28 replies to this topic

[OneHotDog]

Howdy,

I just joined. I love racing and collecting slot cars from my childhood. One slot car I have is a Strombecker Lotus 19 (the dark green one, #97) body only. When my late father and I played with these slot cars, I remember the chassis being plastic. I would like to get a brass chassis that fits this slot car, preferably a Strombecker brass chassis. Does one exist? If so, do I have to modify the body to attach the chassis or does the body have mounts already? Where could I buy this chassis? I have a Strombecker RS61 porsche competition kit MIB. I assume that chassis is the same one for the Lotus. Am I correct? Thanks for any help!

AM

[TSR]

Andy,
Welcome. Indeed Strombecker produced a brass chassis for this body, fitted with a "Scuttler" motor. I will post pictures in the next 24 hours.

[OneHotDog]

Thank you. If you could post a link to source these chassises so I can purchase them I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks again.

[TSR]

Now that is a whole different animal... all I can provide is information about what they are and look like, but where to find one is a different matter...

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

They did a simple chassis that fit both the RSK and the Lotus for the Scuttler.

If you get one, be sure to stabilize the motor bracket as it eats arms and gears if you don't. Or you can sub a better motor like the Atlas 208 or Pittman 196.

Strom also did a generic brass chassis kit for these motors that is very adjustable, it was designed to work with 1/24s as well with extension pieces.

LATER they did a two piece brass chassis for a 16d type motor that uses a different set of posta and will not fit this bodies mouts.

Fate

[OneHotDog]

Hi

They did a simple chassis that fit both the RSK and the Lotus for the Scuttler.

If you get one, be sure to stabilize the motor bracket as it eats arms and gears if you don't. Or you can sub a better motor like the Atlas 208 or Pittman 196.

Strom also did a generic brass chassis kit for these motors that is very adjustable, it was designed to work with 1/24s as well with extension pieces.

LATER they did a two piece brass chassis for a 16d type motor that uses a different set of posta and will not fit this bodies mouts.

Fate

Thanks! Could you post a picture of the generic brass chassis that would fit this body? I'm new to all this and its really confusing to keep track of all the different combinations of bodies and chassises.

[Lone Wolf]

Andy, Here is a pic of the Strombecker "Competition " style chassis. I may be able to supply a chassis that will fit. Joe

http://www.paceautor...d=1673&fid=1569

[OneHotDog]

Andy, Here is a pic of the Strombecker "Competition " style chassis. I may be able to supply a chassis that will fit. Joe

http://www.paceautor...d=1673&fid=1569

Great! What's the price and how do I order one?

[Lone Wolf]

Andy, Before you buy a chassis from me or anybody else I wanted to point this out to you. Although they look the same from the top, the plastic chassis and brass chassis cars are very different underneath. Take a look.



The body at the top takes the brass chassis. Notice the different body retaining screw types and positions. More importantly, the brass style body has a bosses at the front and rear to support the chassis. These would be hard to duplicate.

My little Lotus is running a plastic chassis, optional Ackerman steering and Monogram rims and tires. It is really fun to drive just as it is.
If you just want to have some fun, a plastic chassis with or without mods would be fine, You just need good fresh rubber on it.



Keep in mind that 1960's prices no longer apply to vintage parts . Some are very hard or near impossible to find. Hope this helps. Joe

[TSR]

Joe,
Good point!
Both Strombecker and Revell modified the inner molds of many of their models many times to adapt to different chassis.

Quick quiz: which slot car body mold received the most alterations ever?

[OneHotDog]

Andy, Before you buy a chassis from me or anybody else I wanted to point this out to you. Although they look the same from the top, the plastic chassis and brass chassis cars are very different underneath. Take a look.



The body at the top takes the brass chassis. Notice the different body retaining screw types and positions. More importantly, the brass style body has a bosses at the front and rear to support the chassis. These would be hard to duplicate.

My little Lotus is running a plastic chassis, optional Ackerman steering and Monogram rims and tires. It is really fun to drive just as it is.
If you just want to have some fun, a plastic chassis with or without mods would be fine, You just need good fresh rubber on it.



Keep in mind that 1960's prices no longer apply to vintage parts . Some are very hard or near impossible to find. Hope this helps. Joe

Thanks Joe. I'll have to go home and check the body out first. I did not know this!

[OneHotDog]

Joe,
Good point!
Both Strombecker and Revell modified the inner molds of many of their models many times to adapt to different chassis.

