33 replies to this topic

[Gene/ZR1]

How to Make a "Thingie\RTR" Universal Tire Machine 

Cost around  $70.00 and some labor.

 

I will be using a bead drilling machine

example;  https://www.ebay.com...US!-1:rk:2:pf:0

 

Watch how this works;  

https://video.search...251&action=view

 

Most  "Thingie\RTR" cars require modified tire sets using rims with fresh glued tire donuts.

So lets get started, study the photos

I wanted a universal tire sander\grinder for Thingie\RTR kit cars. 

A tire sander\grinder with 120 volt horse power with direct drive, also variable speed control.

A tire sander\grinder that can fit up 1\8" axles, 1\8" threaded axles and maybe a 3\32" axle, change out easily.

A tire sander\grinder that can service 2 tires at once.

 

Study the photos.

 

The bead drill

 

Remove these parts from the gold 2 vertical jaws, not needed

 

Parts removed

 

Get a piece of 3\4" brass rod and turn down so it will fit into the hole as shown in parts removed photo.

 

Make 2 brass disks as shown

 

Test fit the disks into the gold 2 vertical jaws and make sure they extend just past the vertical jaw as shown

 

Make 2 flat pieces of brass flat stock, 3\4" x 2" (sanding pad plates), use JB Weld and glue the brass disc to the brass plate. Let cure for a couple of days.

 

Test fit the brass assembly in the hole as shown.

 

With the brass assembly in place for a fit up look over.

 

Now setting up to do a center bore shot in each  brass assembly.

 

Power on boring a hole, hole diameter must accept the #6 flat head bolt.

 

After the center bore is complete flute out to accept the #6 flat head screw, must be flush with the brass sanding plate.

 

Cut sand paper, your choice of grit, apply some spray glue. I will be using peel and stick paper later, just wanted to test this contraption out. PLACE THE FLAT HEAD SCREWS IN THE BRASS PLATES PRIOR TO PLACING SAND PAPER ON THE BRASS PLATES!

 

Attach the sanding disc plates into the holes and secure using the flat head screw,washer and wing nut as shown.

 

Test run; Power up set desired RPM turn the blue plastic knobs and the sanding jaw plates will close on the tire.. 

 

Grind to desired diameter Use the silver lever on the right and the sanding plate move forward and backwards to smooth the tire.

 

Bingo, it sand great.

 

Going to make a fixed diameter control stops.

You guys can take it from here, modify as you see fit, it does work well, the motor is strong

 

regards gene

 

 

 

 

[pirx]

Ha, just ordered one of these, thank you for the tip !!!!  

[Maximo]

Damn Gene, you are the MAN!

 

This is yet another great and clever tutorial on how to build a helpful device on the cheap.

 

maximo

[hiline2]

Not the best scan but what was used in the 60s

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[Gene/ZR1]

Not the best scan but what was used in the 60s

That was a lot of money back then. Most likely it was built like a tank and last forever.
I think I can add the cutting blade as shown in the article.
Thanks)

[mark1]

Nice work. Thanks for sharing!

[Bill from NH]

The ways & cross-feed for the Modelmat came from the Unimat, also distributed by American Edelstaal. Rick Thigpen in OR has a like-new one & has shown it on here in some of his builds.

[Martin]

I have one of these I would like to clean it up and put it back in service. I will take pics of mine. I saved this pic as reference.

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[MSwiss]

Gene,
That bead driller is lot of machine for $49.95.

Thanks for posting.

What kind of runout does that direct drive motor have, spinning a 3 jaw chuck?

I'm also just a bit skeptical it could cut 2 tires at once, accurately on 1 axle, unsupported on 1 end.

[Martin]

I thought about that too Mike. 3 jaw chucks are not known for there accuracy.At least the ones I have and have used  It is hanging out, unsupported too

  Hope this gives an acceptable result. 

[MSwiss]

Martin,
Did you mean "acceptable result"?

Also, I got a minor chuckle from
"Cost around  $70.00 and some labor.", but left out the part about needing a multi $K lathe.

[Martin]

Yes Mike thanks.

It would be a good idea to put an indicator on the axle. A bearing support or live center would be a great optional addition. A bridge too far maybe?

[Gene/ZR1]

Martin,
Did you mean "acceptable result"?

Also, I got a minor chuckle from
"Cost around  $70.00 and some labor.", but left out the part about needing a multi $K lathe.

 

Guys, that was my approx. cost, tools just make things easier, but I do have a $6.50 R4, 4ohm controller from 1967, still works great, while others spend $600.00, whats in your wallet?

[Gene/ZR1]

Gene,
That bead driller is lot of machine for $49.95.

Thanks for posting.

What kind of runout does that direct drive motor have, spinning a 3 jaw chuck?

