16 replies to this topic

[mike1972chev]

Hey guys,

 

After looking around this sight,I am a bit inspired to try a brass tube chassis again. I am wanting to do a simple  in line motor 36 D "old timey" early 60s build with a drop arm and with GOOD body mounting ideas.(I will leave those complex "jail door" chassis and the likes to the pros and you know who you are !    ) This will be going with one of my vintage bodies in the "to be assembled" cabinet. I want it OLD looking and KOOL! 

 

 

Any suggestions for specific brand of brass tubing,solder choices ,BEST parts,pieces to buy and assembly techniques  is appreciated. 

 

 

 

Also,Any best practice from keeping solder off of brass areas you DO NOT want solder to end up????

 

 

All,replies any any photos are appreciated.

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Best advice for brass tubing chassis:
"There isn't enough time in one's life to just learn from one's mistakes. You must also learn from the mistakes of others"

I built one once and learned my lesson. It was pure evil no matter how much I tried to tune it and make it work.

Greg Gilbert looked at it and said "Yeah, Pablo, I built one of those back in the day. It was horrible".

 

I scrapped mine, went back to brass rod, and the car was fine.

 

Keeping solder off/out:

-ATF

-Sharpie ink

-White Out

-masking tape

[mike1972chev]

I have no problem with using brass rod instead of tubing. It will still  have the same look. Would imagine it would make it MUCH more rigid .

[Pablo]

60/40 solder is fine, use with acid flux.

 

The best way to do a build is select the body first, then everything else follows.

Nothing worse than spending days building something that won't fit in the end.

 

But since you are set with an inline 36D with drop arm, I'd recommend a Dynamic motor bracket.

Maybe a custom made .063" thick brass sheet drop arm. Of course you can't solder to it, so you'll have to improvise.

Then select a body that will fit that combo, and all the parts required will follow from there.

 

I really don't see how you can possibly stay away from a jail door design for an inline 36D, though.

A big heavy motor requires a big heavy chassis and a tall, wide body.

Also, a 36D inline is going to want to twist a lot upon acceleration/deceleration.

 

If you can't find enough ideas right here on Slotblog, maybe try here also:

 

http://scratchbuilt.com/

[Bill from NH]

A good style body to hide a 36D motor in are stockcars & trucks. Maybe a few others too. I once bought some 2" wide .063 brass strips on eBay. I paid more in postage than I paid for the brass. Then there was a closed New Orleans hobby shop where I bought another stash of brass. What I'm saying is, it's usually cheaper if you can buy brass in your own backyard. If you have any Ace Hardware stores in your area, they usually carry K&S brass & wire, as well as hobby shops & RC places. When you need sheet brass, looked for damaged brass door kick plates at your local home centers. Often heavily discounted, they're usually over .050" thick.

[Dave Crevie]

Sounds like you are actually looking for something pre-36D. Think about using a Pittman or KTM

motor instead.

[slotcarone]

Mike here is a chassis design that will work for you. Of course use the bracket for your motor choice.

[slotcarone]

 Not understanding your question about keeping solder off places you don't want it. The solder only goes where you put acid and touch the tip to.

[Ramcatlarry]

My first 'chassis jig' was a 2 x 4 that I cut slots with a table saw into to lay the tubing into - a very simple ladder shaped layout.   1961 or so...   If the cross wise tubes are not notched in 'v' or half round, the solder joint breaks more easily.   I like the old Kemtron brass kits, now for the old motors.  Scotchbrite all areas to be soldered.

 

Modern chassis jigs can make magic happen.

[MSwiss]

 Not understanding your question about keeping solder off places you don't want it. The solder only goes where you put acid and touch the tip to.

He might not have a fine enough tip, flux brush, or not a hot enough, or the wrong shape, soldering iron tip.

Regardless, Mike, your posting as someone, as your jaildoor chassis exhibits, who builds chassis, extremely meticulously.

Here's a chassis from slot racing's most prolific chassis builder;
http://slotblog.net/...l-beaver-canam/

That's how they look when you err on the side of, better a little too much, than not enough, acid flux.

[slotcarone]

Tony is the Master for sure!! If we build them to race we have to put the correct amount of solder to hold it together!  

[mike1972chev]

This is a VERY good conversation. I have never built a slot car towards any rules,so this might get a bit complex as to what goes on here???

 

Replying to Pablo MSwiss and slotcarone:

 

#1 I am guessing these complex chassis/cars are being built against the  rules for which they are being raced? Would this type of car be usable at races at just any tracks across the U.S.A.?? (I know this might be a bit of a "loaded" question???)

 

#2 Are there certain specifications/dimensions these fall with in????(Continuation of question #1 I am guessing???)

 

#3 What size of brass rod ,tubing ,motor mounts ,ETC ,am I buying? I need a "shopping list"  of what to be getting?

[slotcarone]

Mike the chassis I posted is for our Retro Jail door class rules but that really doesn't matter. You could adjust for the body you are using. Only 1/16 brass rod for the rails, 3/32 for the drop arm hinge and 5/32 for the axle tubes. And the bracket for your motor. On that chassis all the rails are the same except the inner ones.

[Pablo]

Michael, if you care to see the build thread of my failed and extremely evil tilting pile tube chassis car, it's here:

 

http://slotblog.net/...and-prix-entry/

 

See posts 116,178,208,226,235, and final destruction in post 243

I had some classic arm balancing failures also

 

I did a new chassis for the car using rod, see post 265 and final photos post 274.

That car ended up with a Steve Okeefe arm in a Pablo setup, and went on to win the R & C proxy race in California.

[Ramcatlarry]

Basic materials:  brass rod, tubing and sheet stock and steel piano wire from K & S Metals.  They sell 'metal center' displays that are part of most hardware stores and should be part of every credible raceway.  Some mail order sources include McMaster-Carr, Inc a hardware store used by many factories for projects.

[mike1972chev]

Against my better judgement and due to all of the above posting.I think I will be trying my skills at a brass rod/piano wire chassis here in the near future. This will be awhile out as I have many to do ahead of this. I will be needing a much more sophisticated chassis jig for this one. (you all get ready for a TON of questions and PMs in your boxes. 

 

Any certain wheel base should I be considering? Or just make it match any certain body?  (I have a few of them now.)

[Bill from NH]

Choose your body firat, then set your wheelbase. If you were building a car for  retro racing, your wheelbase would be around 4" & guide lead about . 9"-1.00". But the body you choose may differ. Many bodies don't have a standard width either. Two good chassis jigs to look at are RGEO's & Precision's. You could also build on a honeycomb ceramic block sold by some slot car parts places, jewelry making sites, & others, such as eBay.These ceramic blocks are especially good if you're going to do any torch soldering.