30 replies to this topic

[gotboostedvr6]

I need to drill a 3/32 hole in the center of this 4" x 1/2" motor shaft...

It turns clockwise when looking down at it.

Any ideas?

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[Pablo]

Not a clue. But whatever it is, you are wrong to try it and this is the end of the hobby as we know it.

[gotboostedvr6]

I do have; a decent large drill press, a wood lathe with a ton of runout, a great imagination.

I dont have; a metal lathe, enough sense to forget about this project.

[Bryan Warmack]

   You could spend a lot of time with a mill set up, or hanging it off the side of a drill press with an elaborate clamping arrangement or just going for it with some large vise grips and a center punch to start the hole. I assume the 3/32 hole will be threaded for some sort of mounting screw...?

[Booger]

You want to cross drill the shaft for a pin I'm guessing....

 

 

This installs in your drill press and can be found for $5-10 dollars.....Center drill first,finish with the correct drill.

[Phil Hackett]

To drill the center of the end of the shaft you'll need to take the motor apart and then find someone with a lathe who'll get the hole in the center.... don't try it in a drill press.

 

it's not as simple as you think. The end can be on center but the "axle" can be wobbling.

[airhead]

​Have your friend with the lathe turn a piece with the hole size you want to drill, and another hole half way through the size of the motor shaft. The fixture will only be about 1.5" long.

[gotboostedvr6]

I'm attempting to build a very low cost "commercial" tire grinding machine. This motor will be used to directly drive the tire.

I had originally planned on grinding this motors shaft down to 3/32. After speaking with Bill Bugenis I realized the shaft on this motor is not hardened steel and is too soft for what I envisioned.

I would like to reduce the instances and duration of time I touch donuts, hubs and set screws during the assembly process.

The method I use to mount donuts requires a hub to be mounted to an axle during the gluing process. I'd like to leave the tire on the axle and just slide it into this motors shaft for trimming and the grind.

[airhead]

​My tire machine has a similar motor. It uses an adapter like the one I described , a set screw holds it to the motor shaft and the other end is drilled for a 3/32 axel also held in with a set screw.

[gotboostedvr6]

Billy,

Would a 1/2"ID sleeve about 6" long with a 2"long x 1/2" OD dowel inserted on one end with 2, 3/32" bearings on the center line be an appropriate jig of sorts to find center and be parallel to the motor shaft?

[Samiam]

You would be better off driving the axle as a jack shaft. 

[gotboostedvr6]

A beltdrive setup is to complicated and would drive costs skyhigh.

[Samiam]

Any run out and play in the motor shaft will be amplified with the axle extending off it. 

[gotboostedvr6]

I checked the shaft with a dial indicator and was pleasantly surprised with how little runout was present. A hudy would make quick work of any minor off center I might encounter(I hope).

[Booger]

OHHHH!.....Wrong center.

 

 

 

If you want find center on the cheap,turn on the motor on and hold sandpaper firmly against the end of the shaft,concentric rings will show center......Like tree rings.....Then what?.....

 

I would cut the shaft short as possible,install sleeve on shaft with 1/2 x 3/32,install axle stub into sleeve with a screw.....you can support other side of axle stub or not.

[Bryan Warmack]

   You'd be better off to cut the shaft on the motor as short as possible and then machining a precision cylindrical adaptor with the shaft OD reamed on one end and a reamed 3/32 hole on the other end with set screws holding everything together.  Like Billy Watson said.  I made one very similar using a Harbor Freight motor and it works great. Keep everything as short as possible as even a very small amount of run out will be exaggerated the farther the axle is away from the motor bearing

[airhead]

My old tire machine looks like this, sorry for the mess

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[Bill from NH]

Billy, your tire machine is metric. It started as one sold by American Edelstaal, who also sold the Unimat lathe. I believe both were made in Austria. The cross-feed & the twin steel rod ways are the same as on the lathe.

[havlicek]

   You'd be better off to cut the shaft on the motor as short as possible and then machining a precision cylindrical adaptor with the shaft OD reamed on one end and a reamed 3/32 hole on the other end with set screws holding everything together.  Like Billy Watson said.  I made one very similar using a Harbor Freight motor and it works great. Keep everything as short as possible as even a very small amount of run out will be exaggerated the farther the axle is away from the motor bearing

 

Ab-so-freakin'-lootely what Bryan said.  Even if you had a lathe capable of machining the end of the shaft accurately, and could thread the hole, it would be waaaay easier and cheaper to just cut the shaft and make an adapter on that lathe.  

[airhead]

​If some one made a tire machine like this today, I believe it would sell.

I got this one in 1965 and has turned thousands of tires, and as you can see from the rubber shavings, it is still doing its job.

[MSwiss]

What cuts the rubber on it?

[Bill from NH]

​If some one made a tire machine like this today, I believe it would sell.

 

Some of the old slot car mags used to advertise this machine for about $50. Today it would cost much more. I think the original machine used a #11 X-acto blade to cut down German Graupner  airplane tires for slot car use.

[MSwiss]

I thought it used a blade.

 

How well does that work with foam?

 

Is the finished product good enough to take a few laps and go win a race with it?

[airhead]

​I Don't use a blade anymore, instead I glue 60 grit on the cross  feed to make the rough cut, then 120 grit on a block by hand then to 320 to finish,

 

The tires are good enough to race, even though I don't win, they know I am there. 

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[Robert BG]

I really think the adapter is the way to go.Especially since you may want to do other axle sizes down the line.There's really no point in pigeon holing yourself into one size from the start ;-)