60 replies to this topic

[mdiv]

I like the kit idea.

I can solder. Sure I can. Ugh it's been a while but I used to solder SMT components onto PCB board.

My problem is I can't cut! I cut two lengths of brass tubing and one looked good and the other looked like Penne!

I'll welcome the kit.

[Noose]

That's the idea: to allow manufacturers to produce parts for builders as cheaply as possible.

I agree and having a kit with all the stuff in it is a great way to get guys into this. Remember what I said at the Sano, scratchbuilding is not an entry level. At least having a kit gives guys a chance to take a stab at it without having to buy Dremels, saws, etc.

[mdiv]

The Dremel is not a bad investment even if you're never going to cut brass sheet.

I got mine and I quickly found many uses, vintage and non-vintage. I clean all my old rusty threaded axles by sticking 'em in the dremel, whirring it up, and pressing the axle against sandpaper. Gives an awesome shine! Similarly on my Flexi (uh oh, hehe) I opened the oilites after they were soldered in to get a smoother-turning axle.

The kit will definitely make the class more open to people that just can't nibble or cut straight.

[Bill from NH]

Here you go. I've had this same Weller 200/260 watt since '67.

Mark,

I built my first chassis in 1967 with one of those only because I hadn't heard of an Ungar. This same gun was in with some of my dad's tools I brought home this past summer. I don't know what I'll use it for but it's here.

[Pappy]

The Ungar I just bought at Grainger is unbelievable. I used Ted Melton's at the Sano and decided I had to have one. It's much better than the 100 watt Inland soldering irons I've been using, plus the tip is smaller and I'm making better looking solder joints. It's the only one I've seen that goes to 1,000 degrees.

But I have to warn you, it's a little pricey. $86 with tax.

[Bill from NH]

But I have to warn you, it's a little pricey. $86 with tax.

Pappy, what model did you get? I use the blue 7770 cool handle with a 50 watt iron clad tip. Tips were $4.95 when I first bought this, now they're around $50. I bought a Hakko 5 or 6 yrs. ago, tried it, but went back to my Ungar because it's better balanced & feels better in my hands.

[Pappy]

Bill

This is not a particular model. You buy the handle, the heating element you want and the tip you want and screw it all together. There are about four different tips you can get. Tips cost about $6.50. If you don't have a catalog I can post parts numbers if you need them.

[MG Brown]

Pappy: I prefer the Ungar also (Weller bought them out a few years ago). I still have the "clean room" iron I bought back in the 70's and it still works just fine. With some care it should be a lifelong companion and the only iron you should ever need (although about a year ago I bought a second Ungar so that I have one on my home workbench and one in my traveling toolbox).

Wassco is a company that specializes in soldering equipment and supplies.

Go to their web site and ask them to send you a catalog- you will be glad that you did.

Ungar/Weller sells a huge number of tips and heating elements for their irons (as well as useful accessories). The heating element/tip that you mentioned is the one most popular for slot racing.

I'd highly suggest that you get the variable workstation and holder pictured below:



You can dial back the heat when the iron is not in use to extend the life of the element and the tip.

Next step (if you haven't already done this) is to find a small squeeze bottle (I use one that camera lens cleaning fluid came in) and go to your local auto radiator repair shop. Ask them for the liquid flux that they use for repairing radiators. This is good stuff that will help you make beeee u ti ful solder joints. In bulk this flux is quite cheap but some places sell it by the ounce at "Starbucks" prices and slap a label on it (the label costs more than the flux). Most radiator repair shops will give you some for free. Try it and you will like it!

[Ron Hershman]

Next step (if you haven't already done this) is to find a small squeeze bottle (I use one that camera lens cleaning fluid came in) and go to your local auto radiator repair shop. Ask them for the liquid flux that they use for repairing radiators. This is good stuff that will help you make beeee u ti ful solder joints. In bulk this flux is quite cheap but some places sell it by the ounce at "Starbucks" prices and slap a label on it (the label costs more than the flux). Most radiator repair shops will give you some for free. Try it and you will like it!

What you get in a radiator shop is more like straight acid, while "Stay Brite" flux is "watered down" acid flux. When using the radiator shop stuff MAKE SURE you rinse it off and run water down your pipes for a longer time as that stuff will eat plumbing in a hurry.

[Pappy]

Thanks for the tips, MG. Is the flux like Stay Bright silver solder flux or is it better?

[Noose]

Here is a good link to obtain Stay Brite stuff:

Stay Brite Flux & Solder