24 replies to this topic

[Neuspeed]

Now I am at the stage on wanting to wing a body myself. I know that you can buy them already painted and winged, been down that road.There are lots to chose from but I would like to paint and wing myself.

Is there a page that shows how to do this? I did a search and came up with nothing. I know that the proper mounted body will make a world of difference. I know that most of you have your own way of doing it, I would like to hear them all.

I am working on two bodies, one is a O/S Viper, and the other is a Koford Peugeot.

[slotbaker]

Like most thing in slot cars, there probably a few ways to achieve the same result, and here is one way.

[Neuspeed]

Thanks, that will get me started.

[Neuspeed]

Well the painting is done.

[slotbaker]

Oooh. that's a big photo'. You might like to resize down to about 800 pixles wide to save bandwidth and make for quicker upload for visitors.

Nice looking body, in true Aussie Green & Gold, colours.

[Neuspeed]

Yeah let me see what I can do to resize. Thanks.

[Bill from NH]

That Slotside article, which Steve provided the link for, I believe is the only winging article still on the net. I've used it in the part and it worked well.

There used to be a more detailed article on the Slotzone website but that went down about three years ago.

Some of the old issues of Slot Car Bulletin magazine had winging articles in them.

[Cheater]

I resized your picture for you.

You're new here (welcome, BTW) and probably don't know that Slotblog has picture size limits.

HERE's the thread on pic sizes in the Board Tutorial forum.

You also are not completing the last step of the pic posting process and I also fixed that. Please check out THIS THREAD.

Sure sounds like we need to encourage one of the wing car racers to do a good winging tutorial for Slotblog. Any volunteers?

[Neuspeed]

Thanks for taking care of those things. That post would be very helpful also.

[obnoxious001]

My best suggestion is to see if you can get your hands on a body that someone has run and is done with, and carefully look it over and take it apart, piece by piece to see how it was done. I assume you are running at PCH, talk to Bob Maxwell when he isn't too busy, he may have some pointers.

I kit bodies for several successful G7 racers and others from Buena Park. To say there is somewhat of a learning curve to be able to kit a body is an understatement. You will need a good quality double stick adhesive, some 1/2" 898 3M tape, maybe a roll of 1/4" also ( I use something other than 898 for the 1/4", but have no idea where to tell you to look for it) some book tape or heavy duty clear packaging tape, a ruler that is marked in millimeters, a sharp X-Acto, and a good cutting surface or seal-healing cutting mat. I built a tool to fold rear spoilers and diaplanes, and have a few hole punches that are used for lightening.

You will also need to know what size to cut the body; again let me refer you to Bob at the track if you are running at PCH. You didn't state what class you are running, but if it's the $100 spec class, there are specs for the body you need to follow.

[HarV Wallbanger III]

Baxter,

I'll show you how I have done HUNDREDS of pre-mounts when I was doing Front Line Products years ago. BTW there is more then one way to "skin a cat".

I have a body for our new recycle class I need to do so as soon as I get the tripod set up I'll take some shots and show you another way to do it.

There are many ways; you can just pick what works for you.

[W. J. Dougherty]

Here is the best article I have ever seen on how to wing a body. It was posted by Larry Blanton on Slotzone a number of years ago. I copied it and refer to it every time I wing a body.

Special thanks to Mr. Blanton...

wjd

Attached Files

•  Wing_Bodies_by_Blanton.doc   1.91MB   403 downloads

[Neuspeed]

Yes, I have had all my bodies done by Bob and he is great!

But to fully understand the physics I have to learn myself, so that's where I'm headed. I am now past the motor part as I am building fast motors that do a great 2.52 on PCH track (Gr12). I just finished winging the car, so at lunch time I will run the body that I winged and then put on the body that Bob winged and see what time difference there is. I guess that is one way to see where I'm at.

But, yes, I welcome all the advice. Thanks you guys so much.

Hey, Harv, yes we can get together when time permits.

[Neuspeed]

Well, I'm in the ballpark. Time was 2.57. The only thing that I can see is that I am scrubbing off time in turn 3; the butt is sliding out a little too much, I will post pics but it's not bad for a first. I would like too see a 2.4 but it will take some time.

I am running a Slick 7 chassis, a Koford X12 mod by me , and a O/S Viper body.

[Neuspeed]

My end result, not clean but it works.

[LindsayB]

Looks good, you will need some more tape to reinforce the pin holes. On the front I like using the Ninja stars and if you can mount the body at the front before you attach the side dams place the stars between the wing and the body.

With faster motors and faster tracks you should look at making the front of the wing stiffer. This is done by a little bit of wing material about 1/4 inch wide bent in an L and stuck between the body and inside of the wing right on the very front of the body (not the diaplane). When needing to go faster again (Grp 7) more Lexan on the outside about a 1" square.

I also use the 2" clear tape in a strip the width of the car, wrapping from the top (say 1/2" from front of body) to the underneath of the car. This helps secure the diaplane to the body; it also gives a covered edge (wrapped) at the front when moving through the air.

[Neuspeed]

Thanks for the advice. I am working on a new body.Ttrying to get a feeling for what works.

Now I see some cars with the diaplane up, while others face them down. What does this do?

[LindsayB]

Not sure what you mean, diaplane should be level with the track, just a bit above the body line. That way if you loose a front pin the body drags on the track before the diaplane.

If your car is running in glue on a fast King (which seems by the times you have put up) you may have too much body (too long - might just be the photo). You want the the bend in the diaplane to be just a little in front of the the braids, your body looks to far forward at the front. Also the back of the body wants to be about level with the rear of the rim, that should be a good guide to start on body length. Try 30mm high at the rear for a Box 12.

The specs for the $100 wing class seem good for length and height of body.

[W. J. Dougherty]

Is this a play car or a race car?? In what class and under what chassis rules??

Thanks,

wjd

[Bill from NH]

Bill, thanks for posting the Larry Blanton winging article. I made sure to save it this time.

[Neuspeed]

yes Bill that was a great post. I printed it out to take with me every where I go to read it over and over:)

WJD it is a race car. We race on Saturdays at 5pm at pch Unlimited Gr12, I guess you can call it. No weight restrictions.

[Neuspeed]

PCH



Slotcar Chassis:

• unlimited
• axle ball bearings are legal

Slotcar Body: Approved Bodies (PDF)

Slot Car Motor:

• c-can based motor- koford, kelley, viper, rjr, mura, pro slot, cahoza, bow, b52 and kamen cans are legal.
• may notch cans for axle clearance
• may drill 1 small hole per side to ease magnet installation.
• single piece full height c-can magnets
• may epoxy or super glue magnets in place.
• may interchange mfg. Parts. Aftermarket aluminum endbells are specifically legal.
• x-12 arm .510 minimum diameter
• shunt wire is legal
• spring insulation is legal
• any springs
• ball bearings in motor allowed.

Attached Images

• 

[Paul Kovich]

Bill, you deserve a Nobel prize for saving Larry's wing article. That is the best article ever done on winging a body. I was seriously bummed when slotcarzone.com went down and I realized I hadn't done what you did which was to copy that article. Well I copied it this time. Thanks again .
Paul Kovich

[HarV Wallbanger III]

That is a great article Bill.

[Mike Walpole]

neuspeed - how much did the body weigh?

One of the local guys got a G12 body from Beuf that weighed ~8.5g. My best efforts are coming out about 8.7g for a G12 body and that was a short one (136 mm, 5.35") on a 4.490" chassis. I usually build at 138 - 140 mm. I have no idea how Blanton got a body below 7g. That is amazing. Great article.