53 replies to this topic

[HarV Wallbanger III]

Cleaning them with no load at such a low RPM will not hurt them, John. As soon as they are clean and smooth you re-oil then they are ready to rock. 

With ball bearings you get what you pay for... cheap bearings do not last. I have seen cheap bearings only last one event in a motor and in axles. If you use a good quality bearing they will out-last cheap ones many times. Until you see, feel and hear a good set spun you can not believe the difference. If you hear noise they will not last. 

You can also polish out true oilites this same way to get them smooth and the least amount of friction.

[Gator Bob]

The standard is open for all the about reasons.

 

Open (un-shielded) BB .. consider an 'oil slinger' (if you're going off-roading  )

. .078 on motor or 3/32 /.093 larger ones from padlock motors for the axle.  

put a thin spacer behind so it does not touch the outer race. I only used the 'slinger' on the can drive side with press on pinions

 

see last image -  http://slotblog.net/...le/#entry350142

 

 

Air

 

High School auto shop rule # 8   Falls under 'wheel bearing clean and re-pack'

 

Never spin roller or ball bearings with compressed air.

 

"We did it anyway" stupid.....  Now I spin them up with brakeclean.

 

 Something about 'canned air' reminds me of 'bottled water'  ... 

The 'soda man' used to deliver Seltzer .... Got both in one bottle, AND eco friendly refillable

[MSwiss]

 

 

 

 

Air

 

High School auto shop rule # 8   Falls under 'wheel bearing clean and re-pack'

 

Never spin roller or ball bearings with compressed air.

 

"We did it anyway" stupid.....   

Yeah, I did it a few times with a slot car arm at max. pressure, with whatever an old blow gun, will let out. (150 PSI ? )

 

I never had one fail, but I'm sure some luck was involved.

 

It's extremely entertaining, the high pitched turbine whine.

 

Not sure the RPM, but it sure sounded fast.

 

Bottom line, don't do it.

[Phil Irvin]

I prefer open bearings. The only problem is acid flux when soldering them in. I use a piece of tape to shield the bearing when I solder. I then spray to clean them and oil very lightly. As I clean my motors every third race. I also do the chassis..
 
        OLPHRT
         PHIL I.

[Gator Bob]

Surprised you didn't "throw a wire"

 

If you got the air hitting the stack at the 'right' angle and the brushes were out it was probably spinning faster then it has before.

We need 'air bearing' motors so we can go FASTER  

[MSwiss]

 If you got the air hitting the stack at the 'right' angle and the brushes were out it was probably spinning faster then it has before.

 

 

I had no trouble hitting the right angle.

 

IIRC, I did it with the arm outside the can, spinning it in just one bearing.

 

I guess the fact the BB never blew, was a testimony to the quality.

[Gator Bob]

 

I had no trouble hitting the right angle.

 

IIRC, I did it with the arm outside the can, spinning it in just one bearing.

 

I guess the fact the BB never blew, was a testimony to the quality.

 

Wow .... you are .. way.. lucky you didn't lose any balls ...  lol

[HarV Wallbanger III]

"High School auto shop rule # 8   Falls under 'wheel bearing clean and re-pack'

 

Never spin roller or ball bearings with compressed air. "

 

I agree Bob. The reason is.... with "shop air" you can easily exceed the RPM limits of such a low RPM bearing keeping in mind that this wheel bearing would never see such high RPM's that slot car bearings have to be able to operate at....even in a slow slot car.

 

Potatoes and oranges.....

 

Use canned air and common sense. Just picking up the back end of a slot car and hit the controller will far exceed the RPM that I see cleaning them. Don't do what I do......BANG!    

[Don Weaver]

Barney,

 

What you are overlooking is that in a slot car or any other application for that matter the bearing design is based on the outer race remaining stationary and the inner race rotating.  With the outer race "captured" by the pillow block, tube or bracket it cannot expand and thus "release" the spinning balls.  It doesn't matter if the inner race expands since the balls and outer race ID limit its expansion.  Spinning the bearing with the inner race stationary and the outer race rotating in free air (instead of being constrained) is simply inviting a disaster.  I have seen the consequences of an exploded bearing and it's ugly.  I won't caution you anymore, I just hope you're lucky if one ever does let loose.  For all the rest of you, please don't do it.......

 

Don Weaver

[HarV Wallbanger III]

Here is what I said Don:

"I blow-spin the bearings with a old arm with air and flush if using in a motor and axles. I do the same using a gear on the axle then again flush."

 

Don, what you are overlooking is the outer race weather in the motor or in a chassis IS "captured"..... Did I say I cleaned them outside a "captured" environment?  No I put a old arm in setup and spin it up with canned air. I do the same with a chassis and axle and gear in it that has BB's.

 

This is getting funny ...... Please go on...

[Jairus]

The processor on my computer died Friday morning.
So I have been off-line sort of since then and till new parts arrive... have to depend on the generosity of friends, but that's not the reason for my post.

I was working on a Hard Body NASCAR project yesterday and while messing with the rear axle ball bearing installation I learned two things.

#1 The German made ball bearings I use are shielded and packed with a high quality grease.  I know this because I removed the shield.

 

#2 The shields are easy to remove and re-install if need be!

