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Something for the vintage guys


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#1 Rick

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 03:07 PM

I was going to post this in the Vintage Parts area, then decided to throw it in here. Greg can move accordingly? This is a long time coming project, maybe two years in the making. It took a lot longer to have it come to something I could show, and this is just to see if there any interest, in the first place.

 

So anyway, here it is! A long brass drop arm for Dynamic chassis pieces. A picture, they say, is worth a 1,000 words. This is first off and some tweaking is still needed to be ready to start doing more, but damn close now.

 

Comments and suggestions encouraged. No price set yet.

 

IMG_1015.JPG

 

IMG_1014.JPG


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#2 Pablo

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 04:15 PM

How strong are they compared to a stock piece ?

Is the tongue height same as stock ?

One major problem I always seem to have is, the screw holes don't line up for the exact WB I want, and I have to settle for a WB that is too long or too short, instead of "just right" ....... Does this piece fix that ?


Paul Wolcott


#3 Rick

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 05:23 PM

How strong are they compared to a stock piece ?

REAL strong, being .050 formed brass. Very rigid and nice and flat.

Is the tongue height same as stock ?

Modern guide flags will work well. I have to compare to the stock one, but I am IIRC it is deeper. This is Something I am working on, right now, to fine tune, the offset die set.

One major problem I always seem to have is, the screw holes don't line up for the exact WB I want, and I have to settle for a WB that is too long or too short, instead of "just right" ....... Does this piece fix that ?

It should address that problem and since I am making them, you could designate where you would like some extra slot. :)


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#4 Pablo

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 05:46 PM

Thanks for the answers, looks like you have a great new product.  I'm onboard; I need some.


Paul Wolcott


#5 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 05:49 PM

Certainly looks the part Rick :)

Maybe not only self designated slot but being strong/thick brass a little elongating of a slot by file or dremel would do the fine tuning trick.

#6 Jairus

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 05:50 PM

I'd like a couple.

...three actually, when you are done tweeking.
Ready at the paypal "make payment" button.


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#7 Samiam

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 05:57 PM

:) :) WOW :good:

 

Sign me up for 5 when they are ready to ship.


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#8 Gator Bob

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Posted 03 August 2013 - 09:32 PM

For consideration:

 

Lower coined height.

Slots closer matching to OEM brass part, no single screw hole at rear. 

Wider flange at screw base.

On the OEM part pan head screws are provided and they do not seat properly.

Or a more narrow flange radius to accept the flat head screws as used on the cast version. 


Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#9 Rick

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 12:54 AM

The original part should use 4-40 flat heads and they fit real fine, and they fit this version real nice. :)


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#10 Hworth08

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 09:31 AM

How strong are they compared to a stock piece ?

Is the tongue height same as stock ?

One major problem I always seem to have is, the screw holes don't line up for the exact WB I want, and I have to settle for a WB that is too long or too short, instead of "just right" ....... Does this piece fix that ?

 

No doubt Rick's is stronger that the original that was quite flimsy.

 

If it's wrong make the tongue height too tall, that can corrected.

 

On the original brass piece the slot closest to the guide is one inch long.  Can't tell about the rear, all I have have been cut off.


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#11 mdiv

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 11:49 AM

Rick,

Looks good!  I'd definitely be interested in a couple.  

 

Screws that could work well are from Fastenal, 4-40, binding head, stainless steel.

 

I've played around with the originals, and once Buzzy opened up a box that had newspapers from 1966 as packing material.  I bought 10 from him.  I have some in my parts drawer that I've cut down to size for cars but took them apart.  I was never really happy with them, but maybe this 0.050 could do the trick.

 

The coined guide flag section looks interesting.  In my upcoming builds I plan to use Cox and/or Gold Cup guides.

 

Thanks for coming out with something for us Vintage Guys! :)

Mikey


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#12 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 01:31 PM

Here is the original part.

The thicker brass and possibly an undercut flathead should work great. The higher coin height could be compensated with spacers so that should not be an issue as these vintage builds don't normally get totally slammed bodies. WTG Rick.. :good:

 

IMG_2406s.jpg

 

IMG_2404s.jpg


Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#13 Rick

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 02:36 PM

Here's a couple more pictures to evaluate. I'm absorbing everything you guys are saying, I want it to be correct. This one has the offset about the same as an original unit.

 

I used regular 4-40 Phillips flat heads, they seemed to work nicely.

 

IMG_1016.JPG

IMG_1017.JPG


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#14 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 03:05 PM

Looking even better with the original parts bolted on :D Really great product Rick , definitely have a few from You when they're ready :)



#15 Jairus

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 03:33 PM

Rick,

Like what you a have done so far.  If you are considering other re-manufactured bits...  this is on my list.
IMG_1306-vi.jpg

It's easier to make than the tongue you just created and much harder to find.
IMG_1308-vi.jpg

I hand made 4 or 5 of them so far...
  ... but this is the first real one I've seen.


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#16 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 03:49 PM

only ever seen 2 of these for auction lately.. That's it, looks a very nice tongue for the Dynamic chassis :)



#17 Rick

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 02:19 PM

Ok Jairus, here you go!...............

IMG_1018.JPG

 

Samples going out today, waiting for your check and response.................


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#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 03:25 PM

Rick, nice looking product! The flat head screws go in from the bottom. This one seems to have the screw holes beveled on the top side.


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#19 Rick

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 03:29 PM

It looks like that but must be an optical illusion, the offset is correct?


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#20 Hworth08

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 07:30 PM

The slot closest to the guide really needs to be at least one inch long as the original. The front axle bracket in post #13 is and early version that used one screw. Most of the brackets used two mounting screws that makes adjusting the wheelbase more difficult as Pablo mentioned.

 

The guide lead on the new piece is a fair amount longer the factory also. If period correct is important many of the '67 and earlier bodies will have the guide exposed with that much lead.


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#21 Jairus

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 10:04 PM

Yeah... the offset is on the wrong side Rick.  Other than that....  :good:


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#22 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 August 2013 - 10:28 PM

I can see how it might be an optical illusiion on my part. Rick, do you have another photo of it you can post?


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#23 Rick

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 09:38 AM

I will have to make another, I sent that one off for evaluation. See if it needs more offset or not. Right now it matches the offset of an original Dynamic cast one. Now we wait for feedback..................


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#24 Rick

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 10:00 AM

Don, that is the absolute minimum to allow the guide to swing, unless you want no offset?


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#25 Rick

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 03:35 PM

Ok, made another for you to view.

 

IMG_1031.JPG

IMG_1032.JPG


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