34 replies to this topic

[Steve Ogilvie]

What I always do to level a track is to use scraps of plywood to shim up the legs in low spots. Then leave them in place and let the track settle to the floor and then adjust the legs. Legs are easy to adjust but it is really hard to adjust and level at the same time. Using shims is much easier. Looks like it is coming along nicely.

[Revtor]

Nice tip Steve!

[MSwiss]

Steve M.,

I have a bunch of thid, squeeze to move one jaw, style of clamp, where you can take off the non-moving jaw, and reverse it, to use as a spreader.

With the jaw reversed, you can "pump it up", to raise a low spot.

If the bar isn't tall enough, in a particular spot, I just throw a cement block, underneath.

[MattD]

I adjust as needed with a bottle jack and two concrete blocks.   I had a dip in one lane going  into the bank.    If you weren't familiar, it would launch your car if you hit wide open at the wrong place.   I put the jack under that spot, raised the whole track about an inch and put a block on each side of the dip on the track surface.   After a week I let the jack down and removed the blocks and the dip was gone. 

 

 All these methods seem to do the same thing.    Learning all I have about building a track by doing it and reading what you guys do makes me want to do one better than I have, but  I don't want the mess and  to spend the time and money again.    I'll just keep what I have, but I could sure better next time around.

[MSwiss]

Yes, in the middle of the track, where the bar of the clamp, is sometimes in the way, I go with the bottle jack, and a square of MDF, with a counter bore, to allow that piece of MDF, to float a bit, to go, where it needs to go.

[Revtor]

All good thoughts guys!! Hopefully I can visit the place this coming week and bring back some current pics..

[Mattracer]

How do you deal with the braid when taking the track apart? Pull it all? Cut at the sections?

[MattD]

If braided in one continuous run, I would cut it at each  joint and then then try to make a soldered connection when I put it back together.   I have not done that, but I have soldered copper tape  on a taped track to do repairs.   

 

It's also easy to cut the braid about 6-10 inches on one side of the joint and pull it back across the joint.   Reconnect as in the picture below by drilling a hole in the gain area of each track and adding a jumper as shown.

 

 

[Rotorranch]

How do you deal with the braid when taking the track apart? Pull it all? Cut at the sections?

All depends on how it was braided. IF it was braided in sections, you just unbolt the sections.

 

IF it was braided continuously,  and the braid is still good, you can cut the braid at the joint. When you reassemble the track, peel back a few inches of braid, drill a drop down for the braid, and add a short section of braid to the original braid.

 

IF the braid is not going to be reused, it doesn't matter. 

 

Rotor

[Revtor]

This track was braided in sections so it came apart easily and will go back together with very minimal gap