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Front axle materials, alternative to piano wire?


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#1 James Grandi

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 10:44 AM

Hey all,

I am curious if anyone has been using a material for front axles other than piano wire or drill blanks? I've used piano wire on all builds to this point, but I would like to find a material a little more consistent in sizing - much of the front axle piano wire I have bought in bundles ranges from .094 to .092 - which can create a bit of an issue when running JK fronts as I do.


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#2 tonyp

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 10:49 AM

I noticed a large variance in the K&S 3/32" piano wire the last few months. Some is really oversized. Other than a drill  blank I have no idea what would be usable... Bud's axles are pretty nice..


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#3 slotcarone

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 11:36 AM

I use piano wire. I cut it then put it in a drill and first polish it with a Scotchbrite pad then metal polish. Looks like chrome and the JK wheels spin good.


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#4 John Streisguth

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 11:51 AM

As Noose found out at the last RE race, drill blanks will tend to snap rather than bend. Just take your micrometer with you when you go buy your piano wire.    :)


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#5 wicked01

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 11:58 AM

We make our axles out of stainless steel, it's stronger than piano wire and doesn't break like drill blanks but even our stainless blanks come in way over. They say on the distributor's website the materials all have a variance of +/- 5 thou. But I have gotten one order that was +0.15 larger . If you would want to try some stainless PM me...


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#6 Half Fast

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 12:19 PM

At the same RE race that Noose snapped his axle, I was able to finish the race with one front wheel bent back at 30 degrees. I didn't notice it till I got home. To fix it all it took was a pliers and a twist of the wrist.

 

It was a Bartos threaded piano wire axle. There is a lot to be said for an axle that bends, but does not break, particularly on an F1 car.

 

Cheers,


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#7 Chevpower454

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 02:17 PM

I TIG weld all day, every day. So most of my front axles are made from filler rod. I usually use 316 stainless, because I have lots of it. Find yourself a welding shop where they do TIG welding and ask if you can look at their filler rod. They will probably have boxes of filler rod, different diameters and materials. Buy a couple lengths and make yourself some axles.


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#8 tonyp

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 02:56 PM

Can you solder to it? These are for Retro cars, the axles are soldered to the chassis.


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#9 slotbaker

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 03:44 PM

Silver Steel rod works well too, and is able to be soldered.

 

Silver steel is common tool steel that is supplied as a centerless ground round bar (with tolerances similar to that of drill rod). Amongst other applications, it has been widely used to make such things as punches, engravers, screwdrivers.


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#10 wbugenis

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 04:00 PM

Can you solder to it? These are for retro cars, the axles are soldered to the chassis.

 
Try drill rod.  It is the material drill balnks are made from but before hardening so will bend.
 
Precision ground.
 
 Fractional Size Drill Rod
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#11 A. J. Hoyt

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 04:50 PM

There is a local hardware store here in Boulder, CO, that sells very long 3/32" drill bits that are powder-coated black.
 
They are the ridiculous price of $9.50 each (for a drill bit) but I can make three front axles from one of them. Once the drill bit has been passed through a JK front hub (just cleans the burrs off, really), they ride really nice on the very long shank portion of it. The also fit very snug on the ID of ball bearings. I make a quick "bare" spot where I want to solder and it sticks just fine.
 
They are real drill bits (heat treated) so I would never use them for a rear axle but are great for the front. i have never snapped one and the racing here in CO is pretty rough-and-tumble at times.
 
Maybe your local "hard core" hardware store has them... look for them in the drill bit aisle or ask for them - they seem to be a specialized product and are packaged separately in very long (and very useful) zip-lock bags.
 
Keep it in the slot,
 
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#12 wicked01

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 07:58 PM

Can you solder to it? These are for Retro cars, the axles are soldered to the chassis.


Yes, Tony, solder sticks to stainless very well, never had a problem...

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#13 James Grandi

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Posted 07 November 2015 - 08:19 PM

Wow, a lot more options than I would've thought.

Thanks, everyone.
James Grandi
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#14 JimF

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Posted 08 November 2015 - 11:08 AM

One more option... I too have found the K&S to be pretty large of late and sometimes all they have in stock is about .094". However, a few years back, I bought an .094" reamer and it works a charm for the JK fronts.


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#15 Cap Henry

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Posted 08 November 2015 - 11:25 AM

I ran out of piano wire and used some 3/32" K&S stainless steel and it seemed to work well and still durable.

 

I did the drill blank route at one time because Precision Slot Cars sold 12 inch long chunks, but on F1s a good wall shot and your car became a three-wheeler LOL.


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#16 swodem

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 04:45 AM

Wondering what's wrong with THIS STUFF?

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#17 tonyp

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 07:35 AM

Cap, just replaced a tri-wheel F1 front axle with piano wire for Mr. Noose.
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#18 John C Martin

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 09:10 AM

We make our axles out of stainless steel, it's stronger than piano wire and doesn't break like drill blanks but even our stainless blanks come in way over. They say on the distributor's website the materials all have a variance of +/- 5 thou. But I have gotten one order that was +0.15 larger . If you would want to try some stainless PM me...


I have several of your threaded axles very nice. I really like the lightweight anodized purple nuts.

#19 John C Martin

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 09:28 AM

I found some great material years ago, Cheater may remember this I had him check the roundness at a race once... rounder than anything. Probably stainless, it's ejector pins they're made to govt. tolerances... for truck engines? They cost like $3 apiece... 10" long. Come in 1/8" also... they're 14" long.

ejector pins

image.jpg
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#20 MSwiss

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 09:45 AM

I've been given ejector pins to try as an axle for tire truers needing a longer axle for BB fronts.

Way too much run-out.

As far as bending F1 front axles, I'll probably build my next F1 chassis with a piece of 1/8" piano wire (as the front axle).
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#21 Steve Deiters

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 11:06 AM

I've been using ejector pins also. Work great.
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#22 Cap Henry

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 11:16 AM

Wondering what's wrong with THIS STUFF?


It's drill blank, it'll break. That's the Precision Slot Cars axle I talked about.

#23 Cap Henry

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 11:17 AM

Cap, just replaced a tri-wheel F1 front axle with piano wire for Mr. Noose.


LOL. Been there done that!

#24 tonyp

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 12:45 PM

It does save the chassis though.
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#25 MSwiss

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Posted 09 November 2015 - 12:55 PM

I'll go with piano wire and still be in the race.

Mike Swiss
 
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