bearings can cost half as much as a good retro chassis kit.
Maybe Im just being cheep

Vic
#18
Posted 10 December 2009 - 05:15 PM
Just wondering what the preference is, Ball Bearings or Bushings on your Retro cars.
Does it make a difference in the way it runs?
Been running bushings in most of our cars of late. Can't tell any difference.
#19
Posted 10 December 2009 - 05:15 PM

11/4/49-1/23/15
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#20
Posted 10 December 2009 - 05:18 PM
did we work for the same relatives,,,,lol,i worked for 2 years when i was 15 & 16 for my dad,we had a dry cleaners,for that same 50 cents an hour,i ran the store,for 6 days a week 10 hours a day (during summer and school breaks),and after school 5 days a week 4 hours every day ceptin' sunday,,and yes it was uphill both ways to walk to work too,,and snowing too,,,,,lol
8/16/49-9/18/13
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#21
Posted 10 December 2009 - 05:26 PM
Yeah, I know what you mean Mike. I was making 50 cents an hour working in my grandmother hobby shop
did we work for the same relatives,,,,lol,i worked for 2 years when i was 15 & 16 for my dad,we had a dry cleaners,for that same 50 cents an hour,i ran the store,for 6 days a week 10 hours a day (during summer and school breaks),and after school 5 days a week 4 hours every day ceptin' sunday,,and yes it was uphill both ways to walk to work too,,and snowing too,,,,,lol
With no shoes?


#22
Posted 10 December 2009 - 05:27 PM


8/16/49-9/18/13
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#23
Posted 10 December 2009 - 05:58 PM


Sadly, some rules are written for all the wrong reasons.
#24
Posted 10 December 2009 - 06:19 PM
Zipp,,,,,,,,,all racing comes down to $$$$$$$,,,lol,,
tell me what poor race team or racer does well, with a pawltry budget ,"ya gotta have the equipment*" to race well,and good equipment* costs $$$$$,,,from the big pros to us little schmo's,,,
*equipment = good tools,good parts,good testing,it all takes $$$$$ the more the better,,,,,
the only thing ya cant buy,or borrow is Driving Talent ,,,,and no amount of $$$$ will help that ,,lol,,,,and neither will BB's,,
8/16/49-9/18/13
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#25
Posted 10 December 2009 - 06:28 PM
Parma's are $22.99 a pair.
Guy on e bay 5 pair for $24.99 or 2 pair for $9.99.
Random site that sells bearings has a bunch of them, and they say they are for slot cars.
1 bearing for $7.95 Shielded
5 pair for $29.95 open
5 pair for $39.95 Shielded
2 pair for $24.95 Ceramic Bearing Stainless:Shielded
Norman Johns
Driver of #71
Practice, practice, practice