52 replies to this topic

[eggsplurt]

Just joined up and try to meet here in NJ the first Thursday of each month at The Race Place with Pete L. and a few others.

 

Just to ask... how have you guys, if anyone, mounted a re-pop BadMan on a stock Monogram chassis? Looks like the original had two stems with the inserts in them coming down below the trunklid.

 

I have the Professor Motor front mount and was looking for ideas on the rear...

 

Steve

[Gary Bluestone]

Here's what I use, Strombecker track pylons and feet, fitted with stock brass inserts.

 

Fit a new or used insert into a suitable pylon rod. If you salvage old inserts, push the expansion plate back up where it came from and gently squeeze the insert back to its unopened shape. Put a screw into it and heat carefully with a soldering iron until hot enough to swell the plastic without cracking it, while slowly screwing the screw to expand the insert.

 

Glue the feet to the body, you may need a shim of similar colored plastic to prevent the black from showing through on the Badman yellow body. Screw the pylon to the chassis and test fit for length. Cut when correct and glue pylon to foot. You may be able to see a bit of the front post on this Predicta.

 

[eggsplurt]

Neat...

 

I have a couple of original Scarab bodies that are beat with similar but shorter stock posts for the rear. Although they are blue, I just need to make up the distance to the inside of the trunklid.

 

I am toying with the idea of a nicely-trimmed piece of balsa block glued with clear 3M 5200... It is brutal stuff and takes seven days to cure...

[Lone Wolf]

Steve, welcome aboard.

 

I think you just purchased a Cox driver from me on eBay and I thank you for that.

 

I build lots of hardbody cars and use various mounting procedures.

 

Here is a simple method I often use. Here is a build I just completed using a Monogram '37 Ford panel.

 

 

I use the Plastruct product shown here. A package should last you years. Sometimes I tap it for a screw as shown here, but usually I sink an insert in with a soldering iron as Gary suggested. I make gussets as shown using .040" Evergreen sheet. Here I used one but you can use more if the post is longer. I crazy glue it in while it is screwed to the chassis to get the wheels centered in the wells. A pet peeve of mine. After it dries a little I go around the glued area again with some more glue for strength.

 

 

Happy to answer any questions if you have them. 

 

PS: Save those Scarab posts for the Monogram reissue kits that have no posts. You can use them to make these bodies drop right on to Monogram chassis. 

 

Joe

 

 

[Pete L.]

Steve,

 

Here's my way of doing it. I use the tube that comes in new shoe boxes, along with the knurled fittings as suggested above. Cut a length or two of the tubing a little longer than you know you'll need. Insert the knurled fittings on a cut end and screw the parts onto your chassis. Then it's a question of trial and error 'til you find the right length.

 

I also used the gusseted method of attaching the tubes to the body that Joe mentions above. I've used five-minute epoxy in the past and it seemed to work well...

 

PS: My Badman replica will be getting some work done on it soon.

 

Pete L.

 

 

 

[Lone Wolf]

Wow, Pete. 
 
Someone actually cheaper than me. 
 
Only problem, I have not bought new shoes in over 20 years.  

[Pete L.]

Joe,

 

 I didn't say I actually "bought" the shoes...

[eggsplurt]

Good speaking with you today on the phone Pete.....And, Thanks for the reply Joe and Gary.....Aside from my original Monograms and OEM chassis for my '55 body and a '40 Ford Pick-Up....all my other stuff are generic like IROC cars......I built these 25 years ago using a Parma #583 Flexi-Chassis....a MURA Group 12...Ferret brass extender...and 4 1/8 x 7/8 tires for the corners.......All told I made about a dozen of these things with a myriad of bodies....You name it....AMT....Revell...MPC...Johan...Monogram..Lindberg....etc....ditch everything but the body, glass, and chrome.....Index card interiors with a light spattering of color for contrast taped in with Original Cox and Monogram drivers......reinforcement of the chrome glued in place is constituted with 3M 5200.....In lieu of silicone........I'll have to take some pics of my mounting process....Pete has seen them at our 1st Thursday meetings at The Race Place......I'm 56 and been around these slot cars since I can remember....I have my Dad's Monogram '34 Ford Coupe that I watched Him build at the kitchen table in 1967.....Just can't seem to put them away I guess and my son and I have a lot of fun with them.....always seems to be something new to make on the horizon ..........You guys want to chat you can call me at 732-530-2061......and thanks again.....Steve

[eggsplurt]

Just finished putting together 2 bone stock chassis for the early Monogram cars......I have everything I need for the body of a '55 Chevy from a NIB Badman.........Pete L gave me some styrene rod and inserts for the back mounts and Professor Motor supplied the front.........Should be a very cool unit......

