52 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

Now this looks better all cleaned up:

 

 

 

Unlike the original chassis I chose to place my body mount pin tubes alongside the pan hinge wires. I'm also using the drop arm hinge rod as a pan up-stop instead of a separate piece soldered to the mail rails:

 

 

Here is a pan in action showing the longer arm length allowed by hinging them farther inboard: I don't know if this really matters but it's one of the features of the original chassis I liked the look of:

 

 

Here is a comparo with the original chassis:

 

 

 

Time to put all the pieces on this chassis and make a car out of it..........

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Wheeeeeeeeeeee      I just never get tired of drooling over it

[slotbaker]

Nothing else to say, really....

[olescratch]

Awesome!  How long does it take to polish a chassis like that?  Are you doing this by hand, or with the aid of power tools?  I keep going back just looking at the thing, and it was a definite up-grade!  Looking the design over (again) I'd like to ask is there something going on the other side of the Duffie's, or is it left open?

[dc-65x]

Thanks guys. John, The "duffies" just get a pair of 1/4"X1/8" ball bearing. I do most of my cleanup and polishing by hand. It's my final step in the chassis build and I've been doing it that way since I was a teenager in the 60's. Old habits die hard! 

[dc-65x]

The pieces-parts have come together to create the roller.

 

I couldn't bring myself to use the stiff as a board braid that came with the Dynamic guide shown on the left and replaced it with the soft Phase III braid shown next to it.

 

The Phase III braid had to be solder up, a hole drilled and the excess brass trimmed off to fit into the Dynamic gizmo shown on the right:

 

 

Crown gears. This build is late enough that I'm using the far superior Weldun gear instead of the much weaker Cox gear the original car used:

 

 

Check out how much beefier the Weldun gear (shown on the right) is compared to an equivalent Cox gear:

 

 

 

 

The finished roller:

 

 

 

Here's my "inspirational" original car followed by my version:

 

 

 

Now comes the hard part, for me anyway...........the body.  

[dc-65x]

I been trying to figure out how I can make up some big honkin pipes for the Harvey. For better or worse, I came up with four 1/16" tubes stuffed into a 5/32" tube:

 

 

Here are the rest of the goodies for the body:

 

 

I've got decals from Indycals and a pretty good idea for a shop car style "fantasy livery"................

[Jairus]

Nice pipes! 

[olescratch]

Ditto on the pipes!

[Alchemist]

Greetings Rick!

 

It's been a while.

 

Your craftsmanship always amazes me.

 

What a masterpiece!

 

I always appreciate it when you share your build details.

 

Thank you.

 

Ernie

[dc-65x]

Thanks Ernie

 

Wish me luck...............I'm...........ARG...............painting.

 

The first 2 colors on a tri-color metallic livery:

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

I built my first Harvey back in 1967. I've collected the parts to build another. It's about time I get it done.,

[dc-65x]

Sounds good Bill, we'd love to see it.

 

My tri-color rattle can fantasy livery worked! 

 

[Pablo]

[dc-65x]

More progress:

 

 

The decals I'm going to try are from IndyCals. They are for the previous year of Harvey Aluminum Special but fit this non scale fantasy livery handling body best. I photocopied the decals and test fit them to the body before paint:

 

 

I gave the decals a light coat of Testors Clear lacquer and will see what happens..............

[Pablo]

Lacquer over waterslide decals?   

Are those the kind where you cut them off to size, or they are already cut and slide off right size?

Does that make sense?

 

And won't lacquer shrivel up a waterslide decal?

 

I feel like I'm in the audience at a magic show and the guy saws a box in half with a woman in it

[dc-65x]

Hi Paul,

 

These decals have to be trimmed to shape. Jairus clued me into using Testors clear coat for decals. 

[Pablo]

OK I'm a believer. I looked at my Testor's Decal Bonder 9200 rattle can, and it is marked "Lacquer"

 

Lacquer allegedly "bites" into clear bodies a little (which is why it shouldn't be used on thin non-Lexan® bodies) -

yet it doesn't shrivel up and melt a decal. Weird to me. I learned something, thanks Capt. Rick

[Jairus]

It's an old trick that seals the decal and keeps cracked old decals from falling apart in the water.
 

[dc-65x]

Also, on new super thin film decals it builds them up a bit so I don't get them all wadded up during my ham-fisted application.

[dc-65x]

The Harvey all finished and on the track:

 

 

How everything fits inside the flat as a pancake body:

 

 

More finished images:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Onward to the next project

[Martin]

Nice one Rick, Very sharp, nice details.

[Pablo]

[Bill from NH]

Another winner! I really like the extra body detailing. I think it adds a lot.

[slotbaker]

Awesome....