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#1 rvec

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 07:27 AM

Here at Electron Raceway, we race True scale, plastic model cars with production chassis and sealed motors. I have chosen this route to flatten the learning curve for racers new and old and provide fun and close racing at a reasonable cost.

During my last visit to the Phoenix, AZ area, I met up with some old friends from the AZGR (Arizona Garage Racing) club for some slot racing fun. They race scale 1/24 and 1/32 cars at private tracks in the Mesa Arizona area. Dave Deuble, a tireless promotor, track owner and dedicated slot head is the honorary AZGR rule maker (a thankless task at best).

I was fortunate enough to attend several AZGR races over the span of more than a month. Dave and his crew were always kind enough to provide competitive rides. I cannot blame my poor showing on equipment, just incompetence.

Of the several scale cars we raced, I was intrigued by their Indy Car class. The class is based upon an inexpensive H&R chassis. The chassis is modified for the proper wheelbase and the front end modified to accept an axle tube for a 1/8 inch axle. Power is provided by a 25K, long can Scaleauto motor. These open wheel cars were fun to drive and great looking to boot.

Below are a few images of a passel of AZGR Indy Cars in various stages of construction (courtesy Dave D.) See the appendix for AZGR Indy Car specs.
 

18835703_1724671620896237_890494752044119726_n.jpg
 
18892899_1719509774745755_307150742057418607_n+copy.jpg
 
indy1.jpg
 
Indy3.jpg
 
Indy5.jpg
 
Indy4.jpg
 
IMG_9495.jpg

My Journey

I thought it would be fun to develop an Indy Car class for racing at my track, Electron Raceway. Many of our racers have spare copies of the old ProTrack brass chassis which is a non-adjustable wheelbase version of the H&R. The ProTrack chassis wheelbase was a bit too short for the Indy class and required some modifications. For those who don’t have an old ProTrack gathering dust, an inexpensive H&R is in order

The first order of business was to acquire an Indy car plastic model kit. Out of production for many years, I turned to E-Bay. Monogram 1/24 kits come with several liveries and can be had for about $20 (including shipping) if you look hard and are patient. My starting point was the Mac Tools Lola (see image below). These kits are quite detailed. Unfortunately, there are, by my count, at least ten parts comprising the body. In addition, some of the underside of the model’s plastic chassis had to be cut away in order to fit it to the ProTrack chassis. Assembly was time consuming and lots of plastic welder was required. Follow this link and watch a Youtube video of a Monogram Indy car review. It will provide some insight into the complexity of the build.

Lola.jpg

As mentioned above, the ProTrack chassis wheelbase was a bit too short for the Indy cars and this presented a bit of a challenge. I fabricated custom axle hangers along with an axle tube and soldered these in place. See images below for front end detail
 

Hangers.jpg
 
FrontEnd.jpg

Next, the “ears” of the ProTrack chassis were trimmed to accept the finished body. The motor was soldered in place and the axles, wheels and gear were assembled. Instead of the Scaleauto 25K motor (used by AZGR), I selected an H&R 40k blue motor. I simply wanted more power and a higher top end. Below is an image of the rolling chassis.
 
 

My1.jpg

 
Sorry I don’t have an image of my car on the chassis, however, Below is a good picture of one of Dave’s cars sitting on the ears of a chassis.
 
 

underside.jpg

 

At this point in the process, I decided to run the bare chassis on the track. Wow, was I unpleasantly surprised. The motor was way too much for the light chassis. I was undeterred. Custom side pans were mounted flush to the bottom of the metal chassis to lower the center of gravity and add weight. I also added some lead to the front end.

First, I cut the pans to conform to the shape of the body. I used .75 inch wide, .62 inch thick brass to fabricate the side pans. Mounting was tricky. I could not use nuts and bolts to mount the side pans (bolt heads and nuts would interfere with mounting the body and needed to be flush on the underside of the pan to avoid ground clearance problems). My solution was to drill two holes in the “ears” of the chassis (be sure to mark the position of these holes on the side pans). I then cut, fitted and soldered 5/32 brass tubing into the mounting holes in the ears of the chassis. The side pans were then drilled and countersunk. I soldered the mounting tubes from the bottom of the chassis by filling the countersink holes with solder. (Note: disregard the two empty countersunk holes in the chassis. The brass used had been drilled this way before I began the project)
 
 

My4.jpg
 
My5.jpg
 
My3.jpg

 


I tested the rig with and without the body on my track. What a difference. With the body, the rig ran 5.2 seconds. Moreover, handling was quite good. The fast lap times are in line with our Econo class cars.

Obviously there is more work to do before paint. The front and rear wings need to be mounted and the driver and windscreen need to be attached. The plastic model’s chassis near the front of the car will also need to be attached. This will be done after the front wing is mounted. The added weight will likely slow the lap times a bit but not much.

After some thought, I decided to use piano wire and tape to mount the rear wing. Below is a close up image of the mount
 

WingMount.jpg [/center}


With the guide flag and associated wire, the front wing mount was a bit trickier. I wanted to fabricate a mount that would allow the front wing(s) to breakaway in the event of a crash. I used a piece of thin brass sheet as the mounting platform. A small amount of hot glue was used to attach the wing to the brass platform. See images below
 

Wing1.jpg
 
Wing2.jpg

Instead of the relatively heavy driver figure, I used one I had laying around and mounted it with card stock. Below is an image of the car ready for paint

[center]ReadyPaint.jpg

 

Appendix – AZGR Indy Car Class Specs.
Bodies; Monogram 1/24th bodies work best, the 1/25th stuff sits too high on the chassis and look too small.

