68 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I used 1/16" Tig welding rods to space the plumber rails away from the frame rails while soldering the pan hinges. I didn't have to worry about accidentally soldering the plumber and frame together........not that that's ever happened before.

 

 

I also decided to clamp the plumber rails down flat against the jig while hanging the pans. They always seem to creep upward unnoticed until it's to late:

 

 

The pans - plumbers all cleaned up:

 

 

The chassis is getting close to finished.....

[dc-65x]

Drop arm spring in the jig:

 

 

Drop arm cleaned up and bumper trimmed to length:

 

 

A little gizmo soldered to the pan upward stop to make up the difference between the drop arm and main rail thickness:

 

 

All the sub-assemblies are finished:

 

 

Time to get it into one lump.........

[Jairus]

"She's so pretty, so very pretty...."!

[dc-65x]

I've got the last pieces of the puzzle ready to tie the whole thing together Jairus...........after lunch at Nellie's Deli and Tap House

 

 

 

[Jairus]

That is exactly where I am on my car.  EXACTLY!
Except... I lost interest.
So keep going my friend and enjoy the beer.

[dc-65x]

I also tend stall out on a project Jairus. I work so hard on the project I can get a bit burned out. So I like to have several projects going at the same time.

 

Now that the chassis is completed..........

 

 

 

..........I might paint a McLaren Elva body..........

 

 

...........or not.

[Pablo]

       

[dc-65x]

I think it's time take the motor from "jig motor" status to a finished the motor.

 

Here are the pieces for the project:

 

 

The end bell is finished.......

 

 

..........but I need to bond and hone the magnets and finalize an armature choice. Here are the arms I'm going to choose from.

 

Parma Single 24:

 

 

Certus S24:

 

 

Certus unknown wind:

 

 

Mystery Arm:

 

 

 

[SpeedyNH]

nice choices there!

[SlotStox#53]

Parma, or that mystery arm looks rather tasty

Love the car build so far! Soft spot for the squished stock car shells.

[dc-65x]

That Mystery Arm's windings are very nice and neat, maybe hand wound on a Mura blank? I've been told the Parma is likely a Mura.

[SlotStox#53]

Neatest windings = extra tenths of a lap, use the mystery one

[Pablo]

All the arms look great to me. If I was dc-65x and forced to choose one, since they all seem to be about the same gauge wire, I'd go with the one with the least timing advance. Being for a big stock car, I think the tamest one would provide the most driveable power. If you can call a 24 "tame" 

 

The Parma looks to have slightly less advance but I'm guessing based on the photos. 

[dc-65x]

Pablo, your post got me wondering about the timing of these arms. I know that the old open arms typically have much less timing than modern arms so let's see how these compare with each other:

 

Parma S24:

 

 

Certus S24:

 

 

Certus mystery wind:

 

 

Mystery Arm:

 

 

My eye ball measurement is failing me. Maybe the advance increases from top to bottom?

 

All of them seem relatively mild compared to today's high timed arms.

[SlotStox#53]

Using the old eyechrometer it sure looks like the highest timed arm appears to be the mystery arm/bottom pic.

Although not a huge difference between the selection.. All should push a heavy brass bank punching Stocker quite well

[Pablo]

I agree, my eyes say they are all very similarly timed, but they increase top to bottom.

That's the second time I've looked at the photos and liked the Parma the best.

 

And I concur with Paul's words 100%

[Jairus]

Looks to my artists eye, that the top two arms from Parma and Certus have less advanced timing than the last two.

[dc-65x]

I'm going to take the "Mystery Arm" off the list for a future Pro car replica build. Since it's so neatly done it could be hand wound.

 

That leave the new old stock (NOS) Parma and Certus single 24's and the used Certus unknown wind to choose from.

[dc-65x]

The prepared can will get some Champion Blue Dot magnets and .004" shims and clips bonded in place:

 

 

After honing the magnets ever thing is masked off for paint:

 

 

My last can of Krylon Black Wrinkle paint gave up the ghost and began puking paint to heavily on the can. Luckily, wrinkle paint is pretty forgiving and it turned out OK:

 

 

The "wrinkling" is a bit more exaggerated than I'd like but.........

 

 

..........it's time to build this motor up and get it broken in.

[Bill from NH]

Rick, I think the wrinkling came out looking just right. Not too heavy, not too light. I used to use a Cal Custom brand that I don't think still exists. I always painted  empty cans (I still have the balsa plug I made for C-cans) but there isn't any wrong way to paint a can, just different ways, like many other things in life. I look forward to seeing the finished car when it's done. Keep building!

[dc-65x]

Here's the finished motor Bill:

 

 

 

I love the Blue Dots:

 

 

Time to get the motor installed and the wire brace soldered on the axle tube........

[Bill from NH]

Rick, the finished motor looks sweet !! Do you recall whose 5-coil springs you used? You should end up with one fast Charger. Some say the only difference between Champion'a DZs, Blue Dots, & White Dots is the color of the dots. I don't know whether that's true or not, but they all respond nicely to re-zapping.

[dc-65x]

The brush springs are modern Camen Bill. I think they are quite similar if not identical to the way they were made back in the day:

 

 

And yes, all the old Champion magnets love a good ZAP from "The Big Dog" 

 

[Pablo]

Love the motor        That's gonna be one scary quick stocker 

[Bill from NH]

Rick, next time you make comm coolers, turn a couple out of brass or copper to see if they conduct more heat than aluminum. I've tried copper endbell heat sinks & they seem to work well.