Maximum Mabuchi time again
#1
Posted 24 December 2014 - 02:29 PM
1) Platform... could be anything from an FJ13UO to an FT36D to an FT26D to an FT16D.
2) Drive... most Mabuchis have been used either can drive or endbell drive with the 13UO mostly can drive. For obvious reasons, I think can drive is best whenever possible, using the clip on the can end and a screw on the endbell end... but cans can also be drilled pretty easily to make can mounting more secure.
3) Wind... of course, I can go all the way to a #23, but that's just plain stoooopid. Even with the motor starting out from the viewpoint of "no holds barred", a #26 is kurayzeee... but do-able for the occasional blast-lap or two.
4) Final application... sidewinder, inline, or anglewinder (depending on the drive and application, it might be necessary to "reverse time" (CW) the arm.
Anyway, I'm spitballing here and figured it might be fun to get as many ideas from you folks as possible. So, feel free to chime in all you vintage freaks, but let's not little period details necessarily get in the way of building a stompin' "what if" motor!
-john
#2
Posted 24 December 2014 - 05:03 PM
How about working backwards from the car? Build the motor to match the era's technology and the car's performance.
Maybe THIS?
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
Robert Mueller, special counsel (2013)
"... because people have got to know whether or not their president is a crook."
Richard M .Nixon, Nov 17, 1973
"Fool me once, same on... shame on you. Fool me... you can't get fooled again."
George W. Bush
#3
Posted 24 December 2014 - 05:26 PM
Looks like Rick used a pretty typical endbell drive 26D rewind, and those are certainly popular and easy to do. It wouldn't at all be (by any stretch) a "maximum Mabuchi", but that would somewhat depend on the wind. A 26D with Arcos and the endbell treatment could probably go at least to a #27, maybe even a #26.
-john
#4
Posted 24 December 2014 - 06:28 PM
Maybe a 23 ga. single or double 25 FT-36D? (for brutality) or maybe a 16D for a lightweight car...
A double 26 FT-26?
- Gator Bob likes this
Tom Hemmes
Insert witty phrase here...
#5
Posted 25 December 2014 - 08:42 AM
Certainly, a drag motor can probably live fairly well even with a stoooopid wind because of the short running times, but for those short runs the motors are still experiencing some godawful physical stresses. A #23 36D would certainly be brutal, as would a double 26 26D. I don't have any more 36D Arco magnets or a substitute for them, but maybe could find some if that's the way this goes. I have plenty of 26D Arcos though.
-john
#6
Posted 27 December 2014 - 12:12 PM
-john
#7
Posted 28 December 2014 - 06:54 PM
No one has jumped in to offer a set of 36D Arcos yet, but I'll see if I have any modern ceramics to fit. If not, I can always finish the motor as-is and the magnets can be swapped out easy enough.
-john
#8
Posted 28 December 2014 - 10:44 PM
That #26 arm sure looks mighty fine, Sir... should spin up pretty well!
#9
Posted 28 December 2014 - 11:00 PM
How many turns?
I hope I don't have to line up next to that beast in the "Rods and Rails" wheelstander class.
I don't have any separate magnet shim combos on hand right now.
BTW: Do the BB/Green cans at Prof. Motor have the stock mags?
Bob Israelite
#10
Posted 29 December 2014 - 08:15 AM
I spy a Champion 36D comm.
Thanks, Paul. Yes, the comm is the one Champion and others sold. I believe it's a Kirkwood product, but don't know for sure. Anyway, it's the only vintage comm for the larger diameter 36D shaft I know of that can be welded/brazed without exploding. The problem with them is that they are so short that there's precious little range to fit them without the tabs hitting the underside of the endbell (even with heavy clearancing under there)... or the brushes riding off the top. Even so, I tilted the tabs down a bit for an extra micron of clearance
Looks super, John!
How many turns?
I hope I don't have to line up next to that beast in the "Rods and Rails" wheelstander class.