Tires and wheels; ProTrack Daytona (for NASCARs) - Rears 1-1/8” X 7/8”. Fronts are 27mm X 10mm. Both with 1/8’ axle. Wheelbase is 4-7/8” and Track is 3-3/8” rear and 3-3/16” in front.

Motors - We are using a 25k long (S) can motor by Scaleauto (you may want a 40K motor if more power is desired).

Gearing - We use a BRM “917” 11t (6.5mm dia. X 6.5mm length.) pinion and a 26t crown. The long pinion lets me use any crown gear without re-positioning the pinion on the motor shaft plus if it gets worn on one end you can reverse it and get fresh metal.
This combo is tall enough for Steve’s top straight with the 25k motor and may work on your track.

Chassis – We use H&R soldered together and with a piece of 3/16” X 1/4” brass bar soldered in the Bottom center. I don’t remember how long but use as much as will fit in the recess. I cut back the front uprights as shown and we tube the front axle.

 


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Rich Vecchio





#2 MattD

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 07:54 AM

Rich, that's a great  project and race class.  ... I'd like to be there to race with guys that like Indy and  can build cars..... I have found the H&R can be made a lot better if you put  thin lead under the front extension. ....  Weight added under the sidekick up pans is also a big plus.....    If there is a track clearance, a full brass pan underneath is great. ....   There is always weight added on the top side f the frame in the center.  .....    You can make a pretty good handling chassis for  something that is basically a 1964 design. .....    We run only solid frames like H&R, Pro Track, Sprintsplus and LVJ.

 

I always  brag on the LVJ, you can get a brass adjustable womp style that can be modified in so many ways  that is much cheaper than the H&R.....     I have setup cars with various motors,....I find a $2 Chinese motor in the 20K range is as much as  we need to have fast cars that are about our limit,....the last of these I geared 5 to 1 to keep it in the speed range of some of the 17K motors like the "Jaws", which is one I have used a lot.   ......  You've seem my track, pretty simple with a 30 foot straight......   I can't imagine wanting more motor on a track this small.     

 

I haven't built any Indy cars newer than 68, ,,as I don't think I could keep all the trim on it, ,,,there would be too many trips to the wal!! 

 

 

Here is an LVJ with added bottom pan  under an old Brawner Hawk vac body. ..I've used this same combo under Watson roadster resin bodies, vac bodies, and most every style of pre-70 Indy car I've built...... This old body was pretty bad, I ended up painting fresh white inside it,,, then painting the outside , too.....It was painted yellow when I got it....

 

P1010005.JPG

P1010002.JPG


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#3 Alchemist

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 11:36 AM

Hi Rich,

 

Looked like you had an exciting visit with the AZGR group - awesome!

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

 

 

Hi Matt,

 

That's a gorgeous car!

 

Would you have a photo of how you mounted the body to the chassis please?

 

Thank you for sharing!

 

Ernie


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#4 MattD

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 03:40 PM

Ernie that picture was during construction and I added a short pin tube in front of the motor.    I realized afterward that if I had been a better machinist, I sould hav emade the belly pan exactly the right size for the body to snap onto it.   I'm not good enough for precise work.


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#5 rvec

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 04:24 PM

Matt,

Thanks for sharing your Indy car version. Looks cool. I plan to make the front and rear wings "breakaway" I'll add to the post as I progress


Rich Vecchio


#6 MattD

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 06:32 PM

Rich some of the import 1/32 cars have the wings held on by magnets.   That might be a good solution or at least something to try.


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#7 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 07:05 PM

Our Chicago area Hardbody group is very happy with the 25K P-slot motor geared 7/33 48 pitch with the one inch tires. Many womps also use other 25K motors like the MidAmerica  E-25  FK-130.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... (for now)
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#8 rvec

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 08:55 PM

Rich some of the import 1/32 cars have the wings held on by magnets.   That might be a good solution or at least something to try.

Thanks


Rich Vecchio


#9 rvec

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 11:40 AM

Ready for Paint

 

I have edited the original post to show the detail of the rear and front wing mounts and the car ready for paint. For those not interested in the mounting detail below is an image of the car ready

 

 

 

ReadyPaint.jpg


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Rich Vecchio


#10 Dayble

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 01:12 PM

It's looking good Rich!

 

I must point out that the first two pictures at the very top of your post, the cars on the copper taped track and the work bench full of chassis, should be credited to Robert Taylor. Robert is a friend of mine on FB and the guy I got the idea from.  :thank_you2:


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#11 rvec

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Posted 27 March 2020 - 02:25 PM

It's looking good Rich!

 

I must point out that the first two pictures at the very top of your post, the cars on the copper taped track and the work bench full of chassis, should be credited to Robert Taylor. Robert is a friend of mine on FB and the guy I got the idea from.  :thank_you2:

Thanks for giving credit. AZGR is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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Rich Vecchio






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