18 replies to this topic

[CoastalAngler1]

When I search google, it is kinda tough to find the right flux info for different slot car applications.  Can someone give a short recommendation including brands please?  Guidelines?  (all i got is the little red plastic container of flux paste that came in a beginner kit) 

 

Electrical?  Brass Chassis?  Piano Wire?  Steel Chassis?  Motor Cans to Chassis?

 

Flux/solder combo?

 

Needing upgrades to the right stuff - no I'm not buying a $300 something soldering station...this one on order: 110V Adjustable Electric Temperature Gun Welding Soldering Iron Tool 60W (the blue one with yellow adjusting knob).

 

 

 

[JerseyJohn]

The soldering standard that Tony P and Bob Emott used is Kestor 60/40 flux core.44 RA Solder Wire, .062" dia., Core Size-66 Sn60Pb40. For all non electrical soldering. just for chassis use Stay Clean liquid . 

 

[Gator Bob]

When I search google, it is kinda tough to find the right flux info for different slot car applications.  Can someone give a short recommendation including brands please?  Guidelines?  (all i got is the little red plastic container of flux paste that came in a beginner kit) 

 

Electrical?  - Rosin flux / rosin core only

Brass Chassis? - acid flux with 60/40 rosin cord solder

Piano Wire?  -  acid flux with 60/40 rosin cord solder

Steel Chassis?  acid flux with 60/40 rosin cord solder

Motor Cans to Chassis? acid flux with 60/40 rosin cord solder

 

Flux/solder combo? Rosin core 60/40.

 

Acid flux - Stay clean, Mike Swiss or Lucky Bobs

Solder - I use Kester 44

 

Needing upgrades to the right stuff - no I'm not buying a $300 something soldering station...this one on order: 110V Adjustable Electric Temperature Gun Welding Soldering Iron Tool 60W (the blue one with yellow adjusting knob)

 

 

 

[John Streisguth]

What they said...except I use solder from radio shack...it's just convenient to buy. 

[slotcarone]

Charles there are many topics on here about soldering/chassis building. Go back and read them for much good info.

[Ramcatlarry]

Liquid acid flux is basic HCL - hydrocloric acid.  The strength varies and the 'stainless' variety is a stronger concentration.

Lucky Bob is another brand that offers different strength liquid fluxes.

 

Rosin core or solid solder works just fine with the liquid flux for chassis building.  The red or brown paste flux is fine for the wiring hook-ups.

 

I only had a trigger gun in the 1960's and never could do much with chassis work. The 40 watt (minimum) straight heaters are the way to go - even the basic Weller from Home Depot is better than any trigger with a wire for any chassis work.  Having the heat and enough MASS of a tip is the answer to getting the pieces to work...and scotchbrite all of the parts shiny before adding the flux.

[CoastalAngler1]

Thank You, Thank You...last question - which tips (a fat one for chassis) are the ones to get for the adjustable cheep solder iron?  110V Adjustable Electric Temperature Gun Welding Soldering Iron Tool 60W (the blue one with yellow adjusting knob)

 

  

[Pablo]

You won't really need silver solder unless you plan to: A. start soldering pinions on G7 motors  B. solder armature wires to commutators  C. build chassis where you want a particular joint to melt at a higher temp than surrounding solders.

 

The only thing I disagree with these guys on is the flux in solders.  They put it there for people who solder circuit boards without using additional flux.  We always use lots of flux, be it acid for chassis or paste for electrical. Therefore the type flux in the solder doesn't matter to us.  Matter of fact, I do not like paste flux solders because when I'm using acid I don't like a glob of brown goop on my brass and wire.  I prefer solder without flux, but my second choice is the clear flux solders Radio Shack sells. 60/40 is fine for everything - 63/37 is also fine - 62/36/2 has a little silver and I like it also.

 

Here is all you need, Charlie:

.063 dia. 60/40

 

.032 dia. 60/40

 

Stay Clean acid flux

 

Paste Flux

 

Soder Wick  (most guys use old braid to clean excess solder but this makes it sweet)

 

When you need big heat, Radio Shack minitorch is the ticket. (It requires special skills, Bunky ).

 

[drrufo]

  If you bought the iron that Rgeo suggests then you can swap the Hakko tips for their soldering station. I tried the very fine tip and it wound up bending. I use the chisel tip for most of the work I do. If I need a finer tip, I put it on my blue iron so that I have both available.. Makes for a confused moment when you grab the wrong(cold) iron....

  I have a second blue iron in my racer chaser box for work away from my shop. They work great and are cheap, can't beat them.

[Guy Spaulding]

From soldering coat-hanger-wire chassis when I was 12, through USAF certified work, and Aggressor Frames, to now.  I also totally agree with everything above.

 

I'm waiting delivery of the the lo-cost variable iron mentioned above, and ordered a Hakko T18 Series 0.20 in. Chisel Tip for 8.57 +tax from the Home Depot site, delivered to my local store.

 

Used braid makes great solder sucker material. Great for cleaning up Flexi motor boxes

 

Also note, this is a pretty good deal for "old school"

[Bill from NH]

That is a pretty good deal on the above Weller iron. That heater is 45W, it'd be good for leadwires & thin stock. For soldering in motors & when working on thicker materials, I'd  want more heat. My old school Ungars, distant relatives of this Weller, are 50W & higher. 

[Pablo]

Charlie, welcome to the world of soldering slot cars....

You don't need this much equipment and supplies.  I do, because I work on all types of stuff:

 

I use multiple types of soldering tools, solders, and fluxes, depending on the situation.

Ask anyone here, they will affirm I am "certifiably insane" 

[Guy Spaulding]

That is a pretty good deal on the above Weller iron. That heater is 45W, it'd be good for leadwires & thin stock. For soldering in motors & when working on thicker materials, I'd  want more heat. My old school Ungars, distant relatives of this Weller, are 50W & higher. 

Agreed.  I use the 50W version.  The 45W may a challenge, soldering motors in SCR, Champion, JK7 or 21 chassis, but should be fine for open motor-box chassis, bearings, pinions, etc.

[CoastalAngler1]

Thanks everyone for sharing your wisdom!  (when I ran slot drags, someone else made, tuned, and fixed my cars - now it's up to me)

 

Hopefully, the Rgeo recommended blue iron with yellow adjusting knob and hakko .20 chisel tip will work on the JK steel chassis.  Heck, I haven't soldered much more than lead wires and a couple rookie scratchers with thin stock...Arrrrrr - motor boxes, pinions, front axle attaching, floppy bat pans, full plumber - YIKES!  Gonna need more help!  ...soon enough I too get to be a Solder Sucker! 

[Bill from NH]

That's what Pablo is missing in his photo posted above. He shows no solder sucker!  Mine looks like a baby's boogie remover, a light blue plastic bulb on the end of a piece of white teflon tubing.

[Pablo]

I use Soder-Wick for sucking solder. Haven't tried the suck bulbs.

[Guy Spaulding]

They both have thier purposes and advantages.

 

Cleaning a JK7 chassis, after the motor was removed, is the job of wick (or some spent braid)

 

When desoldering a motor that was soldered directly to a JK7 is best done with a sucker if "slinging" is out of the question

 

Clearing solder from a hole on a PC board (like on a controller) is almost soley done with a sucker

[CoastalAngler1]

I didn't know soldering required so much sucking     and slinging.  

I thought a compass in my slot box was a weird mix, now a booger sucker? 

You guys are great!  When you visit Orlando, save time for me to take you fishing - that I don't suck at... 

[Zippity]

Only a sucker solders without a wick