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"Honey I shrunk the ..." - Phil Rubin 1968 pan Pro car


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#26 SpeedyNH

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Posted 16 July 2020 - 08:33 PM

you gonna put a tiny bit of up-angle on it?


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 16 July 2020 - 09:16 PM

WOW I love the "padlock look" the U-brace gave the Dynamic tongue gizmo. That is SANO to the max  :heart:  :heart:  :heart:  :heart:

 

I'd let dc-65x perform major surgery on me any day  :D


Paul Wolcott


#28 dc-65x

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Posted 17 July 2020 - 11:22 AM

I saw that method of attaching the Dynamic pillow block on a period Pro car Pablo. I thought it looked cool. I don't remember who's car it was.

 

I fudged the guide shoe angle in Steve. I have an angle block set and I was going to mill a little angled flat on the Dynamic pillow block..............but I forgot.  :dash2:

 

I decided to try clamping the pillow block and the part of the drop arm it's soldered to into my mill vise. It took just a little push on the other end of the arm to get the guide nosed up a tiny bit. Not ideal but it worked.

 

I had the chassis all polished out before I set it aside to build the drop arm. Then I find one pan hinge almost rusted shut. I wash and blow out the chassis with high pressure air immediately after soldering but it wasn't enough this time. I put the chassis in a WD40 soak and the pan now moves but not as freely as I'd like.

 

I will never use a one piece pan hinge tube without a clean out hole again. Better still separate hinge tubes so I can blow the crap out of them from the back. I know this is my personal dilemma but I have to do what works for me not what works for others.

 

After the WD40 soak my nice polish job is ruined but I'm not doing it again:

 

Honker 32 (27).JPG

 

I'm having one problem after another with this car. The enjoyment of building it is dwindling fast. It might be time to throw this thing in a box and put this dead thread to bed...........


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Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#29 Martin

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Posted 17 July 2020 - 11:37 AM

You are on the home stretch. You cant give up now.

 

It looks plenty shinny to me, I can actually take my shades off now :laugh2: I like a bit of patina. 

 

Maybe park it for bit until you forget the pain. That's what works for me.


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 17 July 2020 - 03:23 PM

Here is a Hershman trick that works to free up a hinge or any rotating part, like a wheel held with keepers where a hair of flux and solder ends up getting where you don't want it. The wheel isn't spinning free. Put a drop of acid in there and work it work it work it. It frees it up. Now wash it.

 

Works for goobered up hinges like a charm. It won't free it up if it's soldered hard. But if it's just not as free as you want, it will save your day.


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Paul Wolcott


#31 dc-65x

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Posted 17 July 2020 - 05:50 PM

Thanks Pablo, I'll give that a try.

 

Martin, I'm going to take your advice too. I'm moving this thread into my sub-form and parking this project for a while...............

 

Onward to something fun.    :)


Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...






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