46 replies to this topic

[bosmeck]

Here's another project I just started. It's a 1/24 Cox Ferrari 158 F1 slot car. I'm converting it to a 1964 Italian Grand Prix winner and Driver, John Surtees car.

I'm not going for super detail but a mild but good representation of the car. You can see the changes I've done to the body in order to pull this off. Believe it or not, a lot work went into this body and it should look pretty cool when it's done. I've also used rivets (again) to pull off a little more detail. I'll try to show more photos of this car soon.

Well, I'm off to cut some windows for the Lola T70 I'm doing. I'll have some stuff ready soon to show on that build.

[Champion 507]

WOW!

[TSR]

Nice! Here is some graphics help:

[Prof. Fate]

Hi,

I have never been happy with my efforts on this car and other 1.5s. It seems to me that the only way to get that front end stance would be with a "drop front" axle and using a guide pin! Not to hijack the thread, just observing the problem of modeling these cars.

Fate

[idare2bdul]

The cars of that era were had an elegant simplicity. To me they were the most beautiful in F1.

[TSR]

Wings destroyed racing.

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

And thus you have the reason in another thread where I express no knowledge of the current F1 scene!

Fate

[Scale Nut]

Here's another project I just started. It's a 1/24 Cox Ferrari 158 F1 slot car. I'm converting it to a 1964 Italian Grand Prix winner and Driver, John Surtees car.

I'm not going for super detail but a mild but good representation of the car. You can see the changes I've done to the body in order to pull this off. Believe it or not, a lot work went into this body and it should look pretty cool when it's done. I've also used rivets (again) to pull off a little more detail. I'll try to show more photos of this car soon.

Well, I'm off to cut some windows for the Lola T70 I'm doing. I'll have some stuff ready soon to show on that build.

CHRIS, THANK YOU FOR DOING THIS CAR SO I'LL BE ABLE TO SEE ONE DONE RIGHT

[bosmeck]

Update on the Ferrari. Instead of using the Cox pipes I made my own and used part of the original pipe section. Now it's on to the springs and rods. The car is coming along real well. I may do some more changes. Needless to say, it will be all cleaned up before painting. Anyway...Onward....

[Scale Nut]

GEEZ !!!!!! THAT IS CRAFTSMANSHIP
I NEVER GET TIRED OF LOOKING AT YOUR WORK

WORKING ON DRIVER INSTALL TO MY DU BRO FERRARI 312
THANKS FOR THE INSPERATION
CHEERS JIM A

[Scale Nut]

JUST WANTED TO THROW UP THIS PHOTO , FROM THE LOOKS OF IT,

I'M GUESSIN' THAT YOU'VE SEEN IT

[bosmeck]

that's it Jim - Thanks mate

[bosmeck]

Okay, here's an update on the Ferrari. It's going along pretty well. Needless to say, it's in the rough stage. I'll paint the brass and solder on the springs and rods in flat black to keep a real nice clean look. I added a little rod detail to the engine section. I'll add more detail later when I'm in the painting stage.

Anyway, onward...



Thanks guys for the kind comments... cheers!

[fox]

Maaaaan! This is just amazing! I´m curious how you did the exhaust tubes, what material is it and how did you manage to bend them in shape?

[Rotorranch]

Maaaaan! This is just amazing! I'm curious how you did the exhaust tubes, what material is it and how did you manage to bend them in shape?

Me too! And can I get 3 sets for my cars?

Rotor

[Jairus]

That material is most likely evergreen plastic rod. It is easy to heat in boiling water to soften and then bend before cooling. I have also used just a candle flame for simple bends but the heat is not as easy to control. Just those simple pipes probably wasted a bunch of rod in unexceptable bends.
That said.... Chris probably has an easier solution, like he found them in another kit and adapted them to this?

[bosmeck]

That material is most likely evergreen plastic rod. It is easy to heat in boiling water to soften and then bend before cooling. I have also used just a candle flame for simple bends but the heat is not as easy to control. Just those simple pipes probably wasted a bunch of rod in unexceptable bends.
That said.... Chris probably has an easier solution, like he found them in another kit and adapted them to this?

Hey Jairus, I used plastic rod and went for it with a lighter LOL! What a nightmare but I pulled it off. I think boiling water will be the way to go for sure. Good tip brother.

[bosmeck]

Update...

I thought I would show what I'm doing with the driver. It's in a rough stage right now and it may change. I used the original Cox driver and body and then used the arms of another Cox driver (Chap 2D). I also used a Cox 1/32 Cheetah steering wheel. I may need to move it a little forward to give it more of a illusion.

Anyway, it's very rough so keep that in mind. Check out the glasses. You can see that I have carved them out so when I'm finished painting I'll then fill them with clear epoxy.

I also did some more detail work on the gearbox. I'm getting real close now to clean up and paint. I'll shoot one more time once everything is cleaned up and do a build up so you can see the final mock-up.

Onward...

[endbelldrive]

Yowza!! I love seeing projects in the primer stage!

[Mark Johnson]

RIVETING!!

[bosmeck]

thanks lads!

Update...

Well, the car is painted and clear coated. I shot this in the rough stage in order to show what it looks like before I sand and polish. In some cases I'll just polish. You can see the orange peel real clear. Needless to say, if you are using an air brush your painting should be smooth. You don't have much control from a can. The gearbox and motor are painted and will be detailed but I thought I would show the base in which to start with. There will be a few adjustments for a much closer fit on the arms. In general, I'm very pleased in the way this is all coming together. I'm working on the driver right now and should have some photos soon. Anyway, please keep in mind that this is in a very rough stage.

Onward...

[Jairus]

BEAUTIFUL regardless!

Did you warm the can? Even spray cans can give gloss smooth paint if you warm the paint in hot water or on a hot plate.
Of course if you are shooting outside when the weather is below 55 degrees.... welll.....

[bosmeck]

That's it J... working outside. It was warm and I have warmed the can in the passed but it does not make that much of a difference. I just labor on it later to get it smooth. To be honest, I'll be trying the air brush and different paints in the near future.

[bosmeck]

Update...

Okay, the first part of polishing is done with a course and I'll be detail polishing with fine Tamiya compound. This will take a little while but worth it in the end. After that, I'll use regular polish to get a real nice shine. Already you can see the body is looking real smooth. The driver is done and I add some more little details later. Everything fits well. Lots of little details will start to appear on the car on the next photo shoot. Remember, I'm not going accuracy here but, a mild representation of the Surtees Ferrari and keeping in mind that this a Cox slot car.

Onward...

[fox]

Simply stunning, mate! Congratulations