Thanks Maurizio,
I was waiting to see if anyone noticed that end bell, as I haven't seen one before this. The material seems different from the usual black colored stuff, more like what the Mura is made from. That's one reason I went for it and reamed the bearing pocket out to 5mm. I also succeeded in leaving material at the open end of the bearing pocket for extra strength...something I wasn't at all sure would work.
That Cox can had all kinds of crud and rust on the outside, and I polished the living daylights out of it just to get it to where it is. Speaking of end bells, on all of them, except of course the Mura, they were drilled and the brush tubes set in a generous blob of JB Weld to key them mechanically to the plastic and provide a layer of heat resistance underneath.
The Champion can also cleaned-up nicely, and required a lot of work too, but it came with the split-shim and proper magnets. The end bell had no hardware and with no Champion hardware here, I had to take apart a Hong Kong end bell just for the hoods, but while I was at it, I added 36D brush tubes.
The generic Mabuchi is one of those that has the welded tab, and they have no drilling on either end for bracket mounting, so I drilled both ends and milled the bottom of the end bell so it doesn't sit proud of the can edge.
As with the Champion and generic Mabuchi, the "Peanut" style motor got a can bearing adapter, but I made it almost the width of the can I.D. so the can drillings are through the thicker adapter metal to give more purchase for mounting screws. I cleaned the end bell plastic while it was disassembled as best as I could, and the dyed it red to freshen-it-up. It got a nice strong set of ceramics epoxied-in after painting it "anodized purple".
I'm happy with the result of all this, now it's on to winding-up some arms.