 

Ha! Take that "bearing know it all's".

 

Seems there is a small "C" keeper that holds the shield in place. That "C" ring keeper is flat and easy to remove with a #11 exacto blade, but you might need a pair of 10x magnifier glasses to do so.  Once the keeper is carefully removed the shield can be pried off. The bearing can then be cleaned and re-packed or left off all together.
If one doesn't destroy (bend) any of the components, one can re-assemble the item for full long life of use.

This I learned on the bearings I source from Ralph Klose and have sold to many Slot Blog members here.  Though, I am getting low on supplies of late. 

 

P.S. My Hard Body NASCAR is running 4 1/8" rear axle ball bearings since the damn thing is pushing the scales at 280g!  Can you imagine the forces applied to the tires and bearings at those speeds?

 

Hope to have my computer back by Thursday by the way.

[dc-65x]

Hi Jairus,

 

Where are you getting your German ball bearings from?

 

The ProSlot bearings with shields I had didn't have the little C-clip but were pressed in. I wasn't very successful removing them.

 

The VBX 1/8 x 1/4 single shields have the little C-clip and I could pop them right out as you did. But there probably not made in Germany! I imagine they're made by local villagers squatting in a hut on the island of Kill-a-ming-pongo

[Pablo]

"The German made ball bearings I use are shielded and packed with a high quality grease"

 

Given that, do you really think you need to remove it ?

Do you think an Acetone bath without shield removal would work ?

 

Thanks for your experience, Jairus  

[Jairus]

 

Where are you getting your German ball bearings from?

 

 

My friend and customer "Ralph Klose". He is some sort of local distributor of industrial products. He sometimes asks to pay in product... in this case was a gross of 1/8" and 3/32" ball bearings. I have been using them for many years and selling them for the last year. 

 

"The German made ball bearings I use are shielded and packed with a high quality grease"

 

Given that, do you really think you need to remove it ?

Do you think an Acetone bath without shield removal would work ?

 

 

This grease would need to be removed by pulling the shields first. But then.... what's the benefit? The grease allows smooth operation and long life.  I have been installing them in my proxy cars, race cars and project for years with NO failures.

[Bill from NH]

Using an ultrasonic cleaner with the acetone or another degreaser will clean the oil & grease from a shielded bearing. We would clean out shielded GRW 6 mm X 2 mm motor bearings this way before soldering them in a can to eliminate the possibility of annealing the bearing. I've never soldered in axle bearings, only used a Loctite Retaining Compound, nor seen a reason for cleaning out their grease. I've got 40 yr. old installed axle bearings that still spin freely.

[Pablo]

Bill, it appears you are contradicting yourself. 

"Using an ultrasonic cleaner with the acetone or another degreaser will clean the oil & grease from a shielded bearing. We would clean out shielded GRW 6 mm X 2 mm motor bearings this way

then

"nor seen a reason for cleaning out their grease"

Please clarify, Sir.

[Old pink can guy]

Pablo Brake Kleen from Pep girls or Any one Auto Zone Will do the trick just make sure it's the one in the red can not the green one it has Chlorine in it thust me. I did auto repair for 32 years.

[Bill from NH]

Bill, it appears you are contradicting yourself. 

"Using an ultrasonic cleaner with the acetone or another degreaser will clean the oil & grease from a shielded bearing. We would clean out shielded GRW 6 mm X 2 mm motor bearings this way

then

"nor seen a reason for cleaning out their grease"

Please clarify, Sir.

 

No contradiction. We cleaned out motor bearings with a degreaser in an ultrasonic cleaner. Since I didn't & still don't solder in axle bearings, I had no need to clean them likewise.

 

I put the bearings in a small glass jar filled with degreaser. I then put this jar in the ultrasonic cleaner's tank which was filled with water. Since ultrasonic waves travel through glass the same as a liquid, this eliminated the need to use a tank full of degreaser to clean a pair of bearings.

[Pablo]

So, you de-greased them in an ultrasonic cleaner, yet had no need to de-grease them.

?????? 

[Bill from NH]

Go back & re-read my posts & you'll find I said I degreased the motor bearings but not the axle bearings.This was done because I soldered in motor bearings, but glued in axle bearings. I won't further confuse you by stating what I did with flanged motor meaings when they became available.

[Old pink can guy]

Bill we did not have them In the Golden years. What were you thinking?

[Bill from NH]

Ken, what are you missing now????? What were you missing when?????

[Pablo]

Aha, Bill, I realize my mistake now.  I have motor BB's on my mind so much lately, I didn't see the words

I hereby don my dunce cap for 15 minutes and stand in the corner

What you said, makes perfect sense now.

[Gator Bob]

Pablo Brake Kleen from Pep girls or Any one Auto Zone Will do the trick just make sure it's the one in the red can not the green one it has Chlorine in it thust me. I did auto repair for 32 years.

 

The best degreaser going... IMO. 

 

BTW: wouldn't greased BBs have more drag then cleaned and (light) oiled?

 

I degrease to Loctite BB's in.

Degrease and then add one drop of oil before soldering to keep from getting flux in it. ... No?

Edited by Bob Israelite, 27 May 2013 - 03:14 PM.

[Old pink can guy]

Bob If it works why mess it up? Ken.