Quick quiz: which slot car body mold received the most alterations ever?

I'm gonna guess the Revell Corvette in 1/32 or 1/24 scale.

[TSR]

No, both the 1/32 and 1/24 Vette body and driver compartment molds were modified only once so as to go from the ladder aluminum frames to the brass "monocoque" frames.
A single Revell slot car model body mold was modified no less than EIGHT times! Which?

[OneHotDog]

No, both the 1/32 and 1/24 Vette body and driver compartment molds were modified only once so as to go from the ladder aluminum frames to the brass "monocoque" frames.
A single Revell slot car model body mold was modified no less than EIGHT times! Which?

A Ferrari? Maybe the 250LM? Okay, not knowing the history of slot cars I have no more guesses. Which car was it? I probably don't even remember it!

[TSR]

Andy, it is simply the most common of all Revell 1/32 scale models, the Ferrari 250GTO. First issued as a body kit, then a full kit, its body and driver's compartment changed 7 times over the years, then the headlights were filled in in its ultimate version, and that made # 8.
Collecting all 8 versions is tough because the last two are not very commonly found...

Here is # 7:



These is a # 8 for sale on eBay now...

Also here is the Strombecker kit of the Lotus 19 with the brass chassis and the Scuttler motor:



Please note that Strombecker that was not too worry about misrepresentation to their teenage customers, shows a Lotus 23 on the box cover of this type 19 model...
Also the # 96 decals are for the red car of the Arciero Bros. driven by Al and Bobby Unser as well as Dan Gurney, but the molding for this was always a color of green that few 19 ever wore, if any!
Never mind.
Trick question: whose "23" is on the cover of the box?
Note: I don't know the answer but the picture was taken before 1965 and around Chicago. Any learned opinion out there?

[Duffy]

Trick question: whose "23" is on the cover of the box?

Trick answer: Tom Terrell. Meadowdale Sep. '64.



Duffy

[TSR]

Michael, beautiful!
That was quick too, I was going to ask the question to the real pros on the Nostalgia Forum and you beat me to it!
However, the picture of the car on the box must have been taken earlier because it does not have the rear brake-cooling scoops added on the picture you show... so earlier in the year and where?
Thanks!

[Duffy]

Hmm, well, I was lucky to get this far! Back to the real pros...

[TSR]

I will let you know if one of these historical geniuses get it down to the time of the day.

[OneHotDog]

Philippe,

How much is one of the Strombecker competition kits worth? I have a MIB RS61 that I'd really rather build than just hold on to. Slot cars seem lonely when left unassembled and unused!!!! Thanks.

BTW, I guessed it was a Ferrari! Do I get half credit?

[TSR]

It all depends on the kit you have. If it is one of the ones with the plastic chassis, just build it. If it is one of the Comp Kits with the brass chassis, depends on the kit condition. If pristine (meaning contents and box) and sealed, I would think twice about building it because the minute you do it will lose over 70% of its dollar value.

[OneHotDog]

It all depends on the kit you have. If it is one of the ones with the plastic chassis, just build it. If it is one of the Comp Kits with the brass chassis, depends on the kit condition. If pristine (meaning contents and box) and sealed, I would think twice about building it because the minute you do it will lose over 70% of its dollar value.

The box is sealed (in perfect condition I might add) and it does have the brass chassis. I bought it to race. I paid about $95. You think its worth more than that? I'm in a quandry here: do I want to hold on to it and sell it later or have the thrill of reliving my childhood when my Dad raced with me?

[TSR]

It is probably not worth more but as you build it, the price of every sealed kit left on the planet will inch higher. Personally I would preserve it, but it is a choice you have to make. I am not the one telling anyone what they must do.

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

Many years ago most of my first "deals" with hilippe consisted of my swapping NOS boxed kits I had found for lots and lots of bits to restore or rebuild the stuff I wanted! Given the 70% number, perhaps someone can swap both kits for one NOs and still feel like they made a deal.

Fate

[OneHotDog]

Hi

Many years ago most of my first "deals" with hilippe consisted of my swapping NOS boxed kits I had found for lots and lots of bits to restore or rebuild the stuff I wanted! Given the 70% number, perhaps someone can swap both kits for one NOs and still feel like they made a deal.

Fate

Thanks Fate. However, I have an emotional attachment to this particular kit for reasons stated above. I'm gonna build this kit.