51 replies to this topic

[a914guy]

I've been gathering some Revell 1/24 cars hoping to get enough good parts to put together two representative cars from this same period. I'm guessing these were late '60s kits and probably RTRs, too.

I have the car pictured below and I like it. It runs well on the local track, looks great, and brings back memories of the cars I could only afford to watch run at the local track as a kid.





This particular car is very nice and I'd like to keep it that way and build a couple more cars to compliment it. I'm not a diehard when it comes to originality but I would like to make them period correct if the options are attractive.

So far I've only seen this Lotus 30 body style, a Genie, and a Ford GT40 Spyder and Coupe. Do any of you know if Revell produced this RTR with any other bodies?

TrueScale is probably where I'll go for new bodies.

Thanks for the help!

Rich

[Hworth08]

I've got a couple of those frames and most of the parts including a Red Streak rewound Revell motor. It seems to take me a long time to build factory cars.

I believe Howmet TX makes one or two of the Revell bodies.

[slotbaker]

This SlotBlog thread might be of interest to you.

[TSR]

Hi Rich,

A little history for these. They came in late 1966, a bit too late to be competitive. The idea behind the chassis was to make sure that the heavy motor was fitted in the exact center of mass. Not a bad idea but the problem here is that the motor was simply too big for the car to be anything but uncompetitive with cars using the lower, smaller FT16D motors.

Revell issued the cars in two forms: kits and RTR.

The kits were presented in truly splendid packaging that won Revell an award in the industry. Here is a Ford GT Coupe kit:





The RTR models used a smaller box of the same basic design. Here is the last model produced, a Lola T70:



The cars all had the same chassis but there were wheel and motor variations. The first came with wheels that were machined aluminum with five spokes die-cut from the inner face. These were quickly replaced by die-cast aluminum wheels in two patterns: Halibrand or Shelby Cobra. These wheels were very attractive.
The first motors were painted in silver with the standard Mabuchi "brown-wire" armature, subsequent motors used a nickel-plated can and red-wire armatures.

The kits and RTR models were discontinued at the end of 1967.

Here is the list of what was issued:
Ford GT40 Coupe kit
Ford GT40 Roadster kit
Lotus 30 kit
Lola T70 kit
Genie-Ford kit
Chaparral 2 kit

Ford GT40 Roadster RTR
Ford GT40 Coupe RTR
Lotus 30 RTR
Genie-Ford RTR
Chaparral II RTR
Lola T70 RTR

[TSR]

And to help you out, I posted a couple more kits on the LASCM website today, CLICK HERE.

[a914guy]

Thanks, guys. Great stuff here and it's very helpful in keeping me on track.

The complete car I have must be early. The motor detail and the early wheels match the description. The parts cars are a mix but both are later examples.

My racing days as a kid were done the heartland of central Minnesota. Mostly in my living room and basement. Organized slot car racing didn't push too far out of the major city foot print as I remember.

The first time I saw one of these Revell cars run on the only big track (the only one inside 100 miles) it left an impression. It was lapping on an empty track and when it come out of a bank on to the straight and lifted the front wheels, well, I was amazed! I was nine and the memory still lingers...

And I thought I was having a big time back home with my 6V Eldon's on a slightly-juiced track

Seeing some of the vintage scratchbuild cars of the period and the team cars that have since been documented, there's no question that it was not a "state of the art" design. Still pretty cool by my standards back then.

I've located a NOS original unpainted Revell Lola T70 body (that's pretty amazing) and would love to find a Lotus 30 or a ?? in a roadrace car of the period that would fit the chassis. Maybe a Porsche 906?

Philippe - Do you have a picture or actual example of the Lotus 30?

Hworth08 - Point me in the right direction of the offerings from Howmet TX, if you would. I'll take a look at them, too.

Last question for the night... Is there an OE-like replacement piece for the white plastic drop arm retainer?



Happy Trails!

[TSR]

Rich,

I do not have a picture of the Lotus handy other than the ones on the LASCM website.

The Revell Lotus 30 body comes up for sale quite often, as unpainted, since Revell sold them that way with decals and two drivers.

Your car has several parts that are not original:
1) The guide comes from a Cox Ferrari Dino kit.
2) The front and rear wheels as well as the tires are Riggen bits, and likely came from a BZ Banshee, Ford GT, or Ferrari 275LM.
3) The body is assembled with screws, but originally there was a thin metal clip instead.

Your motor is from the late version of the kit, and the body color indicates also a late version as the early ones were green. Last, the decals on the car are Russkit, from their Porsche 906.

