77 replies to this topic

[Guy Spaulding]

Those $400 presses have chuck that will close down to nothing. Buying a good chuck ain't cheap.... and when you do you'd better know what taper the press spindle is... if you can the old one off. If it's threaded you're "threaded".

That's why the chuck I recommended costs as much as the press.  It too closes down to 0", and adds the convenience of keyless operation.  Of course, I wouldnt expect the press to have the accuracy of the $400 model, but now we have options ranging from $100 to $400+ for the buyer to choose from.

[Phil Hackett]

Look around and you find these.... and it's not the $300 new but it's most likely 95% new and at greatly reduced price... and it doesn't really take up that much space.

 

Yes, the chuck closes down to 0...

 

Floor Model Drill Press

[Samiam]

In case everyone didn't know.....Harbor Freight has 25% off any one item coupons you print off the internet.

[SlotStox#53]

Yep on their mailing  list Sam , so saw the "Big Sale Coupons" would get one of these very dohickies but needed to buy more car parts first

[Pablo]

Need advice from Harbor Freight drill press owners !

Owners manual does not have instructions on how to install the chuck ???

HF technical support both phone and website are all jammed up.

[Rick]

just push it on and a light tap, should never come off again. clean stub and inside the chuck............

[Tex]

Yeah, I did something like Rick says... put it on hand snug and give it a light rap with a hammer. Mine's still on and I must've drilled at least a DOZEN holes with it!

 

Seriously, it's still on and shows no signs of loosening up. I agree that the manual(if you want to call it that) leaves a bit to be desired.

[Pablo]

Thanks guys. One rap with a hammer did the trick just like you said

She's all set up. Double through bolted to the table

Pin vice held secure with C clamps.

Holy Cow, this thing really vibrates. I hope it drills better than it sounds

[Tex]

I put at least one bolt through each of those two long slots. I think having all your bolts concentrated around the main vertical column/riser(forget the official term) has something to do with the vibration; I "think" having the bolts spread out in a wider pattern should yield less vibration.

[Pablo]

I concur with your theory but I turned it on and held down the front end as tight as I could, no change.  It is plenty secure the way it is, and the vibration is coming from the belt area, not the motor. No biggie. I'm not going to be using it 8 hours a day ya know

[Rick]

Those step belts( Harbor Freight has these too) may remove much of the vibration, they are leather and small pieces all tied together and you just make it the length you need. With no belt, is there still vibration? could also be the pulley on the quill needs a little better balance? Check that. You could static balance like an arm. My little Sears has very little vibration even on fastest speed.....

[Pablo]

All the vibration is in the belt area.

It's a $70 drill press. I'll just live with it.

[Phil Hackett]

The tapers used on drill presses is a self-locking taper. Just clean both the spindle and the chuck and then press (or tap) them together. Remember, these tapers will hold as long as you apply pressure inline with the spindle but enough (it's hard to estimate) side pressure (think of using an end mill on the side) will cause the chuck to come off. Guaranteed.

 

As for the unsticking chuck from one of the previous posts: you most likely have a bad chuck taper. It needs to be "right-on" to work so if the taper is just a tiny bit "fast" or "slow" it won't stay on. I had one of those and had to replace it with a genuine Jacobs chuck. Before I did I tried just about everything you can think of, up to JB Welding the thing on. If it's that far off I can't have the thing ejecting itself from the spindle at 3600 rpms. It's safety hazard at that point.

[Rick]

Pablo, if the vibration as bad as you state, a little static balance should be in order, it'll knock the bearings out of it possibly. All of the Asian cheap stuff needs a little tweaking............

[Pablo]

It's not really that bad. I'm sure I can improve it in time.

Thanks for the advice. As time goes by I'll become one with the tool....

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

 

I'm sorry if I missed this but are you running your baby at full tilt boogie RPM's?

[Pablo]

I just set it up, and have not mastered the fine points yet. The RPMs are set on the factory supplied settings.

Whatever that is. I know I can change the RPM's by changing the belt location on the pulleys.

Are you suggesting I have it on too high RPM's ?

What RPM's do y'all recommend ?

[dc-65x]

Maybe Pablo it would be happier at a lower RPM. What are your choices and what is it set on?

 

I know that the small holes we drill should be done at higher cutting speeds but.......for "little toy cars" I run my belt drive mill (glorified drill press) at 600 RPM. I've built ALL my cars using that speed.

[Pablo]

I hear ya. I will check into it.

I"m about spent for the day

[Pablo]

Rick, it's set at 1630. I'll try 760 and see what happens.

[triggerman]

Those step belts( Harbor Freight has these too) may remove much of the vibration, they are leather and small pieces all tied together and you just make it the length you need. With no belt, is there still vibration? could also be the pulley on the quill needs a little better balance? Check that. You could static balance like an arm. My little Sears has very little vibration even on fastest speed.....

Paul,
Congratulations on the purchase of your new tool! I tried the Harbor Freight linked belt on a floor standing drill press. I had to return it because it was too thick and slipped in the pulley grooves.

The stock belts will take a set if not used for extended periods of time. Running them for an extended period will heat them up and might smooth out some of that vibration.

Speaking of vibration, try running the motor after removing both belts. If you still get the vibration, there is not much you can do but return the drill press and take your chances that a new one will be better.

[Pablo]

I tried that, Dale, the motor is smooth. The belt system is what causes the vibes.

As Rick T. suggested, I reduced the speed to 760, and now it's a lot more quiet and smooth.

I am good to go. Now all I have to do is build, and practice with it.

I plan to practice drilling balancing holes on old arms.

[MSwiss]

Pablo,

I'm not sure if someone like Rick T already went over this with you, but if you are planing to get half serious drilling arms,

and nailing them in the center, so they don't throw lams, get someone with a milling machine to make you up something like the below.

 

 

You'll chuck it up in your machine vise, and it'll allow you to rotate the arm, and slide the arm back and forth, keeping it in the centerline.

Attached Images

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[SlotStox#53]

Good to hear you have reduced the vibration Pablo Neat little tool Mike can see it being very handy for drilling the arms

[MSwiss]

Thanks, Paul.

 

The trick is to have the space in the middle wide enough to be able move the widest arm you have, all the way to the right and left most points on the stack you'll  drill, but still make sure the arm shaft stays anchored on both sides, in the 2MM notches.