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Champion's finest endbell - story of "EB-1" 1968


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#1 TSR

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 07:39 PM

When the Mabuchi brothers launched their FT16 and FT36 motors in 1963, they created a little revolution in the burgeoning  slot car racing world. The new Mabuchi motors, while not being more powerful than the conventional, open-frame type motors previously used in model-train locomotives, manufactured by Pittman or other companies in the USA and Japan, were considerably lighter than the veritable boat anchors available until then. The difference was not in raw speed, but in cornering, where the lightweight simply smoked the cars fitted with the heavyweights.

 

As speeds slowly increased, as rewinds became more radical, heat became a serious factor. The Mabuchi endbells, made of Delrin, had a fairly low melting point. Generally speaking, what was happening under stress and the very unclean power of many tracks using a battery charger to feed the lanes, was a slow melting of the endbells, moving the brush holders, causing the brush springs to melt into their posts and eventually causing the most dramatically spectacular failures, as well as terribly smelly ones.

The first attempts to address this was the fitment of metal sleeves over the spring posts, that helped the springs to keep their composure. The first know commercial examples of these were seen on the Dyna-Rewind motors concocted by motor genius and GM engineer Ted Lech. It will take a full year for the "major" motor rewinders, Mura and Champion, to catch up with those details. However this did not stop the endbells from melting.

 

Nest step was the very intelligent design of a completely new endbell for their "700" series motors (the BIG Mabuchi FT36D) by Champion of Chamblee. The brush holders used pent-roof "hats" to keep them in place, and the design worked well enough, for a while, but even the Cycolac plastic eventually melted. A similar endbell was introduced in 1967 for their "500" series of rewinds.

Meanwhile by early 1968, the folks at Mura had made a new endbell mold and produced them in a gray plastic that was more heat resistant, but still melted under the stress of bigger armature wire, now up to 25 AWG. Later that year, a revision of the failing motors produced the first phenolic plastic endbell, the famous "Mura-Cukras" motors now benefiting of the design also featuring the Champion style pent-roof design.

 

Competition was now fierce between the two companies, and by September 1968, Champion produced their response to the new Mura M400-series motors in the form of  the "535" and "545" series of new motors. These came in plain black, or as "Bob Cozine Signature" specials designed to counter the "John Cukras" signed motors offered by Mura.

These new Champion motors had a new phenolic plastic endbell, one that is quite scarce today. It was supplied to the Champion folks by a company called United Commercial Co., a manufacturers representative in Japan. I recently analyzed an unused sample, called "EB-1", now at the LASCM.

I always knew that this was the first commercially available, Mabuchi-size endbell using machine screws instead of the self-tapping kind, to hold the brush holders and other ancillaries to the endbell.
 

Amazingly, I found something that escaped me in the past, than this endbell is fitted with threaded metal inserts in no less than FOUR places on two planes, as well as an armature bearing insert! I always thought that the machine screws were simply bolted directly to the plastic.

One has to understand that until this time, all Mabuchi and clones endbells used self-tapping screws to hold their brush holders and to attach the motor to the rear-axle bracket. That in turn, caused a deformation of the endbell and some misalignment of the armature bearing and brush holders, not something one wants to have on a top-flight motor.

The new endbell addressed all these concerns, as each plated brass insert was first hand fitted inside the mold, than the black plastic was injected around the inserts. In other words, a very costly process that required lots of operator skill and time. But what a beautiful product!

Below are pictures of the only two motors that used the "magic" endbell, the Champion "535" and "Bob Cozine Signature" motors:

 

545_cozine_box.jpg

 

champion_535_2.jpg

 

champion_535_Cozine_1.jpg

 

I do not know another example in the whole slot car racing history of such an elaborate plastic endbell... for me, it represents the finest of Champion's 1960s products, when the motor situation came to at last, provide stability and reliability in the product, instead of the regular hand grenades used until then. The next step would be the smaller C-can, a revolution in itself.

 

champion_eb-1.jpg

 

The separate sintered bronze bushing fits inside a plated brass insert itself molded directly in the plastic.

 

champion_eb-1_1.jpg

 

All the mounting points including the can to endbell tiny 0-80 mounts receive a plated brass insert!

