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Never built a 'Pro' car? Here's how...


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#51 Martin

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 08:02 PM

The finished product looks great, glad you fixed the air pocket in one of you inserts.

Are you ready to share the plan for the body?


Martin Windmill




#52 dc-65x

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Posted 21 November 2018 - 01:24 PM

I couldn't make up my mind what body to go with and finally decided to use the same body as Mike did:

 

MRJ%20V1N22%20p6%20body.jpg

 

It's a Dynamic Porsche Spyder:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2082.jpg

 

It's something different than all the McLaren Mk8's being used at the time:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2083.jpg

 

As near as I can tell the body is a Porsche 908/2 Spyder:

 

1969%20Magl-Elf-1.jpg

 

Here's a cool picture of Vic Elford at the 1969 Targa Florio race:

 

Targa%20Florio-1969_Porsche%20908-02_V.E

 

Pretty amazing racing through towns and countryside like that........


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#53 TSR

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Posted 21 November 2018 - 09:27 PM

The Targa was "a walk in the park" according to the locals such as "Nino" Vaccarella, who often won their classes or overall.  :)
 


Philippe de Lespinay


#54 Martin

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Posted 21 November 2018 - 11:49 PM

Nice pick Rick.

I have always hated sticking pins in my prized body's for fear of making a mistake. Until I bought this fixture, it works great. I will never mount a body again without it. 

Not the way the Pro's did it, I'm sure

I may be risk adverse or just chicken. 

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#55 dc-65x

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 12:21 PM

Hi Philippe. Those race photos are so different from today's antiseptic tracks. Stone walls, trees and people standing on the tracks edge. Very picturesque but more dangerous. :o

 

Martin, I love gizmos. What's it called and where did you get it. :D

 

I actually mounted this body using a fixture of sorts for the first time. I should have taken pictures. :dash2:

 

Working with bodies that are virtually unobtainable is nerve wracking. There's no going to the raceway and getting another if I screw up. :unknw:

 

Pinning the body:

 

I taped the rolling chassis with jig wheels down flat on the tech block with the guide hanging over the edge.

I spaced the jig wheels out wide so they touched the flat sides of the body (wheel openings not yet cut out).

The body was set down over the chassis flat on the block.

The widely spaced jig wheels touching the body sides "squared" the body with the chassis.

I simply slide the body back and forth to where I wanted it and BAM.........stuck the first pin in.

 

Marking the wheel openings to be cut out:

 

While still on the block, I marked the axle locations on the body.

Removed the chassis from the block, took off the body and punched a 1/4" axle holes.

Replaced the axles with extra long ones.

With the body back on the chassis I could slide jig wheels the size of the wheel openings I wanted up against the body and mark the body with a Sharpe.

 

I've always struggled with this operation but not this time. It was the quickest, easiest and best job I've ever done. :shok: :D


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#56 Jairus

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 01:50 PM

My Porsche 908.
2v29vo8TDxubMLY.jpg


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#57 Martin

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 01:53 PM

Very cool car Jairus,

 

Rick, this is the jig I use. Really helps when mounting painted body's. 1-Lock down frame. 2- locate pin tubes and slide pins into frame to test. 3-Tape body on jig and push pins in through body and into frame.

https://rgeoproducts...-and-drag-cars/

I like your your method, this may have an application for you or not? Anything to take the risk out I reckon. 


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#58 dc-65x

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 05:25 PM

Very cool Jairus.  :victory:

 

Thanks for the link Martin. R-Geo makes good stuff.

 

I found an additional interior that will fit besides the usual black Dynamic piece. The white one is a TrueScale repop of the Lancer CanAm Ferrari interior:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2084.jpg

 

I'm not going to attempt scratch-building air cleaners like our expert modeler Jairus did for his 908/2. Velocity stacks in the molded Dynamic engine detail will do. I'm going to be really lazy and not even make my own stacks:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2080.jpg

 

I've got the body and interior all trimmed, the roll bar and mirror made up and a Russkit drivers head ready to butcher.......I mean attempt to paint:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2086.jpg

 

Here are the Patto's Place decals. Bruce made them in 1/24 and 1/28 scale for me. The smaller numbers might fit the sides of the "Low and Wide" body better. We'll see..........

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2081.jpg

 

My "paint booth" is a trash dumpster beside the garage. It's raining for the next few days so I have a reprieve from the dreaded body painting. :laugh2:


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#59 Jairus

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 11:54 PM

"Dreaded"?
So dramatic.
I have seen you paint and you are good Rick.
Carry on.


