18 replies to this topic

[rvec]

Below are a few images of my latest track improvement rubber molding.

 

In order to preserve plastic bodies and wooden crash walls from carnage of violent collisions, I have added a layer of rubber molding to the crash walls. The molding is actually dubbed cove molding and is typically used at the base of interior walls to protect against damage or scuffing of painted surfaces. Cove molding adhesive (similar to Liquid Nails) is used to bond the molding to the surface in question and does and admirable job that is quick, easy and clean (any excess adhesive can be wiped off with warm water and a rag).

 

The molding comes in a variety of colors heights and thicknesses. I selected black four inch high by eighth inch thick. Home improvement stores carry this molding for about $.50 per linear foot. The molding has a horizontal ribbed surface on its back side that I used as a guide to cut the molding to the proper height to fit my crash walls. I cut the material with a scissors; however, it can be cut effectively with a table saw.

[Dennis David]

I wish they had these at Slot Car Raceway in Rohnert Park. Those walls are murder on plastic bodies.

[Cheater]

Rich, perhaps you don't know, but you're not the first track builder to use cove molding in this manner.

 

Ray Gardner's original Bullet Raceway, opened in Atlanta in 1991, had the same feature on his 1/24 wood tracks. Seen numerous times in other places.

 

It is an easy, cheap, and rather elegant addition to a track.

[A. J. Hoyt]

I think this looks like a great idea!

 

It has to beat ANY firm foam rubber lining on inside walls. Our local track has that and it just keeps chunking onto the track. I think it hooks the cars when they hit it and increases the damage!

 

Also, just when I think the deslot in front of me has missed, it bounces off the wall - and I get taken out on the rebound. You can't predict the bounce with chewed-up foam rubber and Murphy always seems to win!

 

But I'll take second place after Murphy has his win!

 

Keep it in the slot (and it doesn't matter WHAT is lining the inside of the walls!),

 

AJ

[Tim Neja]

Looks good – hope it works as good as it looks!!

[rvec]

As Greg mentioned it is not an original idea. I didn't know that Ray Gardner used cove molding in this manner but STR, another local club track, used it and I know it works - too bad I took so long - could have saved some plastic.

Rich

[Samiam]

As long as the  molding is installed without the radius at the bottom it works great. I have seen it installed this way and it causes some cars to launch when the rear tire rides up on it.

[Zippity]

Any chance of a "close-up" of a piece of this rubber molding so that I can actually see what it looks like?
 
Thanks.

[rvec]

Black 4 in. x 1/8 in. Cove Wall Base

The bottom part of the molding is cut off so the molding sits flat against the crash wall from top to bottom.

[BillyBob]

As long as the  molding is installed without the radius at the bottom it works great. I have seen it installed this way and it causes some cars to launch when the rear tire rides up on it.

What Sam said!!!

[Pappy]

Slot car racing's version of the "safer barrier". Can't wait till someone puts styrofoam behind the cove base.

[Jeff Bechtel]

I have used cove molding on all of my tracks since the '80s and did install it with the curved bottom still on it at the bottom and never had any problems with "launching". Of course all of my tracks had 6" of run-off inside and out when I had them built.

[Cheater]

Yeah, Jeff, I was thinking the same thing. I don't recall that small curve at the bottom of the molding causing any problems either, at least not at the tracks where I raced that had it.

But I can see how it could, if the spacing between the outer lane and the wall was narrow enough to allow cars to contact the wall easily when tailing out.

[Samiam]

Many newer designed tracks have biased the lanes to the inside of the turns leaving more run out on the outside. But when the space is narrow and the car is a 4.5" wheelbase Stock Car the car can do some outrageous offs.

[Ramcatlarry]

About ten years ago, I when one step softer. I found a shelf liner at the depot that was closed cell foam about 1/8 inch thick. I cut that sheet into one inch strips and glued that down on the walls. 

Second step is to cut the cove molding into two inch strips and glue them over the foam. Since the bulk of the cars force (with commercial cars) is at the axle line, the foam helps to cushion the crash. 1/24 hardbodies might need the full two inch height, but I liked the look of the sealed edge at the top with just the cove molding. I always tried to use the low curve of the vinyl on the banked turns - if you were drifting THAT much, only formula type cars had wheels to touch it and they were already crashed.
 
I had seen the vinyl used on corners before, but without it, the rental cars tore it up so well that they even poked holes in the MDF walls. Bondo does nice work to fill that divot.
 
Last I knew, my Ogilvie LTD is in Oklahoma, the Ogilvie Hillclimb is in Florida, and the Dadds King and Scorpion are on the East coast - Virginia(?).  Bill Pinch reported that the vinyl is due for replacement at ten years old.
 
I know it sure cut down on the rental car maintenance issues and the customer car damages. Customers liked it that their cars did not get torn up so easily.

[stumbley]

I used the cove molding itself as "fence" material. I routed a slot to follow the radius of the curves on my track and inserted the cove material into the slot. It makes for a great, forgiving fence.

 

[Ramcatlarry]

I used a clear vinyl from hanging doors  on my HO track.  Got it from McMaster Carr - much better than the hard plexi on the original Bucktrax.

[Mbloes]

Like Stan, I just use the rubber - very forgiving (click through for a nice big, detailed image).

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[MSwiss]

The above guys have it.

Just use the rubber if it's stiff enough to stand erect.

Adding hard rubber to a hard wall will protect the wall, but not really reduce damage to the car, unless you sandwich some foam rubber in between.

For larger commercial tracks, where visibility is an issue, 3/32" Lexan® works the best, but be prepared to spend $70 for 12 sq. ft.

Also, keeping the screws a bit loose will make it more effective and reduce the noise a bit when the cars hit it.

Screwing the Lexan® down using some sort of rubber grommet or bushing, would be the ultimate ticket in give and visibility.