8 replies to this topic

[Trevor Neilson]

Got myself a JK 208171w F1 chassis. http://www.jkproducts.com/page14.html    Any hints on setting it up. Have had the chassis flatten and braced the rear uprights and soldered in the oiltes. . How should I set up the front. The uprights are slotted. so should I solder the front oilits in so the front of the chassis is as low as possible without touching the track or just let the wheels float in the holes. Using a Falcon or a Hawk7 type motor and a Red Fox RFSC35C body. http://www.e-slotcar.com/product-category/bodies-interiors/bodies-unpainted/indy-f1/page/3/

[Pablo]

Sounds like you already have the basics covered. I regularly race the older version of that chassis and everybody sets up the fronts same as the RTR - let it float. In flexi racing, front wheels are not your friends   Adjust ride height in front with flag spacers where bottom of chassis picks up just a tiny bit of track surface scum.  Hawk 7 motors will leave Falcons in the dust - they are a completely different spec.

[MSwiss]

Pablo,
I'll disagree with you on this one.

I had a customer with the old style one.

He was deslotting continually.

I tried the car and it was real hard to drive.

I soldered up the fronts and it got much easier to drive and lap times improved .2-.3.

While the car is a flexi of sorts, it really doesn't have ears in fronts.

IOW, the fronts ride wider than the supports under them.

That all said, with the new style car, I tried it stock for a customer first, and then soldered it up and noticed a very minimal improvement.

Whether it's tied in to the wider pan design, the higher downforce body or the newer car being run on my improved track, who knows.

It was also not very extensive testing.

I suggest to the OP that he try it various ways.

[Pablo]

Thanks Mike.  Next race I'll try tacking them in and see what happens.

[MSwiss]

I think this falls in that situation similar to when guys ask "What do I gear xxxx motor?"

Track configuration and power varies so much, track to track, racers really need to figure out on their own what works best for their specific situation.

[Michael Rigsby]

When I had one of these, I soldered the front axle in where I could adjust the front wheels touching by adding guide shims.  It was virtually undriveable until I did this. I personally found it better to have the front wheels just where they would touch on cornering, a tip effect if you will, and use independent rotating fronts.

 

May not work for everyone, but worked for my needs.

[Pablo]

Ah, I forgot to say, independent fronts for sure, no matter how you set up the axle.   Thanks Michael

[bluecars]

Pablo; You can not stop the axle up and down nor can you have independent fronts at the Dungeon. Rules are very specific.

[Zippity]

Trevor,

 

We race the JK 25117 in the NZSCA F1/Indy class sanctioned races, as well as our regular Club races.

 

Check out our current rules (6.8 - 6.11 on page 20) by following the link in my signature. I couldn't copy and paste them here

 

We solder the front axle bearings into the chassis to ensure that "the minimum distance from the top of the front 3/32" diameter axle and the under side of the chassis shall be 9.45mm."

 

 

Ron

Edited by Zippity, 23 February 2015 - 03:48 AM.