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#1 Snoopy49

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 03:07 PM

Hello everyone.  I am new here and would like to get some info as to 1/24 slot car drag racing.
 
Can anyone tell me who sells the most competitive and most scale-looking cars in 1/24 scale?
 
Good controller to start out with?
 
Info for building a drag strip?
 
Thanks,
 
ZM

Zack Methvin
Longview, TX
 




#2 Ghostrider513

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 04:13 PM

Hello. I'm new too. Great to meet you.
Mike
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#3 Pablo

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 06:34 PM

What ever happened to DRS (slotcar.com) ? Great source for drag parts and info.


Paul Wolcott

#4 airhead

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 07:51 PM

RUN!  don't get hooked like the rest of us, one day you will look around with a controller in your hand and say, What am I doing here.


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Billy Watson

#5 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 09:48 PM

What ever happened to DRS (slotcar.com) ? Great source for drag parts and info.

 

The DRS website is still up.


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#6 Snoopy49

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 08:12 AM

Hahahaha, I hear ya. The same thing happened to me in flying R/C Airplanes. Now some 25 years later I'm still addicted.

 

Zack Methvin
Longview, TX
 

#7 Shooter7mustang

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 12:20 PM

Ron Birdsong at Top Slots in Del City Oklahoma builds custom Drag cars to order.

405-677-5687

Very knowledgeable when it comes to drag racing


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#8 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 01:46 PM

For the most part, slot car racing, in its MANY forms, is a CRAFT hobby.  That means YOU must build them and your skills can make them accurate scale, fast and/or pretty or junk.  A good share of ACCURATE  cars are made from model car injection molded kits or the cottage industry resin casters of modified kits.  Vacumn formed lexan or styrene bodies are never as accurate, but are lighter and cheaper to make, use, and destroy.   Many times bodies are a consumable expense.  Many drag racing cars hold up much better than other forms of slotracing.

 

There are several ideas and plans for drag strips to fabricate and several track builders that will cut the wood for you, but currently there is only the Trakmate timing system available to buy new.  Used drag systems are more rare, but sometimes do turn up along with used tracks.  

http://www.trackmate...n/9-drag-racing


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#9 MattD

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 04:18 PM

If you have a friendly cabinet shop nearby, just ask if they will cut you a dragstrip.     They can cut MDF panels to proper width and use a cnc router table to cut accurate slots and gains for the track braid.  You would need to make a base for the track surface and lay the braid.   You would need to paint the surface.   Slot Car Corner has braid that is pre-taped with double sided tape that makes braiding  the easiest part of track building.   You will need electrical taps and power source.   Nothing here is very hard and having the track pre-routed, it is really simple.   


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#10 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 12 April 2019 - 10:07 PM

IF starting from scratch, use 5/8" - 3/4" MDF and rip a 4 x8 sheet to equal width sheets.  From one edge, set the width to the left slot and use a carbide blade to cut the groove (1/8"+/-) to a depth of 5/16" on every board.  Turn the boards around and repeat until all boards look the same.  Cut joiner plates to link and align ALL panels so that the slot is continuous.  For a scale 1/4 mile a minimum of 80 feet long is needed and longer if you have the room to fit it in.

 

Once it is framed up, you need to route the braid recess with a flat bottom router bit following the main groove.  Most use a 3/4" bit with a center guide pin.  Be sure to allow the pin to not bind in the 1/8' slot. The goal is to end with the glued in braid to be flush to the road surface.  Have the braid 'IN HAND' to measure the batch to ensure the secondary cut depth.

 

Follow the timing system guidelines as to sensor locations along the length before gluing the braid down.  Prime and paint the wood surface before laying braid or mounting sensors.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... (for now)
race directing around Chicago-land

 

Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2017 member #404
USSCA  member

Host 2006 ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club member
60+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America


#11 Brian Czeiner

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 07:27 AM

Welcome to the slot car addicts hot line. LOL  I'm only here in Tyler. I can help you get started with some basics on building cars or a track. Though some of the stuff is old, I have the chassis jigs and other tools needed to get you started until you can acquire your own stuff. Send me a PM, email me at Cavemanbodeez@gmail.com call or text 903-574-8806 

 

Looking forward to hearing from you. Brian


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#12 Dave Crevie

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 11:41 AM

Here are a couple of shots of the one I built during construction. I used 3/4" thick MDF for rigidity, and added 1 x 4 pine side rails and

crossbeams to prevent sag. Each section is 18 inches wide by 96" ( 8 ft.) long. I layed out the slots all from the same edge to avoid

mis-matches that could be caused by slight variances in section widths. The shots show the blind end for the start line, but sections

fit together using a tongue-and groove joint that can be seen at the bottom left of the first shot. This is simply a 12" wide by 24" long

piece of 3/4" MDF that fits into a pocket cut into the mating section. The sections are fairly light in weight and can be handled by one

person, making set-up a one man job. Electrical continuity is handled with trailer connectors to join the wiring harnesses under the

sections. 

 

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#13 Dan Miller

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 04:21 PM

Snoopy49 .......

 

Go to Dallas Slot Cars in Mesquite. Ask questions. They have a good crowd of Drag racers and a fine strip.



#14 Rotorranch

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 04:28 PM

Here are a couple of shots of the one I built during construction. I used 3/4" thick MDF for rigidity, and added 1 x 4 pine side rails and

crossbeams to prevent sag. Each section is 18 inches wide by 96" ( 8 ft.) long. I layed out the slots all from the same edge to avoid

mis-matches that could be caused by slight variances in section widths. The shots show the blind end for the start line, but sections

fit together using a tongue-and groove joint that can be seen at the bottom left of the first shot. This is simply a 12" wide by 24" long

piece of 3/4" MDF that fits into a pocket cut into the mating section. The sections are fairly light in weight and can be handled by one

person, making set-up a one man job. Electrical continuity is handled with trailer connectors to join the wiring harnesses under the

sections. 

 

 attachicon.gif007.JPG

 

attachicon.gif008.JPG

 

attachicon.gif009.JPG

 

Dave,

 

What's the red car in the garage? 

 

Sorry for the thread drift.

 

Rotor


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#15 Dave Crevie

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 01:14 PM

Jaguar



#16 MrWeiler

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 08:38 AM

Hahahaha, I hear ya. The same thing happened to me in flying R/C Airplanes. Now some 25 years later I'm still addicted.


I do both...

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