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Braid iron information


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#1 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 01:49 PM

I know I recall seeing one a couple decades ago, but I no longer see them advertised, nor do I have a picture. Anyone that has one that can post a picture and any information?
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#2 Cheater

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 02:22 PM

The one Jay and I used at his place the week before Christmas he found on eBay. I don't think those irons have been made for years, but someone may have one. Put a want ad in Racer Swap Shop and I'll bet you'll find one.

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#3 Samiam

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 03:23 PM

Find a tinner's iron used for roofing and make a shoe for it.


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#4 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 05:10 PM

Check for dry mount sealing iron in art supplies.  You may need to make an aluminum guide flag to metal epoxy to the bottom.

 

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#5 Peter Crawley

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 09:37 AM

Matt:
 
Attached is a picture of an actual track braid iron with the business end milled specifically for slot tracks.  

Peter Crawley

Braid iron.jpg
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#6 Samiam

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 09:45 AM

Pete,

Is that the same iron you used to flatten the braid on the Hillclimber at the store on Conklin St?
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#7 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 10:01 AM

Pete Crawley...

Hi!

#8 Peter Crawley

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 11:56 AM

Sam & Brian:

Hello, guys,

Yes, Sam that is the same iron I used back in the 1970s and early '80s. I am surprised you remember it. 

I wish I knew how many tracks I braided it with, probably more than 20. My dad used to hire me out to braid tracks back in the 1970s. 

This iron was specifically machined to install 1/4" braid on American tracks. I have, or had, another one that wasn't as good but I cannot find that one. Pulling it out brought back memories, bad memories, but memories none the less. Burnt fingers and arms. Getting hot glue on you and having to wait, painfully, for the glue to cool before peeling it off, sometimes with some skin. 

 

I prefer the modern way, with contact cement, much better.
 
Peter Vasseur


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#9 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 01:40 PM

Attached is a picture of an actual track braid iron with the business end milled specifically for slot tracks.


Thank you, Peter. This is what I remembered.
Matt Sheldon

#10 kvanpelt

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 02:14 PM

Would a Monokote Sealing iron work for you? They reach about 350 deg F.

s-l400.jpg
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#11 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 02:56 PM

This might be perfect, Kevin. I am going to order one and mill the braid recess into it and see what happens.
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#12 Samiam

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 06:35 PM

Yes, Sam that is the same iron I used back in the 1970s and early '80s. I am surprised you remember it.


How could I forget? I remember during a race a braid would come up and you would grab that thing and iron it down.

Great times at your Dad's track. Good memories.
 
Have a good New Year, Pete. :victory:
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#13 MSwiss

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 06:49 PM

Maybe I'm dreaming this but I thought Cox sold a track braid that was preglued, and you stuck down with that big iron, with the contoured shoe.

IIRC (a mighty big "if"), Cox sold that shoe.
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#14 Phil Hackett

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 08:36 PM

Circle-T in SoCal used a staple gun and staples to keep the braid down... the track was trashed when the track closed... it always seemed so barbaric...


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#15 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 09:30 PM

Our old track owner out here used small tacks; hard on the car braid as well
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#16 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 10:45 PM

Topflite Monocoat iron from Hobbico Dist: $30. Extra shoe to machine: $13. Such a deal. Tunable heat as well.

Think I would make the flag shape contact area only 1-1.5" long to go around corners and concentrate heat better.

The framemaking art stores are getting ripped off.

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#17 Cheater

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 04:36 PM

Think I would make the flag shape contact area only 1-1.5" long to go around corners and concentrate heat better.


Larry,

You are as sharp as a (braid) tack.

As you said, the '60s era braid iron that Jay Guard has was a little difficult to use in the turns on his track due to the length of the piece that goes into the slot.

I asked that bum in FL to send me a pic of his braid iron to post here, but I guess he feels unboxing all of their stuff to finish moving into the new house is more important... the man needs to get his priorities straight! LOL.
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#18 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 05:59 PM

I remember the preglued  braid that we ironed on,but the iron was pretty bulky.A few years back the old King track at Port Jeff needed some braid repairs done before a big race and Doug wanted me to build up the height of the braid recess with bondo.I told him let me do it my way .I built up the low areas with a glue gun and let it cool.Then I put the braid down with a home made braid iron I made many years ago for my home oval track. If you do it correctly it will come out perfect.and it doesn't take as long as you would think.And it also will not damage the track.He was quite impressed ,and that's hard to do with Doug


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#19 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 06:03 PM

I actually remember what I did now.I made a second braid shoe that followed behind the hot iron .This shoe had wings sticking out that slid on the topside of the track surface so as to keep the braid consistant to the track surface.I hope you understood that and maybe it can help you out...



