47 replies to this topic

[Gator Bob]

At .812" you can run a 28-29 crown, At .825" maybe a 30.

 

ARP makes a really good 6 tooth pinion. But ... they don't look the period.

 

So ... maybe a 6/28 and a pair of treated tires would help settle it in. 

 

I've run 6/29 at .820" on my local short track in retro stock car. It sure keeps the revs up.

 

A PM 'said' ... I was un-informed about the perceived vintage appearance of the ARP 6T straight pinions.

 

Fact is: The 6T ARP straight cut pinyouns look period correct.

 

Correct-o-Type was all dried up, sorry for the cross outs, ... Pablo.

[Gator Bob]

Good news on better/easier Captain Rick. It sure is a lil' sweetie.  

 

It must be 'great fun' to be able to test and drive without leaving home.

[Pablo]

"At .812" you can run a 28-29 crown, At .825" maybe a 30."

This should stay, Bob, because it's true.

ARP makes a 6T straight steel pinion, and to say it "doesn't look the period" struck a Pablo nerve, since I'm building a Korrect car right now that may use one.

Bob, don't ask what it is, because I won't answer   No offense

[dc-65x]

 

It must be 'great fun' to be able to test and drive without leaving home.

 

It's really helpful and fun to have a "mini" commercial quality track right behind my workbench. I do, however, REALLY miss the interaction I used to have with Rodney and the guys at Eddie's Slot Car World.

 

 

I still like the yellow if you are collecting opinions lol.

 

Yellow it's going to be. This little missile should be easier to see in a bright color. Maybe I won't miss my braking points if it's bright yellow!

[Hermit #1]

<SNIP>

 

The 7T pinion stays.

 

Thanks guys

Glad it worked for you - I feel vindicated now...

[Regis4446]

Perfect work, thank you for sharing.

it's your cool this frame

[dc-65x]

It's finally painted!   I have a problem once I get to the painting and detailing part of the build.     But I do'd it. Testors flat yellow airbrushed, backed with Testors rattle can flat white:

 

 

This car is really going to get finished.......

 

I should add that the Lancer King Cobra body painted with enamel is vintage butyrate not a modern Lexan repop. Lexan and enamel don't seem to get along.

[Pablo]

Sweeet, the paint really pops !!! 

[dc-65x]

Thanks Pablo.

 

There are lots of vents and scoops to paint flat black.....should make the body look less like a banana!

[dc-65x]

The decals showed up from Patto's Place:

 

 

I gave them a coat of Testors Clear Gloss so here we go..................

[SlotStox#53]

Nice! They're gonna finish off that color/body beautifully

Keep looking at all that brass on that cool chassis and thinking *I've gotta build one ......one day*


So many ideas and projects, so little time! Plus finding the parts!

Is that a Russkit motor bracket Rick?

[dc-65x]

Thanks Paul. Yup, that's the venerable Russkit bracket alright.

[Ramcatlarry]

FYI.  The earlier blue USRRC King cobra as modeled by Monogram is a Cooper Monaco chassis and bodywork.  The yellow beast 'may' have shared some chassis parts, but the body was rather different.  When I saw the original cars at the Meadowdale (IL) Race , I modeled my Mongram kit to the 'as raced' cars with different ducts and spoilers.  I saw the yellow beast at the Road America Vintage races a few years ago and the mechanic was telling a tale about how they made the nose so low using a front suspension design similar to the Cheetah, which also made it as hard to drive as the cheetah.

[dc-65x]

Well here's my tribute to her in 1/32 scale Larry:

 

 

 

She's low and swoopy for sure:

 

 

Here's the view I wish she could have shown the competition.....her behind with big honk'n pipes!

 

 

Powered by a massive V8......

 

 

.....keeping driver Jerry Titus plenty busy! Notice the transverse front shock-spring that proved troublesome on the prototype.

 

 

Nice car those guys in the day came up with. Nice body and interior by Lancer. I'm glad I finally finished it and can "see it move".

 

Onward...........

[SlotStox#53]

That came out great & can imagine the yellow blur as it flies round your track

Another one done Rick !

[Tim Wilkins]

Fantastic build!  I know from experience even those gray sponge tires are hard to find.

[dc-65x]

Thanks guys. I think she turned out to be a little beauty too!

 

Here's a bottom view I forgot to post that shows everything stuffed into that little 1/32 scale space:

 

 

Nice design the boys came up with in the day!

 

Onward........

[Bill from NH]

Beautiful car Rick! You state enamels work well on butyrate, yet enamels & lexan doesn't mix. What has been your experience using enamels on PETG? I have a few Tom Andersen bodies & others from Larry Shephard, all pulled in PETG.

[Lone Wolf]

What can one say? Just incredible from every angle.

 

Can you tell me about the intakes and how they were done? They look very uniform which very hard to accomplish. 

[dc-65x]

Can you tell me about the intakes and how they were done?

 
Hi Joe,
 
This is how I make them:
 

Next I wanted to make up some velocity stacks out of aluminum tube. Here's what I used to make them:



I put a short length of 1/8" tube in a hand drill and squared up the end. Then I put a drop of oil on the end of a center punch and pushed it into the tube with the drill running slowly. This will flare the end of the tube:



This is what you end up with after a little polishing with 600 grit sandpaper:



To drill out the body for the stacks I started the hole by twisting a No.11 X-Acto blade. Then I finished them with a taper pin reamer. It really leaves a nice clean hole:






Onward.

I'm very bored with making them nowadays especially on 12 cylinder engines!!!!. I've made what seems like a zillion of them and now I buy them pre-made off of eBay!        That's where the stacks shown on the King Cobra came from.
 

What has been your experience using enamels on PETG?

 
Hey Bill,
 
I've done a few PETG bodies with Testors enamel and they turn out great....I think:
 

 

 
I do sand the inside of the bodies to give the paint something to bite into. I also wash the body out with Dawn to get rid of any "greasy fat of hand". Also, I'm not racing these and making wall shots at every turn. The Parma stuff would no doubt be better for that.

[Lone Wolf]

Thanks for the info. Great thinking on your part.

 

That tool selection looks like something out of Marathon Man

 

Nice tip on the reamer as a drill bit does not tend to make a clean hole.

 

Are you purchasing the tubes that are made for model kits?

[dc-65x]

Here's one source:

 

VELOCITY STACKS IN MODELS & KITS

 

 

That tool selection looks like something out of Marathon Man

 

Now you know why I'm buying them! I know I can make them but I'd rather be soldering

[Bill from NH]

Rick, thanks for your insight into painting PETG with enamels. When I last bought Testors enamel, it cost a dime per bottle. Fortunately, I've got a good supply of acrylics on-hand. Some of the static model car builders I read about are using acrylic craft & hobby paints for airbrushing.