67 replies to this topic

[Jeff Bechtel]

Larry I have used the Lenk brand soldering irons for over 20 years.  I thought that they had stopped making them.  I believe Mike Swiss had used these for a while also.

[MSwiss]

Not that I remember.

 

I used Ungar/Weller's, until they got real bad for awhile.

 

I then went with the Hakko 936 with the larger element.

 

I loved it.

 

It was super-light and just hot enough to, to put together, and take motors out of, a Koford aluminum chassis.

 

At the 2003 Nat's, I started building my Pro G27 chassis, after tech opened,( and was not the last one to tech).

 

When we started doing Retro in 2007, it just wasn't hot enough, to do the type of chassis, we were building in the beginning.

[MSwiss]

I sell and have a 50 watt Weller (Ungar) at my work station.
 
It just seems a bit lethargic so I just ordered a Hakko 601.
 
I'm hoping it's better, but regardless, having 2 irons plugged in, at once, makes motor removal on something like a Cheetah 7, with the motor soldered on top, much easier.
 
I really got spoiled by the 100 watt Inland, when they were available.
 
Despite being a bit clunky, you just couldn't argue with the heat.
 
IMO, it was either 1200 degrees, or at the very least, easily had the most superior recovery rate of any iron I ever used.

I just got in the 601.

Does anyone know what that little blue, forked thing, zip tied to the power cord, does?

[old & gray]

I just got in the 601.

Does anyone know what that little blue, forked thing, zip tied to the power cord, does?

 

I believe it is for setting and securing the temperature control to a fixed temperature for a production environment. 

 

There is a mention of it in the material on the package or a slip of paper inside.

[Bob Kurkowski]

Unger for close to 50 years. Going from a Weller gun to a Unger was like going from a cheap stick welder to a tig welder. I personally feel the Unger shields or deflects the heat that creeps up the handle while in use better then a Hakko.

 

Bob K.

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[gjc2]

There's a company called American Beauty Tools that make a line of soldering irons, some are very high power units. I don't have any experience with them.

 

Here's a link . . . . . . https://americanbeautytools.com/

[Racer36]

I was going to ask what that little gizmo is that came with my 601! I havent been able to find a use for it. Do you have to remove the adjustment knob to utilize it Bob Schlain?

[MSwiss]

I believe it is for setting and securing the temperature control to a fixed temperature for a production environment. 
 
There is a mention of it in the material on the package or a slip of paper inside.

.No info what so ever in the packaging.

Thanks for the info.

Also big thanks to Ron Bryce for getting me the info, via Greg Wells.

I look forward to using the iron.

The tip size and and shape looks pretty ideal.

The cord does seem a bit on the stiff side.

[MSwiss]

I was going to ask what that little gizmo is that came with my 601! I havent been able to find a use for it. Do you have to remove the adjustment knob to utilize it Bob Schlain?

Yes.

From Ron Bryce;

[Racer36]

Thanks Gentlemen!

[Racer36]

Tony P advised me to use it WFO, so I suspect I won’t be using this neat little feature.

[brucefl]

Now best solder and fluxes.

We used to use 60/40 tin lead,but I'm afraid for whatever brain cells I have left and not wanting to promote use of brain damaging lead fumes.

[Jay Guard]

Bruce:

You can't go wrong with the Hakko FX-601, probably the best all around iron out there right now.  As for solder 60/40 rosin core is still the most used solder and will work for virtually all your slot car soldering needs.  As for flux, use a rosin core solder and RMA (Rosin Mildly Activated) flux for electrical connections.  Use an acid flux containing zinc chloride and hydrochloric acid for chassis work,  You don't have to clean the electrical joints with RMA flux but it's a good idea.  However you must clean any chassis work with baking soda and water (or at least motor spray) to remove/neutralize the acid or your chassis will corrode.  Do NOT use any of the no-lead low temperature solders for slot car applications.  Brain Damage, well we're all slot car racers so that's really not an issue!

[MSwiss]

I noticed that.

Maybe I'll try one on the future.

I just spent $70 on the Hakko 601, plus another $50 or $60 on 4 or 5 cheap, but decent irons, to sell to new racers.

I just got a chance to try my Hakko 601 to do a track related repair that requires a lot of heat.

 

Awesome heat, but that cord is really something.

 

I don't recall dealing with something that stiff since about 1988. LOL

[Eddie Fleming]

The cord seemed very stiff when I first started using it but i guess I got used to it. I still think about cutting the outer cover off it.

 

It is a great iron.

[MSwiss]

I still think about cutting the outer cover off it.

Good idea.

 

I may play it on the safe side, and take mine to a Rabbi.

[MattD]

I never thought about cutting off the outer cord insulation, that would sure make it more user friendly.   I don't know any Rabbi's.   My lack of knowing the right way to do something has never stopped me before.

[tonyp]

You get used to it after awhile.


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[Half Fast]

Now best solder and fluxes.

We used to use 60/40 tin lead,but I'm afraid for whatever brain cells I have left and not wanting to promote use of brain damaging lead fumes.

 

If you don't want to use a lead based solder, then you won't need a soldering iron, because you won't be soldering.

 

Cheers

[Ecurie Martini]

Lead "fumes" at soldering temperatures are non-existent. The only likely source of lead poisoning is via the inhalation of solder dust while power sanding or grinding to clean up joints - easy enough to avoid with a simple mask.

 

EM

[Eddie Fleming]

Flux fumes are a different matter.

[slotcarone]

No sanding or grinding should ever be necessary. Just make the solder joints neat!

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[SlowBeas]

Show off. 

[mjsh]

I liked the Hakko 936 so much I bought another one before they changed. Best iron I've ever used.   Mr. Swiss you are a funny man.

[JerseyJohn]

I sell and have a 50 watt Weller (Ungar) at my work station.

 

It just seems a bit lethargic so I just ordered a Hakko 601.

 

I'm hoping it's better, but regardless, having 2 irons plugged in, at once, makes motor removal on something like a Cheetah 7, with the motor soldered on top, much easier.

 

I really got spoiled by the 100 watt Inland, when they were available.

 

Despite being a bit clunky, you just couldn't argue with the heat.

 

IMO, it was either 1200 degrees, or at the very least, easily had the most superior recovery rate of any iron I ever used.

Im with Mike. I like lots of heat that makes the solder flow like water. 

I use 2 heaters when im building one is a 100w 1000+  degree unit for stained glass. You almost need a asbestos glove after it heats up. 

and for only. 19.99 https://www.theavenu...-soldering-iron

 

F 

For electrical soldering and at the track i bought 2 of these. still going strong after 8 months. adjustable w/ ceramic heaters for fast work. 11 bucks.

 

https://www.ebay.com...tQAAOSwGllaXuhD