41 replies to this topic

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

Philippe, you are such a Cox GEEK that you saw an insult where none was intended. "to praise one is not to condemn another". The look of the Lola isn't up to previous COX standards. I said nothing about praising K&B or anything! And I think the observation is that the solid blue looks more toylike than the better colored plastic of the others, however.

The surface detail doesn't seem up to the usual Cox standards.

But I am impressed. I saw none of these cars in the day, nor have I seen them before these photos.

Perhaps te problem is the comparion to other JP efforts with the Cox Chappy! Grin.

Don, as always, if you think I can help by "breathing" on one of your projects that you intend on racing in your retro meets, I am always available as a friend.

so, I still hold, you play with 36d kits, think AMT! Grin.

Fate

[operaslotter]

Greetings, Jean-Michel;

I realise that this response to your fantastic Lola T-70 restoration is a bit late, but nevertheless let me say 'bravo' to you, and indeed for all your spectacular work. I have a question (in the form of a request) that you might be able to help me with. recently I acquired both the Cox series one AND two Lola T-70's. The series one car is in fantastic condition and will take only a little amount of work to get back to C10 status. (It even has all the wheel inserts, as poor as they are!) Alas, it's a different story for the series 2 car. The body (yellow), although rather dirty, is in good shape; the glass is fine and both chassis mounting lugs are intact. The problem is the chassis. It appears that someone either tried to strengthen what thet perceived to be a flimsy chassis (I admit there's not much to begin with) or they attempted to repair it. In any case, it's covered with solder and held together with the stuff. I feel confident in my ability to remove the excess solder and clean it up, but I'm not sure if it's all there. Would it be possible to post a photo of an intact series 2 nickel plated Lola chassis - detached from the body - from various angles in order for me to compare it to what I have so I can assess the damage? The only pictures I've seen of the car are on the LASCM website and only show the chassis (still attached to the car) from underneath. Also, do you (or Philippe) know which brass motor strap held the motor (which I have) in place?

Many many thanks to you (or anyone else reading this) for your assistance. By way of thanks, I can offer you a pair of tickets to a concert in which I'm performing at the Chatelet theatre in Paris next January, if you're at all interested!

Cheers,

Tom

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Hello, Tom.

Unfortunately I only have a Serie one Lola...

But thanks a lot for the compliments and the kind offer.

I'm sure you will find here someone who will take pictures of a serie 2 chassis.

[TSR]

I forgot to post the pics of the white Lola, so here they are:











Sorry! The two at the LASCM are sealed in their original bag with genuine 1967 air... so there is no opening them!

[tonyp]

Looks yellow to me. Lol....

[TSR]

They used to be white but remember, they came from Hong Kong...

[Slot_Grasshopper]

Tom .... Here's a top view pic, only pic I have, at least it gives a good view of motor clip.

[tjsguns]

Wow! I had no idea that Cox ever made chassis like these. They are similar to the Dan Gurney Stocker Chassis. Do they preform like the Gurney? ( read...like crap!) Maybe a couple rubber bands to keep them in the slot? No drop arms so maybe not..........

[TSR]

Actually, the Lola with this chassis was quite a good car on the track. Unlike the Ford that has a badly designed drop arm, the Lola uses the entire body as a monocoque structure holding the front wheels axle, and the nickel plated tubular chassis uses the weight of the motor to apply pressure on the guide. The chassis is articulated from two tabs molded at the rear of the body.

[tonyp]

PDL,

Hi grade Chinese plastic. LOL.. These are pretty neat, I never saw one when they came out.

[operaslotter]

Tom .... Here's a top view pic, only pic I have, at least it gives a good view of motor clip.

Dear Slot Grasshopper;

Thanks very much for the photo; it's a great help!

Cheers,

Tom

[janj86]

i have a chassis but no body ,, can i use a tamiya or old xerex lola body to work for a season?

[TSR]

You can use anything you want, but attaching the body to the chassis may prove a challenge since the original uses molded mounts at the back of the body that key into two pieces of tubing on the side of the axle bracket...

[janj86]

actually i was talking about the first chassis in string .. gold with ackerman front ... but i guess it is still same issue as to getting mounts right ..

[slotbaker]

That one's pretty easy.

Just get 3 plastic wall plugs a bit longer than is required, and lightly (but firmly) screw them to the top side of the chassis using self tapping pan head screws.

Sit the chassis on top of the plugs, and keep shortening the plugs until you get the correct ride height and even side to side, then epoxy the plugs to the inside of the body while aligining the wheels/chassis in the correct position in the wheel arches.

Once the epoxy has set, you are good to go.

[Martin]

i have a chassis but no body ,, can i use a tamiya or old xerex lola body to work for a season?

Hey Jan, I realize this is an old blog. I am in the process of restoring a blue Cox Lola T70 myself. The K&B Lola T70 are identical twins. Tamiya is bigger and made from different tooling.  I assume the Cox was made from the modified K&B tooling.It would make a perfect downer for you project if you can find one. 

I am looking for a blue lower front valance for mine, if any one has one I can pay or trade Tamiya Lola T70 body so I can complete this project.

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Martin, I answered your PM.

 

Unfortunately after making one car with two, taking the best of each of them, I discarded what was poor.

 

Good luck with your query.

 

Jean-Michel