 

champion_eb-1_2.jpg

 

The two endbell to rear-axle bracket mounting points also receive threaded inserts, causing no bearing or brush holder misalignment, previously experienced with self-tapping screws.
 

champion_eb-1_3.jpg

 

Shortly after these now scarce pieces were issued, Champion had new tooling made for yet another new endbell, that unfortunately went backwards, using a brass plate on which the armature bearing was soldered, screwed onto the endbell with self-tapping screws. The molding was too thin in the threaded area, causing the self-tapping screws to quickly pull the threads. This was the famous "Orange Picker" endbell, that will be inflicted on all new Champion production "16D" sized motors until the advent of the C-can.

 

champion_5526.jpg

 

Why did Champion abandon such a great endbell to replace it by something less than satisfactory? The only reasonable explanation would be to reduce manufacturing costs. But what a shame! In fact in many ways, the PREVIOUS Cycolac endbell used in the "507-R", "517" and "525" motors was a much better enbbell, one that only needed to be made of more heat-resistant plastic to be an excellent replacement. It was not to be....

 

:(


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#2 SlotStox#53

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 07:53 PM

Wow, only ever known about or seen the Orange Picker with the separate brass bearing/mounting plate. That endbell with the molded-in plate and threaded inserts everywhere is just amazing!

Have a Champion 507R and love the endbell, plus got a white endbell that's later than the 507 and came with the black I think 535 can with DZ mags and two-piece shim. The brush hardware has the brush holder soldered together and the wire tabs are like the Orange picker etc pictured with the round tab with hole in the middle.

#3 TSR

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 08:31 PM

I just had an email from Bob Rule confirming my speculations, and now there is a final answer coming up here: the parts for the "American made" Champion motors, AKA the 517 through the 545, the 617... were also supplied by the same Japanese company! One learns every day. ^_^

So since we have a whole bunch of samples at the LASCM, including cans, endbells, stacks, magnet shims, C-cans, ALL coming from United Commercial, it means that all these "American" products we thought were domestic, were in fact made in Japan, and this from 1966 through 1977!

So much for domestic pride.

The Mura cans and endbells were made in the USA, even if the Mura family was of Japanese ancestry!  :)
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#4 SlotStox#53

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 10:40 PM

So is this one of the last big slot car mysteries now solved, Philippe? Many more left to solve? :shok: :laugh2:

#5 usadar

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 10:53 PM

Philippe-san,

Champion was able to import their motor parts from Japan because our currency, Yen, was much weaker against US Dollar: $1 equaled 360 Yen; now it is like $1 equals 97 Yen.

When I first visited the States in 1969, we were allowed by a Japanese law to carry only $200 per person to the States. All possible travel expenses such as hotel fares in the States were pre-paid in Japan to save the dollars to be used in the States.

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#6 TSR

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 08:51 AM

Yes indeed, cost had a big part in it, but also the true talent of postwar Japan industry. Haruki, as you know, I am a big collector of Japanese tin toys, and their only equals on the planet are the tin toys made in Germany in the same time. The quality of their engineering and execution, their beauty as toys for children is simply amazing.

And yes, I am of course aware that a large part of American slot cars parts of the 1960s were sourced in either Japan or Hong Kong, but in the case of the Champion motors, long-touted "American made", it was quite a surprise to me and it took me that long to nail their origin, thanks to samples acquired from the Carl Ford collection and a simple email from Bob Rule that suddenly tied the knots!

This will cause more pages in my already too-thick book!  :shok:  :dash2:
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#7 Gator Bob

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Posted 29 December 2013 - 06:32 PM

Dokk,

Are they 2/56 inserts? :umnik2:
 
Maybe the whole "bushing in a plate" thing started out as a way to hold the threaded inserts in place during the molding process. :unknw:
 
What book? :boredom:  :laugh2:
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                            Bob Israelite

#8 TSR

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Posted 29 December 2013 - 07:15 PM

Are they 2/56 inserts ? :umnik2:

 
There are four: two 2-56 for holding the endbell to the motor bracket, and two 0-80 to hold the can to the endbell. Curiously there are none for the brush-holder retaining plates...
 

Maybe the whole "bushing in a plate" thing started out as a way to hold the threaded inserts in place during the molding process. :unknw:

 
Who knows?


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#9 Champion 507

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 12:49 AM

I've got one of those Cozine endbells.
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#10 Gator Bob

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Posted 01 September 2015 - 02:12 AM

And yes, I am of course aware that a large part of American slot cars parts of the 1960s were sourced in either Japan or Hong Kong, but in the case of the Champion motors, long-touted "American made", it was quite a surprise to me and it took me that long to nail their origin, thanks to samples acquired from the Carl Ford collection and a simple email from Bob Rule that suddenly tied the knots!

