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How to self-center guide?


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#26 tonyp

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 03:02 PM

Also oil the wire anywhere it touches itself or the chassis.

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#27 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 04:13 PM

What tony said. The wire has have minimum friction.
 
Armor-All or Rain-X type product on the wire works good also... keeps the wire 'real slick' without the .  B)
A better life though chemistry :umnik2: A little dab'al do'ya  :whistle3:  :huh: 
 
Charlie,
I think you have 'Probe' wire (for oscilloscopes or meters) on that car.
The insulation is too thick in relation to the wire size and the silicone jacket is so smooth it's 'dragging' on the brass.
 
Like an old silicone tire on a gloss-painted track. ...LOL.
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#28 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 04:22 PM

IMO, There is nothing wrong with the red and black Parma wire.


Bob,

The Parma red and black wire that comes on their motors is brittle junk! :dash2: Parma used to sell a nice leadwire with a flexible black silicone insulation but I don't know if it's still available.
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#29 DOCinCanton

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 08:32 AM

Off topic a little but still important concerning the lead wires is to never apply acid flux to lead wires. The acid is too corrosive to the copper. Only use paste flux.

And make sure the solder gets wicked up under the outer insulation.
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#30 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 09:19 AM

The self-centering guide worked well for one night. Jay Guard's Retro cars are sweet - his Can-Am that took TQ last weekend at the Gator Region Retro race is nice! Jay is a superb flat track driver for sure. This learning expedition is awesome - Now, where did I put that Blue Gator Wire?  Casey's wire ordered, and hopefully Bill P has some Pro Slot 20awg clear lead. I'll post a couple pics when the new stuff is installed for critique/advisement.


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#31 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 11:39 AM

Snappy and Happy!  Thank you everyone for the help...How'd I do?

 

2 ft of TQ 18ga. wire from The Raceway...and some clips epoxied to chassis.

 

snappy guides.jpg


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#32 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 11:49 AM

On a FCR I do mine exactly how Danny has his and it works perfect!


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#33 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 12:42 PM

Good point Matt! - that's what I will end up with, noted and stored.  do you have a clip holding it to the chassis under the axle?


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#34 Guy Spaulding

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 01:18 PM

I do my flexis the same way. 

 

See guys pull their dead car in the middle of a race due to a broken wire at the guide?

 

Never happen if they wired it this way.



#35 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 04:16 PM

After Pablo's email (Thanks!), I gotta admit this is 2nd try - it works but the loops and earring retainer are not perfect yet.   :sarcastic_hand:

I'm catching on how technical it can be - wait till you see round 3... :crazy:  DZ copycats for Flexi and Parma  :shok:


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#36 Gator Bob

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 04:21 PM

What wire is used to 'splice on' going back to the motor?

 

I've read this technique is for weight savings. Any other real or perceived advantage?


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#37 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 04:40 PM

If the earring clutches are already soldered in place, just ditch the California Loops and make short "wing car style" arcs in the wires from the keeper to the clips.

That will give you the exact very strong self centering return you have been looking for all these years :laugh2:


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#38 Gator Bob

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 05:01 PM

I try to let my conscience be 'MyGuide' when it comes to being 'Self Centered' ... even if I'm wired up.  :dance4:  :blink:

 

Plus - 'MyWife' cut me off from raiding her jewelry box for slot car parts.  :cray: :angel:


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#39 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 05:22 PM

Bob, go to a craft store such as Micheals, A.C. Moore, or Jo-Anns. There you can pick up a bag of 100 gold or silver  earring backs for less than $5. An earring store will sell smaller quantities.

 

For wire used to 'splice on' towards the motor, get some 20 or 22 gauge solid copper such as bell wire. When formed properly, it doesn't have to be insulated. That's an old wing car weight saving trick, especially when qualifying.


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#40 Danny Zona

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Posted 10 October 2014 - 07:04 PM

Hey, Bob. The light lead wire is something I get from KellyRacing. It is similar to RTR(RalphThorn) lead wire. The Kelly is a little lighter. Its only purpose is to save weight.

Bill, I got the splice idea from wing cars like you said. It saves about a gram depending on type of car.
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#41 Shooter7mustang

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Posted 11 December 2018 - 07:21 PM

Acer Racing has some great lead wire, 18 & 20 gauge, red and black. Ten feet for $9.99. Super flexible.


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#42 Shooter7mustang

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Posted 11 December 2018 - 07:30 PM

Acer Racing has some great wire, 18&20 gauge black and red, $9.99 for ten feet. Great stuff, super flexible and

durable. They call it "Super Worm".

 

www.acerracing.com


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