As good as a scale slot car gets!
Posted 28 October 2019 - 07:46 AM
Good detail, but probably something limited to club and home racing rather than in a commercial setting. Rich Vecchio's club group in Oregon runs similar cars, but not quite as detailed. Other Oregon groups may run like cars.
Posted 28 October 2019 - 09:15 AM
Posted 28 October 2019 - 09:28 AM
Good detail, but probably something limited to club and home racing rather than in a commercial setting.
Gregory Wells
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
Posted 28 October 2019 - 09:55 AM
Contest quality if it were a static model. Obviously not for heavy competition.
I had asked Howie about this, as he has participated in races with this type of car. As I recall, they go at it hard.
Between respect for others' hard work, very high driver skill, and minimal de-slotting (a de-slot pretty much kills one's chance of winning), racing these works of art competitively is possible.
Also, notice, in the turns you don't see thick 1/2" MDF walls. Just like someone's track you have raced on. LOL.
Mike Swiss
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder
17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 692 Citadel Drive, Westmont, Illinois 60559
Posted 28 October 2019 - 09:59 AM
Where would one find a kit such as this?
In the US if possible.
Posted 28 October 2019 - 10:07 AM
Gregory Wells
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
Posted 28 October 2019 - 10:41 AM
Posted 28 October 2019 - 01:12 PM
Posted 28 October 2019 - 01:43 PM
Bill, your admittedly-accurate comment seems to exude a faintly dismissive scent to me. Is Legends car racing any less admirable because they don't go as fast as the Cup cars do? Is vintage racing (as practiced in the UK) less than real racing because they are competing in extremely valuable collector cars?
The German hyper-scale cars seem to be pretty popular in that country, as evidenced by this pic. Not sure if this is the 2018 or 2019 version of the Fein Design Slotcar Meeting...
Posted 28 October 2019 - 02:14 PM
We'd already be running the same type of detailed classes as the Germans, if they appealed to Americans, yet we don't.
Gregory Wells
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
Posted 28 October 2019 - 02:26 PM
Mike Swiss
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder
17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 692 Citadel Drive, Westmont, Illinois 60559
Posted 28 October 2019 - 02:55 PM
Posted 28 October 2019 - 04:35 PM
Posted 29 October 2019 - 12:34 PM
Posted 30 October 2019 - 01:44 AM
Rocky Russo (RIP) said it best...."They are all doomed." Might as well look as good as they can.
Posted 30 October 2019 - 07:33 AM
While the degree of detail and level of finish will vary, according to the desires/objectives/skills of the individual modeler, this approach to slot racing can often result in both simple rules and broad competitive fields. A typical example (can be applied to 1/24 and 1/32 models):
Dimensions: wheelbase and track to scale +/- 1mm (track restrictions sometimes include or expressed as O/A width over the tires, not center to center tire measurement).
Motor: spec motor, upper RPM limit or unrestricted.
Tires: min/max diameter (no O-rings or rubber bands) tire material and color (typically black), run dry (pale green tires triggered my exodus from slots in the mid-'60s) realistic sidewalls e,g, no "hockey pucks."
Bodies: usually "hard" bodies, injection molded, fiberglass, resin (although I have seen some really excellent models based on vac-forms)..
Decoration: driver/cockpit/external detail (e.g. some suspension detail for '60s F1 cars).
Ground clearance, no magnets.
Of all of these, I believe that the wheel/tire restrictions are the most important in generating a field of competitive cars. If someone wants to push the output of a 50,000+ rpm motor through a 6mm contact patch (for a 1/32 car) - be my guest.
Some of the European 1/24 events are restricted to specific commercially available, e.g. Scholer, chassis. This is similar to 1/32 contests for one-make RTR cars.
EM
Posted 30 October 2019 - 12:44 PM
EM,
Our Can-Am specs closely adhere to your proposed rules.
This is my version of George Bignotti's Lola T70 with Indy quad-cam Ford Indy engine.
Raced '67-68 without much success. While the car was qualified well up in the starting grids, and Parnelli Jones drove it to fifth at the '67 L.A. Times Grand Prix at Riverside, Mario's 1968 adventures with it were less auspicious - early race DNFs from blown engines and oil pressure loss. I suppose the Ford DOHC first developed for Indy was not the ideal road racing engine.