The nylon clip retaining the drop arm is broken as on 90% of these cars, from... stress. The molded part was straight, and only curved for the assembly. After 45 years, few have survived intact.

[Lone Wolf]

PdL,

That Lola is out of this world. Any idea of the color or paint brand Revell used?

Rich, Nice cars. As PdL said, that drop arm clip is rare to find in unbroken condition. I have an NOS parts kit with the drop arm clip, drop arm spring, body clips, knock-offs etc. I don't like to part with these but when I do they bring around $25 plus shipping on eBay. To get your car back on the track I would sell you one for $20 shipped domestic.

Joe





More info HERE.

[TSR]

Joe,

Once the dreaded screws have been fitted, there is no way back as the mounting hols are too enlarged to fit the wire clips...

[Jairus]

Unless he puts on another NOS body.

[a914guy]

Count me in and thanks for the offer! I'd take two kits if you have them and are willing to part with them. Feel free to PayPal me at a914guy@aol.com if that makes it easy for you.

I wonder how hard it would be to fab this type of clip from a white tyewrap?

Philippe - Thanks for the detail on the Lotus. It looks to be a survivor body with a mix of pieces and trim but I'm OK with that. I suspect the front spinners are really rears. Good news is that Joe's kit has both. The issue of the clips vs screws is too bad but not a show stopper for my collection. Most of my cars are nice drivers and most have a scar or two but I still love 'em all.

I wasn't able to find a picture of the Revell Lotus 30 in the LASCM Museum. I looked in Vintage Slot Cars - America - Revell. Did I miss it?

Have a great day, folks!

[TSR]

Unless he puts on another NOS body.

What do you do with the enlarged holes in the chassis?

Rich, the original front axle is straight to accommodate free-wheeling Revell wheels, and the three-prong knock-off is of the blind type, bottoming on a short thread.

At this point, do not worry about a thing, your car cannot ever be brought back to original spec, but it looks fine and is typical of modifs that were attempted by the users in a bid to make the cars better.

I wasn't able to find a picture of the Revell Lotus 30 in the LASCM Museum. I looked in Vintage Slot Cars - America - Revell. Did I miss it?

The only ones there are for the kit, I have not taken pics of the RTRs yet.



On the picture above, you can see the front axle, the Revell specific guide, the Halibrand wheels, and other fine details. If you are able to get an original drop-arm Nylon fastener, may I suggest that you be very careful with it because they have hardened and if you try curving it it will break. Best is to affix one side in a vise, hold the other side with a needle nose set of pliers, and slowly curve it while heating it with a torch, be careful, use the torch very sparingly as Nylon can melt very rapidly. But this it the only way it will not break.

If you get a new body and a set of wire clips, you need to repair the enlarged holes in the chassis Really the only way to do this properly is involved: the manufacturing of four aluminum inserts that will fit inside enlarged but clean holes, held by Cyanocrylate adhesive... hardly worth the trouble.

[a914guy]

That's a winner Jairus!

We'll do something nice with the car this T70 Revell body gets mated to and probably go with an original look with some tastefully added detail so it's obviously not a pretender and has some added character. I think I might ask Mr. Havlicek for some motor tuning as well.

I'm with Joe too. The color of the original #18 car Philippe posted is pretty unique.

[TSR]

Rich,
It is the standard color for this model, the green in the RTR car is actually less pretty but much rarer.



Please note that the kits have decals (not factory installed) while the RTR models have self-adhesive paper stickers, of which the glue eventually bleeds through the paper, making quite a mess. This one has so far escaped that common disaster.

Also please notice the Shelby wheels, that were issued after the Halibrand design, and the blind front-axle knock-offs.
The rear tires are molded foam with the "Firestone" in relief.

[a914guy]

That's a great tip and I'll be very careful with the NOS piece. I'm also looking at the potential to make something to replace this that is more durable. Possibly a similar approach, possible something different.

I think the red Lotus 30 I have will stay as is. The two orphaned chassis I'm working on will get the Lola T70 from Jairus and I may go rogue and put a Porsche 906 body on the second one. So many choices....

[a914guy]

That's a strong green but no surprise given the color trends for the time.

I'd love to come to LA and visit to see some of these cars in person. I'll add that to my bucket list and I'll warn you up front, you'll probably have to kick me out to get rid of me.

[TSR]

"Ve hav vays to keep you underrr kontroll..."

[proptop]

Always liked these asymetrical Revell cars...got a gold Chapparral and a green Genie...

Do you suppose the brittle plastic nylon parts would respond the the boiling in water treatment? I have made some of the old Top Flite white nylon (model airplane) props more pliable, and less prone to breakage by boiling them (low simmer) for about half an hour.