I'm also just a bit skeptical it could cut 2 tires at once, accurately on 1 axle, unsupported on 1 end.

 

Mike

This setup is not meant to be used for high tech cars, just for the old vintage buzz around the track cars. It appears to be similar in operation to the American Edelstaal tire cutter. 
 

​Yes an axle will yaw\wobble if it is to long, so some common sense should be used. This motor can spin up to 15,000 rpm's. I could install a self centering bearing axle end support to help the cantilevered axle, we will see.

 

The chuck is small and made pretty good. The jaw will open up a little greater than 1\8".   Remember this setup will be used for re-skinning or re-cutting old old tires. Also you can use  a threaded axle with old threaded rims and make up some tire sets.

 

My end mill has a 3 jaw chuck and does not wobble, I use some very small bits and I can not have the bit wobble.

 

Even today with modern new rims, when you insert the axle it will wobble before you tighten the set screw, so when you tighten the set screw the rim is not centered on the axle, same with gears.  Now you have 2 rims and a gear not running true to the axle.  Nothing is perfect. Threaded vintage rims are even worse.  

 

By sanding both sides of the tire at the same time will eliminate some run out error, but again this setup is for the vintage enthusiast who enjoys tinkering and making, restoring these old cars of the past and watch them thump around the track.

 

So far the test tires are turning out just fine. 

 

thanks for the comments

and have a nice day; gene

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Martin]

 I have a small  watch makers lathe  and I made a clamp to mount a Dremel tool with a sanding drum  to the cross feed.

If I did not have my lathe, this tool you modified would be a  good creative option

I do like the portability. So I could do the job outside. Or I need to buy a small vacuum cleaner to collect the rubber dust. 

[Gene/ZR1]

 I have a small  watch makers lathe  and I made a clamp to mount a Dremel tool with a sanding drum  to the cross feed.

If I did not have my lathe, this tool you modified would be a  good creative option

I do like the portability. So I could do the job outside. Or I need to buy a small vacuum cleaner to collect the rubber dust. 

 

Hi Martin

I will agree with the mess.  When your time permits could your post your tire grinder? I'm always interested in other hobbyist equipment inventions

thanks; gene

[Martin]

Sure thing, happy to show it. What I like about it is the spinning drum sander which moves back and forth does not try to take material off the whole surface at once. Its not my idea, its the way we do shaft or bore grinding. I just adopted it to do tire grinding.

Give me minute or two.

[gotboostedvr6]

Too much run out with that setup.

[Bill from NH]

Martin, times up!

 

I cut a few tires in my apt. back in the '70s. It took months to clean all the orange dust..

[Martin]

Here you go, nothing fancy but works great. But only because I already had this lathe. I bought this 10c on the dollar from some one in a relocation situation.

Genes idea is a bargain. 

 

The vintage Rual engineering  tool may be worth restoring at some point ( give me anther couple of minutes) Must be careful starting too many projects at once. 

When I first saw this post I thought it said Time not Tire. Gene, please make a time machine next, when you get chance. Then I wont need a tire machine, I will just buy them new. Riggens, Associated Champions grey blue and orange, oh boy  

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[Bill from NH]

Thanks for the photos, Martin. I don't recall seeing a Rual Engineering tool before, unless it came on eBay. I used to often see the Modelmat advertised in model car magazines.

[Gene/ZR1]

Here you go, nothing fancy but works great. But only because I already had this lathe. I bought this 10c on the dollar from some one in a relocation situation.

Genes idea is a bargain. 

 

The vintage Rual engineering  tool may be worth restoring at some point ( give me anther couple of minutes) Must be careful starting too many projects at once. 

When I first saw this post I thought it said Time not Tire. Gene, please make a time machine next, when you get chance. Then I wont need a tire machine, I will just buy them new. Riggens, Associated Champions grey blue and orange, oh boy  

 

Martin;

Your setup makes sense and appears to suit your needs, that's all that counts.  Inventing contraptions is the best part of the hobby.

The Riggen tires were great, but few are around.

I did make a time machine, but when I press the go button I ended back where I started, so I really don't know if it worked. 

Thanks for your photo post.

regards; gene

[hiline2]

That was a lot of money back then. Most likely it was built like a tank and last forever.
I think I can add the cutting blade as shown in the article.
Thanks)

The raceway track (Grand Prix Raceway in St Louis area) had one of these. When I built a Russkit rail kit I got to use it to trim down those big tires in the kit. Ive always hoped in someway to find one again or somehow construct something like it, Im just old school in that way.

[Martin]

Started the restoration of my old Rual tire truing machine (you got me motivated Gene) so take a look. Disassembly.

Hope you do not mind me tagging on to your post?

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[Martin]

Cleaned the motor and sanded the base and got the motor running.

 

I would like to add a sanding drum to replace the blade. Does a blade even work, any body ever try that?

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