33 replies to this topic

[Martin]

We have all know about this car, but I have never held or seen one for real.

 

This part of one came up as a BIN for $15 and I thought what  am I going to do with it.

I know I will find another part one day or I will make some parts and make it look like a car. Or just get it I will figure it out later after I talk to you guys.

 

I do seem to have a thing for brass.

 

The pic with the tape measure is from the add.

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[slotbaker]

I got to hold one in my grubby hands a few years ago, and they are quite nice.

 

Very similar in looks and fit of the better class of Japanese tin toys.

 

A very desirable thing to behold.

[Martin]

Got it soaking in Bar tenders friend for a while and working it around with a tooth brush.

There was a couple of dents in the nose but they came out with a tiny hammer and dolly.

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[Martin]

A little polish, then I got to thinking about what to do with it. Maybe a custom chassis with the sides bent up to form the bottom of the body.

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[Ecurie Martini]

With the weight of that body, it not likely to be a podium contender.  Why not fit it with scale wheels and tires?

 

EM

[Martin]

Yes Alan, I will use scale wheels, that was just a chassis that was close at hand.

I know it seems hard to believe ( its really thin brass) but I bet this body is similar in weight to a Monogram Lotus body for example.

No interest in podiums, maybe top of the project self for a while.

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[MattD]

Martin, if anybody can make the rest of that car it is you.   I don't think they came with a motor, if I remember right.     I think the concept behind doing this in precision brass was the brain child of one of the Japanese HO locomotive companies that made high quality brass locos.

[Rotorranch]

They were available with a motor for $12.95, or without a motor for $9.95, according to the ad.

 

Rotor

[Martin]

I would assume it would be a 16D? but I tell you it is tight if I want the body to sit lower, and I do.

The pic in the add looks like it might be a Pittman style motor? which would be slimmer.

 

It says it was a must for collectors. Nothing original here meaning I can make the rest up and just use this front nose part for inspiration.

[don.siegel]

It is designed for a 16D.

 

Not at home this weekend (somewhere in the middle of France for a 6 hour race of vintage 1/32 kit cars, on a newly refurbished and expanded track with a 50+ foot straight!), but will try to weigh mine and post some pics.

 

Mine was maybe my luckiest purchase ever - there's a small shop on our residential street specializing in old Dinky toys; he occasionally gets a slot in one of his lots and I've always told him he could ask me for info. A few years ago, he called to me as I was passing and said: "What is this?" It was the brass Lotus in its blister card, dirty but unassembled, and no box. I brought over my AW catalogs and told him about the car. I also said when you're ready to sell, let me know, I'm interested!

 

A few weeks later, I passed by and stopped in, asking why I hadn't heard from him: "Oh, since I hadn't heard from you I put it on my website." Gulp... "is it sold?". "Non". "So, how much do you want for it?" "80 euros" "Ok, think I'll take it Monsieur... ".

 

Next year, the Bordo vintage race is for "open wheelers"... Do I dare?

 

Don

[Martin]

NO!!!!  But if you do take a parade lap please takes some pics.

If you do crash I will loan you my mini body work tools.

 

Thanks for info and the story.

The body must sit up high on the motor and I want to lower it some.

 

Good luck in the race, let us know how you do when you get a chance.

[Lou E]

I never knew such a thing existed, that is pretty darn cool!!!

[Jencar17]

 

 

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[don.siegel]

Thanks Jen, that's how I found mine, but with lots of extra dirt! And some of the blisters were up a bit, so felt free to put it together... 

 

Don 

[Martin]

Thanks Jen for those images. Very helpful. I will not hold out too much hope of ever finding a complete kit or car.

I will be happy with a part of "The most beautiful slot car in the world"

 

Don, did you run it yet?

[don.siegel]

Nope, haven't run it yet. Was gone this weekend for a 1/32 race on a fabulous newly refurbished/lengthened track, but didn't bring any 1/24 cars, and wouldn't have risked the brass Lotus on its 50 foot straight. I probably won't run it next year, but it is tempting, and I'll be sure it's the only one! Of course that also means I'll have to polish it... 

 

 

This is what happened to our race entry, a cute little Monogram Cooper-Ford - jumped into another lane at the beginning of the straight... but we were TQ! 

 

 

Them's the breaks... 

 

Don 

[Martin]

Congrats on the TQ, bummer about the nose job.

That is horse power track, for sure.