Posted 30 October 2019 - 02:05 PM
The 1/32 NSR, Slot It and Racer/Sideways cars that I race aren't quite as detailed as these cars but are pretty damn nice. That's what attracted me to them, along with all the things you can do to them to make them faster. I'm still learning little performance tricks.
Jim "Butch" Dunaway
I don't always go the extra mile, but when I do it's because I missed my exit.
All my life I've strived to keep from becoming a millionaire, so far I've succeeded.
There are three kinds of people in the world, those that are good at math and those that aren't.
No matter how big of a hammer you use, you can't pound common sense into stupid people, believe me, I've tried.
Posted 01 November 2019 - 12:22 PM
I just came across this thread. As James mentioned, we race what I would call "True Scale" hard body cars at Electron Raceway here in Roseburg, Oregon. I have always been a fan of plastic or resin model car racing because of the detail and scale look of these with scale wheels. In my opinion, this type of racing is not suitable on super-fast, banked tracks such as a King (although we raced hard body cars on Bob Scott's King track in AZ). A high speed crash due to a rider or careless driver would surely require some serious plastic welder to fix. Frankly, I prefer shorter, flatter driver's courses. I designed and built my track with this in mind. Below is an image of Electron Raceway (lane length approx. 90 feet).
Below are a few examples of the cars we run
They look nice but how do they run? Below is a video of the final heat of one of our GT1 races.
Rich Vecchio
Posted 01 November 2019 - 05:40 PM
Everytime i see a post with these fantasically detailed Euro cars all i can say is- i wish i was part of it! I have raced several types of 1/24 scale hardbody cars and i really enjoyed it, mostly due to the scale detail of the cars, right down to the wheel inserts, such as by Scaleauto and BRM. And as told by Howie, when you race slower hardbody cars that are evenly matched, it is grueling and fun. And i like what is being raced out in Oregon as well. As for not racing jail door cars- we here in New Jersey have started to race them again, and i am having a blast! I can imagine how slot racers felt racing jail door cars after racing all of the 36D type rtr factory cars, thingies, etc from the mid 60's era- what an improvement! And the bodies still offered plenty of scale detail.
Oh yeah- we here in NJ are also racing mid 1960's era 36D powered cars. And as mentioned above, even though we are racing basically as close to a real 1965 era car as possible, the cars are getting tuned to go fast, so it looks like flexi car racing! ackkk!! I prefer the slower speeds, so i just do my laps, enjoy the old cars.
Here are a few pix of various hardbody cars i have raced. Not as detailed as the Euro cars, but we did have fun with them, and no- not much body damage once we learned how to properly tune and race them. All of these cars were built with H&R Racing brass chassis and plastic model kit bodies, 25k motors.
Glenn Orban
NJ Vintage Racing
NJ Scale Racing
C.A.R.S. Vintage Slot Car Club
Posted 02 November 2019 - 09:11 AM
Great stuff. I love that you guys are using inserts in your wheels. Really adds to appearance. I was racing with a group that also
used the H&R chassis, perfectly fine for a small track. We ran on an oval, mostly vintage NASCAR, jalopies and old school dirt
modifieds. But also sports cars on a routed road coarse intended for 1/32nd scale. Close quarters for passing.
We also ran sprint cars and Indy roadsters made from resin bodies I cast.
The rears on the roadsters don't start out that diameter. These are worn down from all the sideways turns.
They start at 1 3/16ths dia.
Posted 02 November 2019 - 09:43 AM
Great stuff. I love that you guys are using inserts in your wheels. Really adds to appearance.
View from the bench of a long time rivet counter:
If you get the wheels right - size, appearance, tire diameter and width, you're more than halfway to a good model. If they're not right, nothing else matters.
EM
Posted 02 November 2019 - 11:26 AM
As a many time winner of model railroad model contests, I am as much a stickler for detail as anyone. But some
concessions must be made to keep the car usable. The trick is to find the balance. I tried to make wheel inserts
mandatory in the group where I raced the cars I posted, but there was just too much push-back from the commercial
racers in the group. Some didn't even want drivers mandatory. I even offered the resin cast inserts and drivers free,
since I was casting them. I just couldn't convince them.