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Anglewinder GP - Lotus 49B build


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#1 dc-65x

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 06:12 PM

It was March 1969 and the Pro's raced GP cars in the Model Car Science / USRA series:
 
d1.jpg
 
d2.jpg
 
d3.jpg
 
I think is time to build another one of these unique pieces of 1960s slot car history. Mike Morrissey did two how-to articles on these cool cars. Here's a link to them:

GP Chassis How-To Articles for the 1969 MCS/USRA Series
 
I built up this Dynamic Honda from his first article...
 
Lotus%2049B%208.jpg
 
Lotus%2049B%203.jpg
 
... and another Dynamic Honda from his second article:
 
Lotus%2049B%207.jpg
 
Lotus%2049B%202.jpg
 
Geeeze... look at the tarnishing, I mean patina, :crazy:  on the brass. It really is time to build a new one! :D
 
I'll use a non-Honda body and a different chassis. For inspiration, the chassis is from the great Bob Emott:
 
Emott%20GP%202.jpg
 
Emott%20GP%201.jpg
 
I'll go shoot some pictures of the Lancer Pro Series Ultra Light body for the build...


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#2 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 06:32 PM

I know these weren't universally liked or performed that we'll & disappeared as fast as they arrived... but I :heart: them and that Emott chassis!!

Just the combo of wiiide body and anglewinder is cool. When you first brought up the whole 1969 race series with these in I just had to build at least one of these.

Certainly never heard about that body you'll be using :D Which reminds me, I'll have to search out a couple of wide F1s if I'm to finally get around to one..

#3 dc-65x

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 07:39 PM

I like them too, Paul. They're something different to build and drive... AND they even had a Concours event where the cars were required to be real race cars not "motorized models". Check out the winning Honda. Yes, it has a fantasy paint scheme but it also has velocity stacks, mirrors, gas caps, wheel inserts, roll bar, and it raced in the Semi Main:
 
d4.jpg
 
As for bodies to use today, I know the TrueScale Dynamic Honda and the #880 (NOT the narrow #980) reproduction Lancer Ferrari work great. Unfortunately they are both not the easiest to find today especially with TrueScale being down. Hopefully Victor will get rejuvenated and bring his outstanding TrueScale bodies back online.
 
Anyway, here's what I'm using for this build:
 
Lotus%2049B%205_1.jpg
 
This is the 1-3/4" wide #800 series body. Lancer also made their bodies in a narrower #900 series that aren't really suited for anglewinder duty.
 
Lotus%2049B%204_1.jpg
 
Lotus%2049B%203_1.jpg
 
I love the "wedge" shape:
 
Lotus%2049B%201_1.jpg
 
Lotus%2049B%202_1.jpg
 
AND I love the real car:
 
Lotus%2049B%20Pics%205.jpg
 
:wub: :wub: :wub:
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#4 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 09:56 PM

Oh now that is just gorgeous. :D

Got all excited for a moment, I have a Dilworth/Lancer Lotus 49B. Got out the measuring device, nuts, it's the narrower version. :( :laugh2:

Look forward to seeing what motor or combination of motor parts you have in store for this build. :good:

#5 tonyp

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 08:10 AM

What's interesting is the Emott chassis was never sold. No name was engraved in the built-for area. We probably stopped running these on the east coast before he could sell it. We only ran a couple of anglewinder F1 races on the east coast and then went back to inlines per the rules at the time. Ran those once or twice and never ran F1s in any of the Car Model series any more.

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#6 Noose

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 08:40 AM

Mine is in the LASCM. 


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#7 Half Fast

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 12:09 PM

In the photo of the real car, I like how the photographer got "up close and personal" with a running race car!

 

Those were the good old days! :shok:

 

Cheers,

 

Build on...


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 01:39 PM

:popcorm1:  I love F1 anglewinders. This project is going to be badder to the bone than anything before it.   :yahoo:


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#9 dc-65x

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 01:48 PM

I was also thinking the Emott chassis might not have ever been used, Tony. The anglewinder GPs were so short-lived. But they were raced a couple of times along with the Sports Cars, GTs, and Stockers. I guess that's why I like the first half of the 1969 MCS-USRA race season so much.

 

I also like that they had a Concours event for actual race cars. That leads me to my next part of this project... the unique conical shape of the wheel rims on the real car:

 

Lotus%2049B%20Pics%204.jpg

 

I'm making a "race car" not a "scale car" so my attempt at these ultra cool wheels on the real car will will lean toward "race". I used my little hobby lathe to modify some period Riggen AA wheels:

 

Lotus%2049B%209.jpg

 

Here are the machined wheels in front of the stockers:

 

Lotus%2049B%204.jpg

 

On the rear wheels, I also cut off the rear flange and thinned the front flange from the inside. The new Riggen rubber will glue up easier now.

