16 replies to this topic

[CoastalAngler1]

Tried to PM you a diagram of a secret motor soldering block... send me a PM and I can reply.

[Samiam]

But then it won't be a secret anymore.

[CoastalAngler1]

Thanks for the PM.  emailed a diagram - whatcha think?

[Gator Bob]

sounds all fishy to me.....

[Joe Mig]

As long it don't as it don't smell like fish.

[CoastalAngler1]

If anyone knows where to get one, it will saving the trouble of making/sending out.  

The 2 dots are for the holes for set screws. 4.5cm center to center of holes.

 

[Samiam]

I have seen the wing guys use a block with legs to allow the chassis to be quickly clamped to it. A lot faster than screws. Easy to make out of Corian®.

[Bill from NH]

I have a piece of 1/4" phenolic cut similar to this. I put two .062" piano wire pegs along the edge of what this drawing shows as 3.7 cm. This was my motor changing block from the 70's & 80's. I didn't need it for motor removals, but with the chassis slid against the two pegs, it was easy to solder in a new motor. I built this for wing cars, but also have used it with flexis since the mid-90's.

[CoastalAngler1]

Thanks Samiam and Bill - gonna get a few made, unless someone has the hot tip for the fastest re-solder/change during a race...

[Gator Bob]

There are various material 'motor changing' blocks that are commercially available.

 

The right size ceramic honeycomb block would do it.

 

Aluminum = heatsink

[Danny Zona]

You have a good idea, Charlie. It will heip you and others. After a while and a lot of practice, you will only need a regular block. A good motor changer needs a minute tops to change a motor. Practice ,practice, practice and more practice make perfect.

[CoastalAngler1]

Not my idea - Matt Bowman has one in his box.

[Bill from NH]

Unless it's an endurance race, I don't want to be changing flexi motors during any race. I don't recall that I ever have, including when my daughter & son raced with me. 

[CoastalAngler1]

Thanks Bill - I figured if I lost a motor, I'd pull my car.  Out of the 3 cars that popped motors at the race, Matt Bowman was the only one that came back in - on purple and got fast lap - I was in his outside lane and took a couple nerfs that cost me to go down one place by one lap. Later Matt taught me to burp the straight when someone is coming on the inside. 

[Michael Rigsby]

Charlie, really experienced racers like Danny can do motor changeouts in about a minute. I'm not sure if he uses a two solder point or three solder point.  I've learned during my series races..I keep an axle with a spur gear already installed ready to go if I need it.  My soldering iron also stays full on with solder and acid ready to go and my motor block and spacers at the ready.  I have done a motor changeout like this, but being older and having arthritis it took me almost the full two minutes to do it.  Now if you have chassis damage you have to straighten after a wreck and the motor gets knocked out...well....that one or two minutes goes right out the window.

 

In points racing for a title...like I did in 2008..you never, ever quit or take a DNF. You always get back in the race somehow.

[CoastalAngler1]

In points racing for a title...like I did in 2008..you never, ever quit or take a DNF. You always get back in the race somehow.

 

Points racing for a title? Me?        I will be ready next race to solder a motor...someone gets a nerf when I'm back in.

 

(I am however in 7th place in FL in NASCAR and LMP - currently leading DZ)   ROFLMAO

 

If this doesn't make you laugh, it should - go see doctor immediately if you can finish this sentence without at least a chuckle!

[DOCinCanton]

Charlie, you forgot something. I do the point standings and I am going to put DZ above you.  Just kidding.