68 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I found this Lancer #991 Super Competition Charger Daytona body on eBay. It looked scary but I took a chance on it:

 

 

Luckily it cleaned up beautifully:

 

 

This body first shows up in the Auto World catalog summer 1970 issue:

 

 

I've decided to build a Pro style angle winder following the 1970 NCC rules shown below (click on the pic to enlarge for easier reading):

 

 

 

 

 

For inspiration I turned to Mike Morrissey's 1970 Model Racing Journal Newsletters. While I didn't find any pictures of stock cars I did see several sports cars that I liked.

 

Bill Steube's car from the July '70:

 

 

I also like several of Lee Gilberts creations:

 

 

I'm also going to follow many of the component used especially the Gilbert built car on the left:

 

 

That's the plan. First I'll build the motor setup to use as the jig motor in building the chassis..........

 

 

[Jairus]

Cool, maybe you'll inspire me to finish my Torino Stocker then. Carry on!

[S.O. Watt]

L.A. dropped the racing of stockers after the ‘69 USRA season.

[dc-65x]

That's great Jairus. You've inspired me to build many times!

 

I love the '69 USRA/MCS series Tom. They had classes for Sports Cars, GT, GP and Stockers. They even had concours events. After that, oh well...........

[Jairus]

Do I smell a build off?

 

Edit: a gentleman's build-off of course.

[Bill from NH]

This should be another fun project, Rick. I'll be sitting on the sidelines.

[dc-65x]

Good deal Bill.

 

I always enjoy your builds Jairus.

[Pablo]

     

[dc-65x]

For the motor I'll be running a Mura C-can or as it was known then a Green can. I don't know the exact details of how this motor came about.....but PdL's book should be out soon.

 

I do know the early Mura produced Green cans are different from the Mura 2-hole C-cans commonly found today. The early version used a 1/4" bearing and no axle cutout while the last version uses a 6mm bearing and an axle cutout.

 

Here are some examples. The first 3 from left to right are examples of end user mods. The 4th is how the last generation was done by Mura and the last one is how I did mine:

 

 

I made my cutout bigger to be sure the axle would clear the can with the 1970's 7/8" diameter rear tires. My can is on the left and clears the axle:

 

 

I also milled the can's motor mounting surface flat and tapped the mounting holes 2-56. The cooling holes were opened up and I chamfered the holes......just because I think it looks cool.

 

 

The end bell is next..........

 

 

 

 

[brnursebmt]

Love those two hole Mura cans with the holes opened up.  Just looks awesome!

[Pablo]

X2 on the holes, very SANO

[dc-65x]

The end bell I'll be using is the early style which is really a B-motor end bell narrowed up to fit the Green can. It also needs brass shims top and bottom to fit the taller can.

 

Here's the pile-O-parts for the motor:

 

 

The Thorp Comm Cooler showed up in a 1970's ad so I'll use one:

 

 

All ready to go:

 

 

 

Next a junk arm goes in this setup and I've got my jig motor......

 

 

[dc-65x]

The motor is in the jig and soldered to the centered rear axle tube. The motor bracket is screwed on the can top and bottom....

 

 

Let the solder smoke and acid flux fumes commence!

[SpeedyNH]

I don't think I've ever seen a motor soldered in that cleanly.

[stoo23]

Wow, how uncanny, we were just discussing the use and popularity of the Daytona body way back when we were younger, this past weekend at one of our Retro races and 'Just like that', here it is in what looks like another great Re-Creation build

 

Will definitely follow this thread to see the (undoubtedly superb), outcome

 

Ahh, brings back fond memories

[dc-65x]

I'm going to go with straight half rails as shown on this Bill Steube 1970 chassis:

 

 

Instead of having one shot at trying to bend the gear side half rail in exactly the right place, I can put the bends in the main rails and just trim their length a little at a time until everything lines up.

 

Below the extra long half rails are clamped in place, ready to solder and a 3/32" spacer is in front of the motor for the cross piece:

 

 

Then the motor is removed, the rear axle tube braces are soldered on and the flat for the motor mount screw is filed into the half rail:

 

 

The motor was dropped back in place and the motor mount soldered to the half rail:

 

 

A brace added to the top of the motor bracket:

 

 

The excess was also trimmed off the rear axle tube braces:

 

 

The main rails are next.........

 

 

[dc-65x]

Back in the jig for the main rails and 1/4" brass cross piece:

 

 

 

Done:

 

 

 

The front axle is next.......

[Bill from NH]

Looking good, Rick.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Bill. The front axle is on and it's starting to look more like a chassis.

 

Fresh from soldering in the jig:

 

 

And all cleaned up:

 

 

All ready for the next step:

 

 

The drop arm pivot arrangement is next........

[dc-65x]

I'm going to attach the drop arm hinge tubes the way Lee Gilbert did (I believe) on this car:

 

 

An L-shaped 1/16" piano wire piece in front of and under the hinge tube. There is also a little notch so the hinge can nestle down on the .050" thick drop arm:

 

 

All finished up along with a little 1/32" wire plumber rail up-stop:

 

 

The drop arm needs relief cuts on each end where the hinge tube will go......

 

 

......to stop the solder from flowing where it doesn't belong:

 

 

 

Time for the drop arm to get its plumber hinge tubes and bumper...

 

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Rick, due you recall who made the .050 droparm?  I recall Parma having .032 & .040, with other's .047 being popular before those two were released.

[dc-65x]

Hi Bill,
 
The drop arm I'm using is an absolutely beautiful reproduction of the Team Nutley drop arm by by Slotblogger "grooverunner" Ken Hill.
 
It's my favorite drop arm to work with as they are so precisely made making them a pleasure to use. I was going to use a new in the package Steube 2-hole arm but it is stamped wrong and the guide tongue is offset almost 1/16"!

 

This is my last one of Ken's beauties. I've tried to PM him but with no response. He hasn't been online here for months.
 
If anyone knows how Ken is doing and how to contact him please let me know.
 

Below are pictures from an earlier build:

 

My chassis parts (MRJ step 2). That's my one and only Team Nutley drop arm:



We're lucky to have beautiful reproductions by Slotblogger "grooverunner" available shown on the left. Thanks Ken!

 
Ken's drop arm is .050" and my one and only original is .0485". The package number is C47 probably indicating a .047" material. Of course there is a tolerance for everything so we're really splitting hairs.
 
I did find this in my Box-O-Drop Arms:

 

 

Onward!

[dc-65x]

The drop arm set up in the jig for the plumber hinge tube and bumper install:

 

 

Finished and all buffed up:

 

 

 

Plumber rails and with pan hinges are next.....

[S.O. Watt]

It took awhile but I did find the only picture I have of the 4.5" stocker chassis I built in 1969. Its the center one. The fall/late summer USRA race at House of Hobbies was for stockers, the last LA series stocker race.

 

I donated this chassis a few years ago to LASCAM. Maybe PDL can take more pix of it.

Attached Images

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[dc-65x]

Very cool to see a real piece of history.      Do you remember what body you were running? Thanks for sharing it Tom. 

I have some Parma Stocker pans:

 

 

To finish up the chassis on this "Steube - Gilbert" inspired build, I'm going to be using this Lee Gilbert car from May 1970 for reference:

 

 

The pans needed to be shortened an 1/8" and the lightening cutout added:

 

 

Pan hanging time