13 replies to this topic

[MSwiss]

Racers have complained about threading the super-tough, slightly oversize post, Red Fox guides, including many instances of snapping the post in the threader.
 
For racers who don't need the lowest guide nut possible, for body clearance, these .150" tall, dual set screw, collars, don't require threading, and install almost effortlessly, with no wobble, using a standard tire wrench.
 
CR074 - aluminum - zip-loc bag of 3 - $10.50 retail ($3.50 each)
 
CR075 - brass - zip-loc bag of 3 - $11.85 retail ($3.95 each)
 
No set screws included.
 
Use your own favorite, leftover, lucky set screws.
 
Will be available at Eagle and ERI with a full discount.
 
If you have a local raceway, please encourage them to stock them so you can purchase from them.
 
I will send a free sample, of either material,  to anyone who has placed a $25+ order, from me.
 

Perfect fit on an unthreaded Red Fox post, of either material. Will obviously also fit on smaller diameter posts.
 

For no wobble installation, take JK lane sticker backing paper, "notch" it out with a paper punch, and push down hard, alternating, tightening each set screw.
 
On a full height post, using another collar to push down with, works well.
 

Free rotating, and no perceivable wobble.
 
I have also adjusted the collar, to be able to get the blade of an 8" screwdriver in between the tongue and collar, and every effort to pry it off, resulted, with a ton effort, snapping the guide at the base.
 
The 2 set screws, "keying" themselves, into a non-metallic surface, have never showed any inkling, to allowing the collar to slip.

 

[MSwiss]

A drag racer, on FB, just asked if it could be used for that type of racing.

 

My reply;

 

You really can't get the guide very tight, to keep it from rotating. The drag use would be to use the brass model, as an additional item, above a standard nut, with a piece of piano soldering on top. You would then use it in conjunction with a neo magnet, to keep the front of the body on, with a rail.

 

When confirming the above, adjusting these will even be easier than I thought.

 

Maybe because the bore is more precise than my prototype, even without using any shim paper, it's very hard to get the collar on too tight.

 

You just press down fairly hard, with your thumb and forefinger, while tightening, and the collar goes on with no wobble, and free rotation, for great guide centering.

[Dave Crevie]

Interesting. That's how we held guide flags on in the sixties. I guess what goes around, comes around. I'll take a few Sat. when I'm

there for my old timers. Brass, of course.

[Bucky]

I'm not too familiar with drag racing. If the goal is to lock the guide pointed straight ahead, could this be soldered to the chassis and the guide inserted and tightened down on after that?

[MSwiss]

Yes, you could, obviously with the brass one.

 

Great idea.

 

Super thanks.

[Jay Guard]

Mike, let me say I like this new product and will probably orders some to try in the near future.  However (and not trying to be negative) one thing you might have to watch out for is if you had to add guide spacers to compensate for a certain track's braid depth.  If you didn't rotate the collar to a different position before tightening the set screw it may try to "find" the previous indent in the post and bind it up.  Obviously not a problem to turn the collar to a new "fresh" location but just something you would need to be aware of.

One other thing... I don't know how the weight of your collar versions compare to existing drilled guide nuts but is seems like it's located a bit high on the chassis and could offset the benefit from your excellent Low CG Guide.

[MSwiss]

I already thought of that, and tried tightening them, with adding, or subtracting, spacers,

 

It doesn't affect adjusting them.

 

Keep in mind, that is with the Red Fox post, which is virtual perfect fit, in the bore.

 

Regardless, as you mentioned, you can spin the nut around to an almost endless amount of different spots, "around the clock".

 

The aluminum nut is approximately .2G heavier than a  .100" tall Grape nut, or a .125" tall JK round nut.

 

You could probably file, or Dremel that much off, in a minute , or two.

 

IIRC, my guide is .7-.8G heavier.

[MSwiss]

I'm not too familiar with drag racing. If the goal is to lock the guide pointed straight ahead, could this be soldered to the chassis and the guide inserted and tightened down on after that?

The drag racers, on FB, have been real excited about your idea, incorporating the CR075, brass version.
 
Especially since racers using wheelie bar wheels, can quickly adjust the guide, up or down, to affect the stance of the car, and get those wheels exactly where they want them.
 
Thanks again, Aaron.

[MSwiss]

These have made their way to both Eagle and ERI.

Please support your local raceway, if you have one.

[MSwiss]

Chuck Gambo becomes the first race winner with a CR guide collar, no wobbling his way to victory, in the Thursday Night Thunder DTM race, at Mid-America Raceway.
 

[MSwiss]

Chuck Gambo takes the big 6 lap win, in DTM, at MFTS Race #4, at Chicagoland Raceway, using the new CR aluminum collar.

[MSwiss]

Here's another positive response from an ISRA road racer, someone I usually see in the podium pics, on FB, for his area races, and typically attends the Worlds.

 

Hi Mike,

I tried the brass collar for guide tonight and really like it.

Can I order a few more from you as well as a couple of the redfox guides with the brass plate in them up the post?

[MSwiss]

Another fan of the new CR guide collars;

Hey mike, Im a big fan of those nuts I got from you. I was actually able to use them on some guide flags where I had screwed up the threads and was not able to get a threaded nut on correctly. I would like to look into getting some more along with your......

[Mark Fox]

Really like this 'Retro' approach - never understood why the threaded guide took off but before you knew it all guides were threaded and you could not get the old style grub screwed type collars.