 

I'm still working on the wheel inserts...  :)


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#10 SlotStox#53

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 02:15 PM

Just one of the many reasons why a small lathe is so cool for these kind of wheel type situations. :D

Including those Cox rims you turned down to use as inserts. :good:

#11 dc-65x

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 02:11 PM

The wheels and tires are done. I apparently have a "wheel fetish" so I get them finalized before tackling the rest of the project. :crazy:    I used vintage Monogram Lola GT wheel inserts with black highlighting on their chrome surface:

 

Lotus%2049B%2015.jpg

 

Next up was the motor setup which is needed to build the chassis. I chose a motor with an East Coast flair... a Champion 525 can with a Mura "unmeltable" endbell. I made shims for the top and bottom of the endbell per Tony P's advice. The endbell screws are 0-80 stainless steel flat head machine screws:

 

Lotus%2049B%205.jpg

 

Here's the se-tup ready for chassis building duties. The hex brush holders are soldered to the brush hoods:

 

Lotus%2049B%2017.jpg

 

More East Coast parts with the Team Nutley B-motor axle tube and an unknown 16D motor bracket. The motor mount screws are 2-56 stainless steel machine screws. The motor box was made by my good buddy Steve Okeefe... thanks, Steve!  :good:

 

Lotus%2049B%2018.jpg

 

Time to fire up the soldering iron...


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#12 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 02:29 PM

The wayback is getting some good use with all these special endbells.  :D

Wheels came our great and good on Steve for bending all those motor boxes for you!

Have to finally get around to bending them for myself soon.  :shok:  Got the magazine article all ready for when I dare pick up the pliers.  :laugh2:



#13 Pablo

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 02:54 PM

Is that a 6t pinion?


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#14 dc-65x

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 04:13 PM

I waste so much piano wire the stock value of K&S Metals goes up when I try and bend up a motor box, Paul. :laugh2: It's a good thing the stuff is cheap.

 

Hi Pablo, the pinion is a used vintage 7t I'm using for set-up.


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#15 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 04:35 PM

Paul,

Practice using a piece of 1/16" brass rod before using piano wire. It's a lot easier re-bending brass rod so everything fits properly. Then duplicate what you bent in brass rod to piano wire.

If you have the two Steve Okeefe DVDs you have the dimensions that Steube and Warmack used, as well as a bending jig used by Warmack.

Bill Fernald
 

Some people burn rubber. I burn oil.  :roflmao: 


#16 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 05:08 PM

I hear you, Rick, will follow Bill's advice. :good:

Got some brass rod and the magazine scans that Rick posted of the motor box dimensions and the jig that Warmack made.

Still keep meaning to snag the DVDs, that is until more car parts turn up. :laugh2:

Wonder if R-Geo ever made a box jig? I seem to remember him mentioning one he'd done in one of Rick's build threads. Will have to ask him.

#17 Pablo

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 05:32 PM

Paul,

If you try Bill's advice on using rod as a test before bending wire, you may not need a motor box jig.

Do you think I bent these front axles perfectly first time? :
 
IMG_6851.JPG
 
Nope. I used brass rod and found the perfect bends before bending my precious tinned wires. :)  Exactly as Bill suggested.
 
Capt. Rick, please forgive me for infecting your angle F1 thread with a strange car photo. :o
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#18 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 05:51 PM

I hear you, Pablo. :good: Mighty fine bent floating axles. Can well imagine it's best to practice before using the tinned rod...

That reminds me, I've got some Phaze III pre-bent main rails to try using as well...

#19 dc-65x

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 09:23 PM

The motor box rear end is finished. Now I can have some fun by laying in the main rails. Soon it should start looking like a chassis. :dance3:
 
Lotus%2049B.jpg
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#20 dc-65x

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 04:35 PM

I made up all the main rails to be soldered in place at the same time:
 
Lotus%2049B%2019.jpg
 
Several of the rails needed to be angle cut to fit neatly against the motor box like so:
 
Lotus%2049B%2029.jpg
 
I've been doing this by hand with a cut-off wheel in my Dremel but using this disk sander with miter gauge made things neat and easy:
 
Lotus%2049B%2031.jpg
 
I also pre-cut and fitted the 1/4" brass strip motor box to main rail reinforcement piece:
 
Lotus%2049B%2020.jpg
 
Here's the center section soldered up:
 
Lotus%2049B%2025.jpg
 
Lotus%2049B%2026.jpg
 
The motor mount gets some added reinforcement:
 
Lotus%2049B%2022.jpg
 
Next up is the drop arm...
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#21 miko

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 05:37 PM

That is perfection, sir! Love your work!