 
Big disappointment.
 
Back to the Pittman and Ram motors..


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#11 DOCinCanton

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Posted 28 September 2015 - 04:28 PM

I remember these Champion motors and raced with them. In the '60s and being an independent, I could race with what I could afford and thought was the best.


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#12 Phil Smith

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Posted 05 June 2018 - 07:36 PM

I'm a veintage Champion motor fan, and I am the proud owner of a Bob Cozine signature motor. Very clean but unfortunately it's soldered to the chassis on the can end. :-(

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  • CozineMotor.jpg

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#13 TSR

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 11:48 AM

Phil,
that's cool. This is a late series, likely a "545" as it has indentations on the can to center the endbell. This mod was only used in the last series of these motors.

You can carefully remove the motor, then heat tha spot where the solder is and "shake it off" or transfer as much as possible to a braided copper sink dipped in soldering paste (not acid!)
Then you can gently file or shave the spot clean of solder remains, and touch up with semi gloss black paint.
You can also unsolder the lead wires and clean up the motor with water based solvent, then dry it up with pressured air.

If you want to reuse it in a car for display, just use the machine screws...


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#14 Phil Smith

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 12:25 PM

Thanks Philippe! I have some solder wick. I think I like the shake and heat suggestion better. I'll try to clean it up as you suggest.


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#15 zipper

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Posted 06 June 2018 - 12:59 PM

Heat and blow - that's my system to get rid of most solder.


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#16 Phil Smith

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 10:58 AM

Blow with an air compressor?


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#17 TSR

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 02:18 PM

Yes. Good pressure for mechanical parts, motors and chassis, mild pressure for bodies and body parts.
Now, better wear thin surgical gloves when drying an assembled motor, because you are going to be astounded by the amount of crap that will come out of it. In fact I suggest several successive dips in the solvent ("Mineral Spirits") and blow dry after each dip until only clean solvent comes out. Then, a droplet of oil on each bearing and that thing will be like new, unless the brushes have run their course. All these Champion motors, ("501" through "545", "Group 7", "Group 20" etc. have the smaller Mabuchi "FT16D" brushes, so they wear fast. Replacement brushes are getting more difficult to find, and the Champion brushes with pigtail even more.


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#18 Horsepower

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 09:19 PM

Will this info be in the new book that's coming out any day now?


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#19 Phil Smith

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 11:13 PM

That's never going to happen, Gary. That's why I shut up about it.

 

It would benefit everyone, especially Philippe, if he would accept one of the many offers he's received to help him finish the book. But Philippe always turns them down.

 

Better a completed collaboration than nothing at all, Philippe.


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#20 Horsepower

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Posted 10 June 2018 - 11:02 AM

Yeah Phil, I'm a BIG fan but even I am beginning to lose hope.I also know him to be a man of his word so I'm still gonna keep the faith.


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#21 TSR

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Posted 11 June 2018 - 11:15 AM

Keep the faith.  :)


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#22 Phil Hackett

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 01:23 PM

Keep the faith.  :)

 

Off-topic.... is the book self-published or is there a publisher you're working with?


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#23 TSR

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Posted 12 June 2018 - 08:22 PM

Phil,
it is Scott's decision. The book is done and has been signed off for quite a while, and pretty is much ready to go to a professional "book builder", but the construction and setting of the museum has taken its toll on time. And we are not done yet.
Again, I had to cut a lot off the printed version because of space. As an example, the 50-page listing of production kits and RTRs will be found online, as it takes too much space. The "pro racing" chapter had to be chopped quite a bit, but will survive in the printed version.
We can also only print 750 pictures, and obviously it is cutting short a lot of things, as there could easily be 10000 pictures and that still would never be enough.
Not easy to write a book like that, VS the usual "catalog with price guide" of a single brand or a limited subject.
 


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#24 idare2bdul

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 11:21 PM

The Winchester House in California was buit by an heiress that thought if she kept adding on to it she wouldn't die. Not sure PDL is using that for his book but but I paid to get in to the Winchester House and plan to buy his book.


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#25 TSR

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Posted 29 July 2018 - 01:24 PM

:laugh2:

I am simply waiting until all the guys who could argue the facts are all dead, so I will have peace and quiet.


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