#20 MSwiss

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 06:31 PM

Sounds real cool.

 

I'd like to see the pic.

 

So the wings don't heat up enough to effect the track paint?

 

I use an iron a lot with removing old braid, and I have to be careful not to get too carried away.


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#21 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 06:56 PM

The second shoe didn't get heated only from  the heat of the braid a little.I didn't do the whole track only some low areas..They raced all the wing classes on it and at he time all new records were set. But it is a good way to repair an old track and save it from the grave.I have bondoed track braid recesses  a few times and that has its problems at times because of oils and braid juice  that is impregnated in the track  pores......BXP



#22 MSwiss

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 07:10 PM

I didn't read your post carefully enough.

When you referred to a second shoe, I thought it was a different style.

How does the second shoe connect to the iron?

It would be great to see it.


Mike Swiss
 
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#23 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 07:14 PM

It doesn't. You have it separate from the iron and follow behind it pushing it along while the glue and braid are getting warmed by the braid iron. It's easier to do with a helper.


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#24 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 07:20 PM

You can also do a double heat job where you get the braid close to the right height the first pass and then re-warm it and get it to the desired height with the second pass.

 

Ferret Engineering used to have the braid with the glue backing. Ask Jeff Bonnano of PawPaw braid to ask Carrol from Ferret about it.They know Carrol; she lives near them in Florida.



#25 jimht

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 07:31 PM

Used hot melt glue when we removed the original brass tape and cut a braid shoulder on my 180' Engleman in 1972.

Worked well until it became difficult/expensive to obtain glue that wasn't affected by naphtha.

 

The past ten years I've used only the 3M 9469PC adhesive transfer tape.

 

Still have a couple of the original American Beauty braid irons 200W-300W; great for soldering a toilet to a sink.

 

VSf7Sjr.jpg?1


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#26 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 08:21 PM

That American Beauty iron looks similar to what radiator shops used when there were radiator repair shops.


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#27 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 08:28 PM

It was - just a custom tip for a unique job.

 

Mike - a follow up with a braid roller should work like the second wider flag - especially if it has the built-in braid recess feature.


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#28 NSwanberg

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 03:36 AM

Has anybody ever considered designing a hot braid roller? We got plenty of rocket surgeons here. Seems to me that would be the way to repair track braid that has lots of contact cement under it. (As on Downriver's hill climb) The only idea I could come up with was keeping an all metal braid roller in a small broiler oven during the race and handling it with oven mitts. I think keeping the roller between 300 and 400 degrees F ought to do the trick.

 

The former Slot Car Mania now Hott Slots in Westland MI had the best braid roller I have ever seen. It was two rollers on swivels connected to a common handle. It really followed the slot well and pushed the braid down while not stretching it.

 

I have a 200 watt plumber's soldering iron similar to what Jim H. has pictured. I would like to have a braid shoe designed for it. One of my question is should it be machined from copper, aluminum or steel? 

 

For those that have used hot glue as from a hot glue gun - was that on a virgin track, repaired braid over contact cement or with the contact cement removed from the braid gains?

 

Removing contact cement from the braid gains is one of the nastiest dirtiest jobs you can imagine. I know of no good way to do it. Routing it away and repainting the gains is probably the way it should be done but what a mess and................... time is not on our side. Solvents?

 

JB at Downriver has got some big decisions to make regarding the Skidmark's Gerding King track. It was not possible to disassemble, move and save all the braid in our time window.


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#29 jimht

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 06:55 PM

Look at this thread for info on dealing with cleaning up the braid shoulder:

 

http://www.slotcarta...Hillclimb/page2

 

The tip on my braid iron is the original soldering tip machined to do braid.

 

For relatively cheap great adhesion 3M 847 glue (Hasse's favorite) or 3M 9469pc adhesive transfer tape (for a smooth sealed braid shoulder).

Neither is appreciably affected by track cleaning solvents. Only expensive  industrial/commercial type hot melt glue is resistant to solvents and requires a special pricey glue gun.

Any (cheap) hot melt made for crafts is useless.

 

A good heat gun with the tube nozzle flattened somewhat so it doesn't heat the paint on the surface is good tool for reworking hot melt.


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#30 Jay Guard

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 06:58 PM

Here's the braid iron Cheater and I used to remove the braid from my track.

 

j3.jpg

 

j2.jpg

 

j1.jpg


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