Help needed for Cox Ford GT40
#1
Posted 29 April 2014 - 06:47 AM
I trying to attach the pickup arm to the chassis and the instructions say that after inserting the brass tube through the chassis that a nut and bolt are used, it's used to keep the tube in place. I missing this nut and bolt.
What I need to know is the size and length of the bolt (looks like it would be 2/56 because it has to be small enough to fit inside the brass tube) and is there anything special about this bolt or is it just a regular pan head bolt and plated nut.
I also need 1 pickup braid and one of the 2/56 knockoffs that are used for tapered axles. Anyone have a source for these items besides ebay, I would appreciate the heads-up.
Thanks in advance for any help.
#2
Posted 29 April 2014 - 08:59 AM
The few chassis I have worked on, the brass tube is a press fit and didn't need a bolt.
But I have some braid and a knock-off I can send you.
Do you require any gears or nylon bearings?
Edited by Cheater, 29 April 2014 - 10:17 AM.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#3
Posted 29 April 2014 - 09:44 AM
Also, did you restore the magnesium parts yourself and if so what did you use?
I think they look great!
I have a Badger air blaster that uses aluminum oxide and was considering trying it on these parts.
I have the gears and nylon bearings, I even have all the original black axle spacers. Other that that one bolt and other parts mentioned earlier, I should be good to go.
And... I agree that the brass tube seems to fit tight enough with the spring tension to hold just fine.
#4
Posted 29 April 2014 - 11:04 AM
I cleaned my chassis (shown) and two others by sitting down with some steel wool in front of the tube while sucking on a beer. Took about an hour to do the whole thing.
Then mixed up some clear with a slight pink tint and shot it.
I think I got too much red in but.... I've seen many chassis of various shades, so there is no one correct shade.
The clear protects the magnesium from further corrosion.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
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#6
Posted 29 April 2014 - 12:32 PM
Thanks Joe, but I'm sure I have a 2/56 nut and bolt 3/4" long. I just wanted to be sure that there was nothing special about this bolt that I wasn't understanding.
I may just bypass using the bolt like Jairus suggested. It's not like I'm going to be racing this car anyway.
#7
Posted 29 April 2014 - 04:20 PM
Put the bolt in to prevent the tube from getting lost. The spring doesn't work well and Cox added a brass tongue to set the guide depth, I posted instructions on the blog. Race the car, enjoy it, YoLo
#8
Posted 29 April 2014 - 09:24 PM
Gary, I've been looking over 2 years to find a Cox GT40 that I could afford that had basically all the parts to build a nice presentation piece. This is my first Cox car and maybe my last as the only other one I would really be interested in is the Chaparral 2D and to find one of them in decent shape would most likely just be too expensive for my budget.
My fondness for the 2D goes back to when I got one for my 12th birthday.
There's no race tracks in my area to race at anyway, plus the fact that I have other AMT brass chassis and Dynamic built cars that would most likely run much better that I could use.
#9
Posted 29 April 2014 - 09:47 PM
Charles, the screw and nut that Joe shows is exactly like what I put into the mail this afternoon. Sooooo... you are on the road my friend!
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#10
Posted 30 April 2014 - 06:35 AM
Charles, the screw and nut that Joe shows is exactly like what I put into the mail this afternoon. Sooooo... you are on the road my friend!
Sweeeeet ! Thanks again Jairus!