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#22 SlotStox#53

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Posted 20 November 2015 - 06:37 PM

Tasty! With the center section all together I keep expecting to see big brass pans thinking it's a GT/Can-Am.  :D

Look forward to seeing what you have in store for a drop arm.  :good:



#23 Pablo

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Posted 21 November 2015 - 09:28 AM

:D  :popcorm1:


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#24 Tex

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Posted 21 November 2015 - 09:40 AM

Oh, ferchrissake Rick, you're killin' us here! 

 

Beautiful work. Superb craftsmanship.


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#25 dc-65x

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Posted 21 November 2015 - 10:27 PM

Hey, guys, I finally made the mods needed on the drop arm. At the back of the arm, two relief cuts to keep solder out of the pivot joint:

 

Lotus%2049B_1.jpg

 

At the front, two cuts for 1/16" brass rod guide pivot stops and a plumber hinge tube sits ready. Since I'll be running a low profile Jet flag in this "Cox guide" style drop arm, I opened up the guide pivot hole for a spacer bushing I machined up for the Jet flag.

 

Lotus%2049B%2016.jpg

 

Soldering is next.........


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#26 Pablo

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Posted 22 November 2015 - 08:24 AM

Like Tex said, it's all pretty sick, but the custom spacer to accommodate a Jet flag is really sick.  :heart:  :D 


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#27 SlotStox#53

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Posted 22 November 2015 - 11:54 AM

Thought you were using one of those 1/4-3/16" bearings reducers for a moment until I read you'd machined it.  :D

Epic!!



#28 dc-65x

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Posted 22 November 2015 - 09:44 PM

The drop arm is all soldered and buffed up:

 

Lotus%2049B%2033.jpg

 

Lotus%2049B%2035.jpg

 

Lotus%2049B%2034.jpg

 

Sorry for the weirdo coloring in my pictures. I've changed nothing but all of a sudden my pictures want to have a blue cast in the background. I've been messing with the "white balance" to try and fix it... no luck yet. :wacko2:


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#29 SlotStox#53

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Posted 22 November 2015 - 11:21 PM

Almost looks like you've used a filter/effect on the shots.

Rick, with the drop arm, did you do any shaping or trimming of the guide holder/tongue part besides soldering on that cool spacer?

#30 Pablo

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Posted 23 November 2015 - 12:40 AM

Rick,

 

I've had a similar problem with bodies not appearing the colors they really are.

 

n my computer screen, your pics have had a very slight bluish tint for a long time. (Adding a microdot of blue to white paint sometimes make it look even whiter.  :) )

You work is so stunningly perfect, it's not even noticeable :sun_bespectacled:


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 23 November 2015 - 11:42 AM

I don't know what's going on with my pictures, Pablo, I must just have the "blues" myself. :unknw:

 

Paul, the drop arm hasn't been reshaped, just opened up the guide pivot hole for the bushing and cut notches for the 1/16" guide rotation stops.


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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 23 November 2015 - 09:43 PM

I've got the chassis all done... I hope! :)

 

Lotus%2049B%2037.jpg

 

Lotus%2049B%2042.jpg

 

Lotus%2049B%2038.jpg

 

Lotus%2049B%2041.jpg

 

Now I've got to get the body to fit over the massive chassis and motor. :crazy:


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#33 SlotStox#53

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Posted 23 November 2015 - 11:31 PM

Pure vintage slot car porn.  :heart:

Good luck squeezing the chassis under that Lotus shell.  :good:

Saved your pictures to compliment the "how to" article you posted and Steve's cool diagram and chassis build pictures. Will help greatly in doing one of these.



#34 dc-65x

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Posted 29 November 2015 - 08:02 PM

It fits:clapping:

 

The real car had the sides of the body open around the motor. So does this one:

 

Lotus%2049B%2044.jpg

 

Lancer raised the back of the body up a bit more than the real car. Notice the "pipe" running down the side of the body is level with the track but the rear of the body is raised:

 

Lotus%2049B%2045.jpg

 

They might have done it for better rear downforce. :unknw: But it also allows the spur gear and a bit of the rear tires some clearance:

 

Lotus%2049B%2043.jpg

 

Lotus%2049B%2046.jpg

 

Now that I know the body will work I'm excited to get the motor painted, assembled and this car on the track for a test. :dance3:


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#35 SlotStox#53

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Posted 29 November 2015 - 08:15 PM

So relieved it fits! :D

One stunning car, Rick. Here's to a successful track report.

 

What color is it going to be?