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#60 dc-65x

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Posted 25 November 2018 - 07:14 PM

"Dread"

 

Definition:

 

to be reluctant to do, meet, or experience

 

Yup Jairus, that about sums up my feelings. :laugh2:

 

I really enjoy building the chassis, motor, heck the entire car until I get to paint. I find it very difficult and a chore I struggle with. :o

 

Speaking of struggling, here's a step by step. :wacko2:  I'm trying to paint something similar to this:

 

 

1969%20Magl-Elf-1.jpg

 

All masked up to paint the red:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2092.jpg

 

Now the mask is removed to paint the blue:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2091.jpg

 

More of the mask remove for the white:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2088.jpg

 

I almost got it right............

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2085.jpg

 

................some red got through on the right side unnoticed until I backed the body with silver and removed the masking. :dash2:

 

 


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#61 SlotStox#53

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Posted 25 November 2018 - 08:19 PM

Looks good from here Rick :D

Maybe add a little weathering detail so as to hide it?

#62 Jairus

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Posted 25 November 2018 - 08:55 PM

It's fine Rick!  Looks great so far, keep going.


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#63 dc-65x

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Posted 01 December 2018 - 04:34 PM

If I hadn't been in a hurry I would have simply looked the body over very carefully before I sprayed the white. I would have found the red over spray and easily cleaned it off................oh well.

 

Next up are the decals. Maybe I can find one to hide my boo boo on the left front fender next to the wheel opening:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2094.jpg

 

And lastly, the lead wires need to go on. I'm using a single wire per side like Mike did:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2093.jpg


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#64 Martin

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Posted 01 December 2018 - 11:08 PM

Great looking car, I like the pair of blue spoilers in the rear too.

 

Just thinking if it bothers you?, could you use a Q-tip with rubbing compound to wipe through the white and the red over spray then spot back in the white?

 

Rick is it on the right side or the left, hard to see on the right but I think I see it on the left? Just over left front wheel arch?


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#65 dc-65x

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Posted 03 December 2018 - 12:53 PM

Hi Martin,

 

Yup, you're looking at the right spot.

 

Yes, the over spray bothers me. I just can't seem to do as good a job on the bodies as I can building the chassis. It was a stupid mistake......I guess most mistakes are! :laugh2:

 

As for cleaning off the paint where the boo boo is..............Testors enamel brush cleaning thinner with take it off with ease and not damage the Butyrate. But here's the problem with doing that:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2087.jpg

 

I backed the white with chrome silver before I found the problem. The flat white will show tire dirt and slung oil without a backer. I think trying to remove the paint would lead to the silver endlessly smearing and mixing with the white. :dash2:

 

Oh, and the excessive "orange peel" in the finish happened even though I heated the pee out of the spray cans in hot water before spraying. With temperatures near freezing it's just too cold to spray this stuff smoothly outside now. :unknw:


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#66 Martin

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Posted 03 December 2018 - 01:57 PM

O.K. we are running out of options here, but what about a nice black curved tire manufactures decal?

 

Or take some liberties with extended wing-lets to extend over the problem area. Hey! more down-force.

 

I looked into some kind of weathering, that model car guys use to make it looked raced.

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  • images.png
  • porsche 1969 targa_florio_270.jpg
  • porsche 1969 prot.jpg
  • ex00065-flp.jpg

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#67 Jairus

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Posted 03 December 2018 - 05:59 PM

I love the last option Martin!

Did it on my Cox GT 40 Mk 2.
 

2v2JD3TzSxubMLY.jpg


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#68 dc-65x

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 12:07 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions and boy do your cars look great! :wub:

I've come up with a solution......for better or worse. At least it's finished and I can move on.  :dance3:

 

But first here's the finished roller:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2095.jpg

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%20103.jpg

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%20104.jpg

 

My boo boo coverup are fender "hash marks" kinda sorta as used on period race cars:

 

1971_Datsun_BRE_510.jpg

 

63GS_w_hashmarks-500.jpg

 

Boo Boo gone:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2097.jpg

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2099.jpg

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%20100.jpg

 

Here's the little dude driving:

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%20102.jpg

 

Time to move on to the next project. Thanks to everyone who shared this build with me.  :victory: 

 

Pro%20Car%20How%20To%2096.jpg


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#69 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 12:18 PM

Good solution Rick! Those stripes look as if they were always supposed to be there. :)


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#70 Pete L.

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 12:27 PM

 Rick,

 

 Great job on the Porsche, really inspirational !!!


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#71 Pablo

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 01:17 PM

100% Bad to the Bone beautiful :heart: :heart: :heart: :heart:


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#72 Martin

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 02:18 PM

Dig it :victory: Beautiful car Rick. :good:


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#73 dc-65x

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 06:16 PM

Thanks guys and thanks to everyone that came along with me on this build. :thank_you2:


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