[don.siegel]

Yep, but not for 6 hours... 

 

It was the first race on this track too, which is only a branch of the main club - both in small towns! 

 

The guys were mostly new to vintage racing too, except for the organizer and Richard, so it was a trial run in a way... they were afraid we would run away with the race, so I guess this proves something.... darned if I know what. 

 

Don 

[mdiv]

I had one NIP when I had less bills.

 

Tried to put it together.  Failed.  It was in my car for 2 years.  Threw it out when I sold the car.  Bigger fail.

 

Can't teach a new dog any tricks at all.

 

Mike

[don.siegel]

Here's mine - still haven't painted the driver because I'm afraid it won't be up to snuff... 

 

For info, it weighs 170 grams (6.07 oz), versus 114 g (4.07 oz) for the comparable Monogram Lotus 38. I put a Russkit 22 in there, but it might have a bit of trouble pulling that weight. 

 

I must have looked pretty lost when I opened the blister, because a friend who had just built up 2 of them volunteered to build mine... very talented guy and one of the few marqueters around (yes, as in marquetry, or inlaid wood decoration, very popular back in the 17th and 18th centuries and still hanging on). 

 

Don 

 

 

 

[MSwiss]

The Russkit 22 looks like it was made for the car.

As far as not being able to pull the weight, who cares, that stereo guy seems to have an endless supplies of 3 and 6 packs, on Ebay, at a reasonable price.

Replace as needed.Lol

It would be interesting to put on a set of good tires, and sees how the car performs.

I've been musing for years, if a thin metal body would be cool on a slot car.(more on a stocker, vs. an F1, or sports car)

Something that would dent, that you would periodically pound out, from the inside.

[Rotorranch]

There have been a few of the brass Lotus cars in the last year on ePay.

 

When I was younger, we used to make bodies from Hot Wheels, or whatever, with aluminum foil. When you crashed, you might have to pit to do body work!  It was much fun!!!

 

Rotor

[Martin]

 Don, thank's for the great pics.I have seen pics where the driver is a Cuc driver.No?

I know I can build (duplicate) the lower part of the frame. So I will start there.

Good to know the weights to shoot for. I will use plastic faux motor parts etc to keep the C.G. lower.

 

Mike, I too (as a metal-smith) have thought about metal bodies. You as a track owner can answer this, is there any problem with the car laying upside down across the braid. Could it damage the track braid or would it just arch on the body. I am thinking its on some body's else's lane with power on. 

 

Jeff, foil is what you would have to use to be close to scale .001"thick. That would crush from just picking up. So that's not too practical. But .010" thick would work. That's close to 1/4" thick. Now that's a armored car. Some things just do not scale.

[don.siegel]

Here is a small sampling of the metal body slot cars I have, 2 scratchbuilt and 2 commercially made. 

 

From left to right: an Olds Toronado with a Dynamic 26D chassis/motor combo and a 1/24 body from ?? (friction or floor toy I assume); 1/32 Lotus 56 I believe, hand-beaten somewhere in England, somewhat overscale; a 1/43 Tootsietoy Corvair; and an HO scale car from Rasant of (East?) Germany, a Ford Taurus I believe. There's another one, that came in a set from Japan, but I'd have to find that, and another scratchbuilt, a very funky hot rod type car, ditto. 

 

 

 

Don 

[MSwiss]

 Don, thank's for the great pics.I have seen pics where the driver is a Cuc driver.No?

I know I can build (duplicate) the lower part of the frame. So I will start there.

Good to know the weights to shoot for. I will use plastic faux motor parts etc to keep the C.G. lower.

 

Mike, I too (as a metal-smith) have thought about metal bodies. You as a track owner can answer this, is there any problem with the car laying upside down across the braid. Could it damage the track braid or would it just arch on the body. I am thinking its on some body's else's lane with power on. 

 

Jeff, foil is what you would have to use to be close to scale .001"thick. That would crush from just picking up. So that's not too practical. But .010" thick would work. That's close to 1/4" thick. Now that's a armored car. Some things just do not scale.

If painted, probably not a problem.
 

If not, and making good contact across both braids, it would short out the lane.(I just tried it with a 7/32" diameter axle tube)

 

I didn't get too carried away, duration wise, because I didn't want to risk the slight chance of damaging my power supply.

 

It theory, in the case of an unpainted brass body, like the Lotus, the body might get arced up.