65 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

My intention is to do a "body and chassis" for sale.

Or if somebody wants a complete car, I can do that also.

 

Body is a TrueScale Racing Lexan "TSR17 Ferrari F1 Dynamic".

Chassis will be a Pablo custom endbell drive jaildoor drop arm 1968 Pro-Era style

 

[Pablo]

Chassis specs:

WB 4", GL 15/16"

Track front and rear 3", skirt width 1.60" no taper

Rear wheels 7/8" OD, 5/8" width. Front wheels 3/4" OD, 3/16" width

Clearance 1/16" level

Flag deck height 1/16" (Jet Flag or equivalent)

Rear axle bushings: vintage Champion

Motor bracket: vintage genuine Russkit

[Martin]

[Pablo]

The doggone tangs on a Russkit bracket are only good for one thing - proving it's an authentic Russkit bracket
So here is the proof, before I start cutting

 

Axle management will be, hog out bracket holes, solder in 3/16 OD tubing with 7/32 tubes over them on the outside, with vintage Champion oilites soldered in. The neat thing about this build is, since it isn't intended to be a replica of any particular car in history, I can do it any way I want. As long as I stay with the theme and timeline for 1968-ish Pro Era cars, I think the VP will be fine with it.

 

Here is a list of the parts she will be designed to fit:

Mabuchi FT-16D type endbell drive motor

48 pitch crown gear up to 33T

1/8 axles

.875 OD X 5/8 wide rears; .750 OD X 3/16 wide fronts

Jet flag or equivalent (deck height 1/16)

 

Rear set screw wheels "Russkit replica X-Wide" that are .72 width with a 20 and a 10 thou spacer will give 3" width.

Front set screw wheels "Russkit replica" R721's that are .404 wide will give .095 per side slop.

[Martin]

I believe the tangs are to locate a 1/16 rod on the inside of the bracket and angle up to the axle tube, try it you might like it?

[Pablo]

I have tried it and it doesn't work that way. You can fidgit it to "make it work", but as designed, it doesn't work.

 

I've run rods inside the way you describe, but it requires removal, or at least, trimming, the tangs.

So when I want to do it that way I just remove them.

[Pablo]

Cobra style 1/16 thick drop arm made by grooverunner

With some trimming for my purposes, it will be perfect

 

[Pablo]

Russkit bracket all braced, tubed, and oilited

 

 

All jigged up

 

[Pablo]

First set of rails tacked on. Front of jig motor is elevated .032" to give it a slight downward slant,

yet still have some clearance "fudge factor". Should be smooth sailing from here on........

 

[Pablo]

Rails n pin tubes done. Next-to-last set of rails are .047 brass to make the width fit the body perfectly.

 

 

This will be a heavy Grand Prix chassis and it should handle like a bullet.

It will need some good beans to push it, for sure

 

 

[Pablo]

Paint scheme - Chris Amon # 24, Ferrari red (of course) with just a few (inside waterslide) decals

 

[Pablo]

Drop arm trimmed, marked, and jigged for hinge tube.

Getting it perfectly straight is simply a matter of attention to detail and hard work

 

 

Tack soldered in the jig, then transferred to a wood block for some serious heat

 

 

[Pablo]

.037 wire strengthener gizmos will prevent the drop arm hinge from breakage in a severe wall shot.

The flag will snap long before the drop arm fails Note the gap between the hinges - this isn't a mistake - the older style rod and wire drop arms depended on the hinge for alignment - my brass sheet drop arm uses the rails to keep it in alignment. A trick I learned from looking at a Foamy retro chassis. 

 

 

Time for a tumble

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Bare chassis weighs 52 grams

 

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Looks good Pablo!   I saw an eBay F1 chassis from the '60s yesterday that used the pointy areas of a Russkit bracket that you've been cutting off.

[Pablo]

Maybe this will get your mind off the pointy nubs, Bill

(the notch in the tube is an oil port)

 

 

Now, where did I put that doggone Iwata?

[Bill from NH]

I always soldered where that notch is to allow the hinge pin to only rotate at its ends. Less friction that way. I didn't cause an oiling problem when oiling at the hinge tube joints. Each to their own...

[Pablo]

3 mist coats of Fasred

 

[Jaeger Team]

I always soldered where that notch is to allow the hinge pin to only rotate at its ends. Less friction that way. I didn't cause an oiling problem when oiling at the hinge tube joints. Each to their own...

You might just bend it in the middle

[Bill from NH]

Hinge pins are easier t remove if they're left straight.

[Pablo]

Some outside acrylic detail paint, flat black and flat white

 

[Pablo]

Cockpit cut out. Metallic silver enamel on engine and fuel cap. Painted Warmack mirrors at the ready.

Roll bars - I figured if I made a bunch, at least one would be perfect

 

[Pablo]

Roll bar and mirrors are done

 

 

 

At this point, I'm going to pause and look for a buyer. My intent was to simply sell body and chassis.

Maybe the buyer will want the body trimmed, a motor built, or even a completed car.

If I can't line something up, it will be posted as you see it here in Slotblog's "Racer Swap Shop" soon

 

[Jairus]

Nice looking car Paul! 

[dc-65x]

Holy Smokes Pablo. Very nice paint. You'll be rivaling Jarius artwork!