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So what one does in such circumstances and less than a week before the Big One?
Well in my case, I have to get off my lazy bum and get cracking. And since we are at it and this Slotblog! thing is also supposed to be eh-duh-ka-tional, I will share with you the result of the few neurones still connecting in my geriatric brain.
Foyst as they say in New Joysy, get a couple of Warmack bits because it makes things so much easier. I selected his wonderful chassis pan and main rail as well as his guide tongue and a special hypoid "short" motor bracket. Bryan was kind enough to make me a trio of it so that I can build the three cars just about the same.
The first thing to do is to analyze what will work better than the "last" car I raced there, see if I can get a lighter car that will negotiate the critical turns (donut and top) faster and "safer".
Light cars are twitchy but they have less to carry for the little motor, so if I can get a car weighing about 100 grams, that will corner like a 115-gram car, I am sure that I could get out of the "C" race where I likely will end out of practice and competitive machinery.
Hence: I decided on a short car (3-7/8" wheelbase and the shortest guide lead offered by the kit) while getting as much weight I can from the center of the car and adding a bit to the back to improve traction, while providing for high speed in the banking and the chute by keeping much weight on the front end.
1/ Using my trusty 35-year old Dremel MotoTool and a total of 7 discs, I removed much weight from the pan as shown. I held the pan with a flat pair of parallel jaw pliers after wrapping a rag around the part so as to avoid scratches on the brass.
I also "rolled" the ends of the front bumper to receive a piece of 1/16" steel wire that will act as a bumper (more on that later). I also cut and filed the center body post to save weight. Here is the finished part compared to the stock part. Savings: 8 grams.
Next, I cut two slots to receive the returning loop of the front bumper. As well as cutting extra slots along the main rail slots to receive a piece of .032" wire for the pan hinges.
Next I formed a pair of symmetrical bumpers made from 1/16" music wire. These are a little bit of a b*itch to form as they must be totally flat while their outer ends "jump" on top of the .032" pan.
Their length must correspond exactly so as to fit right under the front of the chosen body, in this case a M.A.C. Ferrari 312. These bumpers will help save the body when crashing hard in case of a "rider". They also will help the car from "pushing" in the banking, while allowing the use of softer tires.
The tongue is shortened and substantially lightened as shown (another 2.5 grams gain):
This is what is left of the first two Dremel discs, I got a good use out of them!
The motor bracket diet is next. These .040" brackets are cut and filed to lose a cool 5 grams!
A piece of brass tubing of exacting length, dressed on the lathe, is then fitted. The exact length is that of the total axle width (3.125") minus the thickness of the wheels used as well as that of the bearing flanges, and 10-thou for two thin washers in case you use bronze bushings.
The "kit" is now ready for some assembly:
First go the main rails, then the motor bracket, all assembled with a torch rather than an iron so as to ensure perfect solder flow and no "cold" joints. The axle tube is also soldered, then cut to provide gear clearance.
To be continued... only 6 days left!
..... Big or Small ..... I build them all 
