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Looking for AutoAir hints/tips


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#1 Foamy

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 11:51 AM

Gotta squirt some PETG and am not happy.

Anyone use this stuff on clear plastic, and how well did it work?

What kinda air, did you need to reduce it, what did you reduce it with?

Thanx, kidz.
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#2 HarV Wallbanger III

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 11:24 AM

Foam water is 'fer drinking, washing in and washing off! I hate water paints!

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#3 Foamy

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 05:55 PM

Yeah, well, PETG bodies die (explode!)when lacquers or urethanes are used. I've seen the end results of AutoAir on helmets and cycle parts, and end results look pretty awesome.
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#4 GearBear

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 05:48 PM

Foamy,

I use AutoAir, Createx, Fascolor, and a few other water based acrylics inside my bodies all the time. The biggest thing about the water based paints is that you need to heat set them. So have a hair dryer, or hot air gun handy and as soon as you put your color down hit the paint with heat and get it HOT. Just hot enough to not be warping the body ;) If you don't do this, the paint will usually just flake off the body at the first hit.

Auto Air makes a really nice medium for thinning the paints for the Air brush. I typically shoot at about 35 psi and adjust the paint to the pressure by adding medium until the paint flows the way I want it to.

I've also used Formula 409 to thin the paints for spraying with good results.
Gary Johnson

#5 BillyBob

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 12:56 PM

PETG - A different kind of Animal.

Auto-Air would be my choice. :good:
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#6 Pablo

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Posted 24 September 2019 - 08:13 AM

Yes I know I'm WAY late to the party. But I just used Auto Air first time yesterday. I thinned it with Tamiya Thinner and it worked absolutely perfect. Concur with it needs more blow dry heat than other paints. Get it good n hot.

 

This stuff sprays a fine mist at 35 PSI, finer than any acrylic I've used.

 

Passes the crinkle test, adhesion is the best I've seen on an acrylic. This is Candy Root Beer. The black thingies are inside waterslide decals set with Faux glazing medium. The thumb smear was me testing how long it takes to dry. Both flat swatches are 1/2 backed with white

 

IMG_3683.JPG

 

 


Paul Wolcott


#7 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 September 2019 - 12:46 PM

Looks fine. Have you tried backing it with gold & silver too for comparison? Which Tamiya thinner did you use? Was it X-20A? What paint to thinner ratio did you use?  1:1, 2:1, or something else? I've had new bottles of red & green Auto Air setting on a shelf for ages, probably since before I found Createx fabric paints locally.


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 24 September 2019 - 02:00 PM

I'll try gold and silver later today. Thinner was X-20A. I didn't measure the ratio, I just squirted it little by little until it was like whole milk. I'd guess maybe 10 or 15%


Paul Wolcott


#9 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 September 2019 - 03:22 PM

Most videos i've seen say thin acrylics to the consistency of skin milk. We drink 1%, but to be honest, I've never noticed that the butterfat  content of milk makes any difference on how well it flows.The cows don't care either. :laugh2:  When airbrushing Testor enamel, I've seen 1:1 & 2:1 ratios used.


Bill Fernald
 
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