I don't have any separate magnet shim combos on hand right now.
BTW: Do the BB/Green Cans at Prof. motor have the stock mags?
Thanks, Bob. It's 30t/26 and comes in under .2 ohm (I won't know for sure until the tabs are welded and the comm is cut), but should be capable of some major torque as well as revs with the right magnets. Those Green ball bearing cans at Professor Motor have the standard magnets installed. Nice cans and the bearings seem fine. There used to be Arco-equipped 36D cans at reasonable prices at Mid-America, but of course that source is gone (even though the website is still there... probably just running on it's own). I know of no other source any more.
I've also taken all the precautions with the endbell. It's been converted to use the "bulletproofing" plates more commonly seen on 16D/26D and the brush tubes are soldered to those. The hoods have been cut down to clear the spring posts and the hardware has "four screw" mounting... with the endbells being through-bolted with 1-72 screws backed up with a fiber washer and a brass washer underneath. I believe that this endbell conversion should allow for the use of standard springs (i.e.: short), but haven't checked that yet... onnacounta I can always wind up a pair if necessary. The endbell was also drilled for ventilation/inspection top and bottom. If I can't source good magnets, I'll clean the stock ones up and shim them to close the hole some. That will bias the motor more towards revs than torque, but gearing should be able to still result in a potent drag motor.
-john
BTW, that cool steel 12t pinion was on the shaft before I stripped and powder-coated the arm. I hadn't seen one before, but it looks very nice and you know that extra length (when soldered) means it ain't gonna slip.
#11
Posted 29 December 2014 - 11:11 AM
I like the endbell plates.
The longer inline length steel .093" pinions are not very plentiful.
I'm pretty (99.9%) sure that is a LaGanke commutator.
Bob Israelite
#12
Posted 29 December 2014 - 02:24 PM
I'm pretty (99.9%) sure that is a LaGanke commutator.
They were marketed under several brand names, but I don't think (?) that LaGanke was the actual manufacturer with all that's involved with commutator manufacturing. I know that Champion sold them under their brand for sure.
Tradeship had their own 36D comms, but they're not nearly as strong as these... more on a par with their small shaft (16D/26D) comms and you DEFINITELY don't want to weld those. Believe me, I know!
-john
#14
Posted 29 December 2014 - 04:22 PM
There you go... and there may be others, too.
Anyway, the comm is welded and the arm comes in at precisely .161 ohms per pole. That should drop a bit more with a fresh cut on the comm and the oxidation on there comes off.
-john
#15
Posted 29 December 2014 - 07:23 PM
John,
That is one Hell of an arm. 30t of #26 is getting close to Eurosport territory.
Can you post a video of "Maxbuchi" on the power supply?
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
Robert Mueller, special counsel (2013)
"... because people have got to know whether or not their president is a crook."
Richard M .Nixon, Nov 17, 1973
"Fool me once, same on... shame on you. Fool me... you can't get fooled again."
George W. Bush
#16
Posted 29 December 2014 - 08:08 PM
Yep, it oughta dim the lights in Fresno alright. After the comm cut, resistance is down to .157 ohms (precisely) per pole. Of course, this one will have to go out for dynamic balancing because static ain't gonna cut it. I think someone has scrounged a set of Arco magnets too, so it should be all set to go.
Can you post a video of "Maxbuchi" on the power supply?
Other than a blip at low voltage, this one will not get a no-load blast at higher voltage. It's really not a good idea in my view. There's a lot of rotating mass with one of these big arms, and such high mass plus high RPM minus a load (gearset and car weight)equals shortened motor life or worse.
-john
#17
Posted 29 December 2014 - 09:02 PM
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
Robert Mueller, special counsel (2013)
"... because people have got to know whether or not their president is a crook."
Richard M .Nixon, Nov 17, 1973
"Fool me once, same on... shame on you. Fool me... you can't get fooled again."
George W. Bush
#18
Posted 30 December 2014 - 07:58 AM
-john