#36 dc-65x

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Posted 29 November 2015 - 08:51 PM

Hi Paul,

 

I hope to use this livery:

 

Lotus%2049B%20Pics%206.jpg

 

With "little version" of Graham Hill at the wheel:

 

Lotus%2049B%20Pics%201.jpg

 

 


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#37 SlotStox#53

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Posted 29 November 2015 - 08:53 PM

That's just perfect.  :good:

Didn't know for sure if you'd go real life 1:1 or some cool vintage fogged type coloring.  :)



#38 dc-65x

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Posted 03 December 2015 - 01:00 PM

Time to turn this "jig motor" into a race motor:

 

Lotus%2049B%2017.jpg

 

The heart of the beast, a new old stock Thorp D28 armature:

 

Lotus%2049B%201.jpg

 

To try and tame this savage beast is a freshly-zapped Champion Arco DZ magnet and shim set:

 

Lotus%2049B%206.jpg

 

The other parts are a Champion 525 can with a fresh coat of black wrinkle paint (except for the tinned and masked of area where the motor will be soldered into the frame). Also being used are Mura endbell, shunted brushes, brush springs, and spring post protectors.

 

Lotus%2049B%2049.jpg

 

This motor runs smooth as silk and settled down to a 1 amp draw during its 2 volt break-in:

 

Lotus%2049B%2050.jpg

 

I hope to hit the track for testing soon...


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#39 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 December 2015 - 01:49 PM

Thorp double arm, DZ magnets, Mura endbell of the unmeltable kind = :D

Just the perfect parts list right out of the magazine ads!

#40 Pablo

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Posted 03 December 2015 - 04:23 PM

:sun_bespectacled:


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#41 dc-65x

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Posted 03 December 2015 - 10:18 PM

Okie-dokie, guys, I couldn't help myself. Check out these stacks and honkin' pipes:

 

Lotus%2049B%20Pics%202.jpg

 

For pipes (exhaust pipe "trumpets") I've been using these vintage packaged pieces pictured below:

 

Lotus%2049B%2048.jpg

 

I'm almost out of them so I've come up with a paint brush alternative:

 

Lotus%2049B%2054.jpg

 

I also found the velocity stacks to be too large for my taste but with a bit of grinding with my Dremel cut-off wheel I think they will work:

 

Lotus%2049B%2055.jpg

 

But first I needed a good strong foundation for the exhaust trumpets to finish off the chassis:

 

Lotus%2049B%2052.jpg

 

I think this should further stiffen up the rear end which I hope will help tame any "anglewinder GP chattering" in the corners:

 

Lotus%2049B%2053.jpg

 

The exhaust trumpets are epoxied over the piano wire:

 

Lotus%2049B%2056.jpg

 

OK, now it's time to assemble the roller for testing...


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#42 Tex

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 08:54 AM

Those "Concours D'Elegance" pieces look like they could be repops of pieces supplied with Du-Bro bodies... very nicely done.


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#43 dc-65x

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 11:31 AM

Hi Tex,

 

Yup, you're right about those "pipes and stacks". They were originally supplied with the Du-Bro Sheraton Thompson Indy Special body. :)


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#44 dc-65x

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Posted 07 December 2015 - 10:00 PM

Track test:

 

Lotus%2049B%2057.jpg

 

The motor's soldered in and runs smooth and sweet:

 

Lotus%2049B%2061.jpg

 

I want to get the body finished and mounted before I see how it really handles...

 

Lotus%2049B%2059.jpg

 

... but I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out so far:

 

Lotus%2049B%2060.jpg

 

Testors rattle can time... :)


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 08 December 2015 - 08:18 AM

You could use the drop arm as a mirror to shave.  :sun_bespectacled:


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#46 Neckcheese

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Posted 08 December 2015 - 01:08 PM

Indycals has the Gold Leaf decals in 1/24 for your project
 
1968 Lotus 49B
 
68lotus49b-small.jpg
 
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#47 dc-65x

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Posted 08 December 2015 - 09:29 PM

Thanks, Niels, I've got them on order now. :)

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#48 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 December 2015 - 10:37 PM

Fully-fitted roller looks amazing, Rick. :good: With those decals Niels linked you to the icing on the cake. :D

#49 Mbloes

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Posted 09 December 2015 - 04:05 PM

Rick,

How do you get your car to "hook up" on your track with that sponge? Do you use glue?
Mike Bloes

#50 dc-65x

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Posted 09 December 2015 - 06:05 PM

Mike,

I use a "dot" of Koford light glue in front of each turn. Then I run a flexi around and around the track to spread a very thin coat of glue. Mike Swiss talks about the method in this POST.
 


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