[eggsplurt]

I just acquired the box for the Monogram '40 Ford Pick-Up......It looks to be about an 8.5 to a 9....Condition wise....Inside looks to be a mix of original white parts and a molded blue one...........I thought the static kit only came molded in red, yellow, and white.???.......It also has the never used decal sheet intact......Instructions......Very Cool.......If anybody would like a full color copy on crack & peel of the box or a copy of the decal sheet and instructions, all it will cost you is shipping and coffee money....too cool to keep to myself........Also, I am looking for just a full color copy of the following Monogram Slot Cars.......The '36 Ford.....'55 Chevy....And the T-Bird..........Steve.....N.J....732-530-2061.....

[MattD]

The first issue model kit of the pickup was molded in turquoise blue. The slot car was molded in the off white. Same molds.
1963, I think.

[eggsplurt]

Cool.......Yes, turquoise blue it is..........Going to look great mounted and running.......

[MattD]

The big Monogram cars look good on the shelf, but they are not very good runners. Here is a pic of a few kits I used to have!

[eggsplurt]

Use to have?........I am to assume you sold all 4?......

[MattD]

Sold them all by word of mouth. Stuff like that is worth too much to leave on a shelf where it can burn, flood or get stolen. Best to see them in a secure place like Scott has built.

Some guys have given ridiculous amounts for slot car kits. Funniest story I know of is a guy buying a kit for over 10K and calling me the next day to tell me what a great investment it was. I think "whoa", only one guy in the world thought it was worth that much and it is you! Investment? That kit may be worth 4K today! Only a loss of about 8k on that kit.

[eggsplurt]

The HO Aurora Competition Pacs complete before 2008 were going for about $3500.00....If you could find one. Yeah, I've had a few 1/24's in the boxes I had come across and let go for similair reasons........It's kind of fun getting them now and repairing things or adapting.......Charm and Character......

[Gary Bluestone]

The Monogram Stockers as they are know, originally came with a 16D motor and steel gear, these do not run great.

 

However swapping the motor for something like a Cox 16D and nylon gears makes these competitive with the later versions. We did modify some Slotworks motors to fit but these are actually too fast for this class.

 

We run these in a "Monogram Class" with stock wheels and tires, and these are some of the best, most fun racing. The later version uses a different chassis which uses a endbell drive long shaft 36D and these are terrific. I have one fitted with a Russkit 36D and it is also great.

 

 

[Detroit Dave]

Sounds like a great time!  I love the Mongram Stockers.  Here's a t-bird with a few changes to make it lower and quicker.

 

[eggsplurt]

Those are nice Gary....My plan is to make 1 of each of the re-issue 1940 Ford Pick-Ups in Red, Turquoise, Yellow, and White....The '55 in Yellow from a Badman and Street Machine parts .....And the '58 T-Bird in Black....I also have the '34 Ford in Burgundy kit form.....Easy enough for that one too with Professor Motor body mounts......Your Blue '55 pictured, ....is that a molded Blue re-issue?.....Steve

[Gary Bluestone]

That 55 is the original vintage model kit, first issued in Blue and/or Red. Note the fender skirts ! Don't forget about the orange 40 P/U, there are also 2 shades of red. There are also some 2 different 36 Fords in Beige and Brown and a 34 in Green. Right now I'm working on a silver 540K and looking for a cream one.

[eggsplurt]

Trying again...

 

[eggsplurt]

Hey Dave.....is your '58 T-Bird original or a re-issue?......I see some of the kits molded in black......

[Detroit Dave]

I picked up the Monogram kit with 3 t-birds in it (56, 58, 88) Called Evolution of the Legend.  Because it had a white 58 bird in it.  I had to modify it to look like  the 59 Cotton Owens Thunder Chick a little bit.  The Grill was horizontal bars and the side trim had a chrome accent.  

[eggsplurt]

It's a great alternative to buy the re-issue in like or different molded colors.....Professor Motor makes the mounts and Plastruct tubing is easy enough to install with gussets as described above......It's more difficult to come up up with the stock chassis and components.......The stock Mabuchi 16d is fun and the 36d X-200 is cool!........They are what they and I love them.........Pete and I were discussing today viable non-damaging paint removal from styrene.......So, what are you guys having success with in this area?......

[MattD]

Castrol Super Clean is the best I have found, doesn't hurt the plastic but removes all paint, even old lacquer sometimes. If it doesn't take the lacquer off, it is plenty dry to paint over. It also takes off plating, so beware.