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Soldering iron selection


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#51 Pablo

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Posted 19 January 2018 - 05:35 PM

The cord seemed very stiff when I first started using it but i guess I got used to it. I still think about cutting the outer cover off it.

I had this problem with my Hakko 454. Very awkward to use, it seemed like it was always fighting me with the stiff cord.

Rotate the cord where it comes out of the tool so it lays right over your wrist with the chisel tip in the position you want it.

This simple adjustment makes a world of difference. Pick the tool up and it is instantly an extension of your hand.

Try it, Eddie, and let me know.


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#52 MSwiss

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Posted 19 January 2018 - 06:40 PM

I liked the Hakko 936 so much I bought another one before they changed. Best iron I've ever used.   Mr. Swiss you are a funny man.

Last night, my unpaid helper, Jim, asked if I had seen his dolly.

I shot back "Your blow-up dolly?"


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#53 brucefl

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 02:47 PM

You get used to it after awhile.


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tony what flux do you use(acid flux if so what brand etc.)thanks


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#54 slotcarone

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 08:57 PM

I think you will find most chassis builders including myself use the Sta Clean acid flux. But it's all about cleaning the parts well before you solder! :)


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#55 tonyp

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 01:47 AM

Same as Mike Katz Sta Clean acid.


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#56 zipper

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 05:09 AM

Stay-Clean® Liquid Flux - last 45 years.


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#57 gjc2

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 06:55 AM

I use Lucky Bob's acid flux.

 

Most of the soldering I do is lead wire, oilites/ball bearings, motor installation, repairs, occasionally adding a "do-dad" to a chassis and some electronics soldering. 

 

Lucky Bob's has served me well. 


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#58 Samiam

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 08:01 AM

George,

 

I hope you're not using your Lucky Bob's acid on your lead wires and electronics. A big NO NO !


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#59 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 10:26 AM

When you use liquid acid flux for electric hook-ups, you pay the price later in broken lead wires and corroded controllers or circuit boards. Zinc chloride is acid, but not as strong - and some paste flux is water soluable and clean up very easy.


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#60 Mattb

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 10:47 AM

I am sure Lucky Bob's is the same as Staybrite, it just costs about 1000 times more for that little bottle then the big bottle of Staybrite.


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#61 Cheater

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 10:57 AM

Just realized this thread was misplaced and have moved it to General Technical.

Yeah, sometimes I am real slow to figure things out... LOL.

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#62 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 11:18 AM

I am sure Lucky Bob's is the same as Staybrite, it just costs about 1000 times more for that little bottle then the big bottle of Staybrite.

 

It probably is now, but I recall about 10-12 years ago when Lucky Bob's flux didn't work with SS. About the same time JK came out with the first Cheetah 7s, Lucky Bob's came out with a new flux. The part number remained the same with an "S" added because the new flux was for SS too..


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#63 Half Fast

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 01:06 PM

AFAIK Lucky Bobs is Sulfuric acid not Zinc chloride.
 
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#64 Mattb

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 02:24 PM

I tried a couple of the zinc chloride fluxes and didn't think they worked as good as the pure acid of Stay Clean.   How has it worked for you guys?


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#65 gjc2

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 02:30 PM

George,
 
I hope you're not using your Lucky Bob's acid on your lead wires and electronics. A big NO NO !


Ive used it for years without any problems.
I clean solder joints with CRC QD spray.
George Cappello

#66 MSwiss

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 02:40 PM

I use acid all the time for lead wires.

IMO,it works better/quicker, so there is less wicking.

I drench everything with water after soldering, regardless of what it is.

My rule of thumb on good flux.

If you get it on your hands, and your skin tingles enough, you instinctly get up to find a water faucet to rinse it off, it's good.
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Mike Swiss
 
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
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Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)
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17B West Ogden AveWestmont, IL 60559, ( 708) 203-8003
mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address) 
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516
Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#67 Nate Graham

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 12:20 PM

good points on flux. Acid with power even as needed to get the part tinned and solder flowing but stay away from acids for electronics.

Now, one of our "fast guys" uses acid for everything figuring that by the time it hardens and damages the wiring, he is on to a new chassis or setup or has had to replace the wire for other reasons. i.e., life span of the joint is low enough that it does not matter. I see his point. being brought up in circuit work - 40 years an Amateur radio operator and circuit builder - I avoid acid until needed for chassis work like we did in the old days of making tube chassis'.

 

Consider this, when you need flux, use a rosin core solder with enough rosin in it so the solder flows well. Not all brands are equal. If you need more, add rosin flux. it is available in liquid and dispenses well from a small syringe. Sticky enough that it stays put.  I use a 3cc with either a small blunt needle or one of the new plastic needles hospitals use for the new "needle less" systems for their IV's. safe and doesn't get people kinky that you have an injection needle. 


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#68 Markomatic

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 01:43 PM

I use Sta-Brite for chassis stuff and the first tinning of a motor before putting it in the chassis. For soldering motors in and for electrical I use Kester 186 liquid rosin flux. There is less cleanup and does not eat the plating from steel or aluminum chassis.
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