[Martin]

Rich and fellow restorers,
I have made several replacment drop arm retainer clips from the tops of Tamiya areosol spray paint. it is white and the right flex. I cut a strip and then put 2 small screws in at the ends at the correct distance. Looks very factory and will last forever. Hopes this helps keeps these cars alive for now and the future.
The color on these cars is great. It looks like a candy apple put apears to be painted in one shot. Maybe the painting experts here can explain the prosess and or a way to duplicate with paint products sold today.

[Lone Wolf]

Rich, I can give you two sets but don't tell anyone else P.M sent

Tom, I was going to suggest the boiling water method as well. Although I use very hot tap water to start. I heat up tires in hot water and they mount much easier. As far as the holes being enlarged. I use this principle especially on Classic Manta chassis which always seem to have at least one oversize hole.

http://www.micromark...h-set,8010.html

I actually use the rounded end of a small ball peen hammer and a dolly from my body shop days. If the hole is not too big this works well. I was going to drill out a steel ball and tap it 5-40 for an old axle to use as a handle.

[TSR]

Do you suppose the brittle plastic nylon parts would respond the the boiling in water treatment?

Not well. It makes the Nylon harder, meaning more brittle. You need to almost bring it to melting point to change its molecular orientation, so that there is virtually no stress to the curve.

[a914guy]

Not well. It makes the Nylon harder, meaning more brittle. You need to almost bring it to melting point to change its molecular orientation, so that there is virtually no stress to the curve.

Joe and fellow restorers,
I have made several replacment drop arm retainer clips from the tops of Tamiya areosol spray paint. it is white and the right flex. I cut a strip and then put 2 small screws in at the ends at the correct distance. Looks very factory and will last forever. Hopes this helps keeps these cars alive for now and the future.
The color on these cars is great. It looks like a candy apple put apears to be painted in one shot. Maybe the painting experts here can explain the prosess and or a way to duplicate with paint products sold today.

Martin - We think very much alike! I think that is a very simple solution.

[a914guy]

Rich, I can give you two sets but don't tell anyone else P.M sent

Tom, I was going to suggest the boiling water method as well. Although I use very hot tap water to start. I heat up tires in hot water and they mount much easier. As far as the holes being enlarged. I use this principle especially on Classic Manta chassis which always seem to have at least one oversize hole.

http://www.micromark...h-set,8010.html

I actually use the rounded end of a small ball peen hammer and a dolly from my body shop days. If the hole is not too big this works well. I was going to drill out a steel ball and tap it 5-40 for an old axle to use as a handle.

You won't hear a peep from me Joe and the hole shrinking will work on this relatively soft aluminum. The hole size in the red Lotus body is already a little bigger that what the clip type hole would be but I might try the new clips to see how it looks. Good tips - Thanks!

[a914guy]

What do you do with the enlarged holes in the chassis?

Rich, the original front axle is straight to accommodate free-wheeling Revell wheels, and the 3-prong knock-off is of the blind type, bottoming on a short thread.
At this point, do not worry about a thing, your car cannot ever be brought back to original spec, but it looks fine and is typical of modifs that were attempted by the users in a bid to make the cars better.



The only ones there are for the kit, I have not taken pics of the RTRs yet.



On the picture above, you can see the front axle, the revell specific guide, the Halibrand wheels and other fine details. If you are able to get an original drop-arm Nylon fastener, may I suggest that you be very careful with it because they have hardened and if you try curving it it will break. Best is to affix one side in a vise, hold the other side with a needle nose set of pliers, and slowly curve it while heating it with a torch, be careful, use the torch very sparingly as Nylon can melt very rapidly. But this it the only way it will not break.

If you get a new body and a set of wire clips, you need to repair the enlarged holes in the chassis Really the only way to do this properly is involved: the manufacturing of four aluminum inserts that will fit inside enlarged but clean holes, held by Cyanocrylate adhesive... hardly worth the trouble.

Philippe - Keep me in mind if you every see one of these Lotus kits come available or if you feel compelled, I'd be humbled by the gift and can reassure you that I would care for this lovely green Lotus 30 as if it were my only slot car........ If it pushed you over the hump on a decision, did have a birthday this past month

[TSR]

Rich,
I am afraid that I could not help. I am forbidden by contract to collect vintage slot cars, so the only ones I get are for the LASCM. Once in, they don't come out, period...
But I am trying my best to make them enjoyable by all through the www.lascm website, and by live visits and tours for interested parties.
One of these days, construction will be over and we will have a very visitable museum.