158 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Spur gear will probably arrive tomorrow....meanwhile, I'm anxious 

 

This would be impossible for me without dc-65x's thread.

I truly appreciate the history, and I'm grateful dc-65x rose above it all and kept it alive.

 

I soldered some pieces onto grooverunner's masterpiece "drop arm" tonight.

Just laying the pieces down and soldering them is easy. But doing it "right" takes a lot of work. I hope I nailed it

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Still waiting on the Faas gear, but trust me, it's coming

Meanwhile, I did a test run on painting an open cockpit Porsche 917 - good thing I bought several 

 

Just so happens this body is legal for a flexi class I race, so I used this one as a pre-test just to see:

-what the colors would look like - Parma White and Model Master Grape Pearl

-how it will trim and mount for the Joel car, air control, spoiler, and clear things like the motor, flag, wheels, etc.

 

I put inside decals on the test body but they are just to gussy it up for flexi racing.

Both white and purple worked fine - gave me a chance to see how they work as far as PSI, backup, coverage, etc

 

[Pablo]

It's beginning to look like Christmas - got the 42 Faas in the mail, and UPS brought a box of holiday Omaha Steaks 

Special thanks to the undisclosed gear donor, and it bears repeating, without good friends this would be impossible

 

Standard rear axle mock up to determine tube length, using all the actual parts. Looks like about 1.235"

 

[Pablo]

Poor Man's lathe (electric drill), a Dremel with 409 cutoff wheel, 400 and 2,000 grit sandpapers.

Ends are perfectly concentric and polished

 

[Samiam]

You're a thou over.

[Pablo]

That's the beauty of cheap digital calipers, Sam, I can vary the measurement by a thou or two

 

My plan here is to solder home the new ball bearings from the start, and simply keep them clean.

I notched the tubes in 4 places to allow solder to flow.

I'll use silver solder so the joints won't melt when I apply 60/40 nearby to attach chassis wires n whatnot.

 

[Pablo]

Tubing centered, gear and jig blocks in place

 

 

 

Next step will be notching the tube to get the motor in tight as possible

[olescratch]

Looking good! You can't help but learn from these tutorials, and there are many of us that will admit to needing tutoring!  What keeps the solder from getting into the bearings?

[Pablo]

Good question, John, I'll try and remember to explain that when I solder them.

 

What good is a jig motor if it isn't exactly the same as the real motor? Not much.

Trimming the tube and setting the motor angle to fit the jig motor, then realizing the real motor won't fit, sucks.

 

To preclude that from happening, I did the best I could by:

-using exactly the same brand and size pinion on both

-ensuring the length from can end to pinion is exactly the same (Krazy Glued both pinions in place temporarily)

-Krazy Gluing a junk magnet in the jig can to emulate the real motor's magnet setup

 

 

Here's another thing that sucks - making a perfect axle tube, planning the notch, cutting it and realizing it's not perfect.

This time I made a rough aluminum tube, put some old BB's in it, and jigged it up as a test mule for the notching.

If I screw one up I'll just toss it until I succeed, then make an identical cut to the good one

 

[Pablo]

The final tube notch cut

 

 

Jig motor snuggled right in there nice n tight

 

[Pablo]

Looking good! You can't help but learn from these tutorials, and there are many of us that will admit to needing tutoring!  What keeps the solder from getting into the bearings?

 

Soldering ball bearings can be tricky.

I always apply ATF in a needle oiler bottle wherever I don't want acid and solder to flow

 

[Pablo]

The Koford M333 solder flowed nice.

Merry Christmas and Good Night

 

[Jairus]

Looking great! Night.

[bluecars]

How do you keep the bearings from being contaminated when tumbling at the end?

[Pablo]

Contaminated by what? BB's come out of my tumbler absolutely perfect every time.

[tonyp]

I go over my race cars after each race reset the front axle and tumble with no issues.


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[Pablo]

My grooverunner drop arm seemed longer than the Camen part Capt. Rick used.

I measured an "888" arm at 2.633" from the coined edge to the back, so I trimmed mine.

If it's not historically perfect, I don't mind, and I don't consider it a critical measurement

 

[olescratch]

Thanks for the reply.  Seems like I got the answers to a couple more issues that may come up.

[grooverunner]

Paul,

You are right to trim it .I make them longer on the back end so you can trim them to any length you my need. Think 4 1/2'' chassis.

 

Ken

[Pablo]

Cool, thanks Ken. It's working out perfectly for me.

[Pablo]

Of all the intricate wire work in the rear end, this 3 bend piece is probably the most critical to get right.

It mandates the motor attachment position - get it wrong and things aren't going to fit.

 

This is the situation I touched on earlier about the importance of being able to slip the actual motor in for a check.

Never assume if the jig motor shoehorns in, all is OK.

 

I cheated a little by using .055 wire - easier to bend and it allowed me to keep the motor as far left as possible

 

[Pablo]

Tack and a check. Yup, it's tight but it's perfect

 

[Pablo]

Finally I can get the rare 45+ year old Gunther Faas gear out away from the "acid party" and polish it.

It's not something you can just walk down to your local slot shop and grab another one

 

[Pablo]

My rear end is done

 

 

[dc-65x]

Nice rear end Pablo........ ...............I mean great looking center section Pablo