37 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Drag racing is not my cup of tea. Don't understand it, but I respect it.

I built the "Gangster Caddy" as a fun drag car a few years ago.

 

 

Red Valentine now owns it and gave me permission to enter it in the upcoming "World Challenge" drag proxy:

 

http://slotblog.net/...one-everywhere/

 

Normally I'd just ignore a drag race announcement, but this is obviously a very well planned proxy event.

The classes are very specific and the rules are clear. That got my attention.

 

I have signed up for two classes. Gangster Caddy goes in the "Nostalgia Can Rods" class.

In the "Just for Fun" class, I will be racing a "Rubber Duckie" car.

 

My "Rubber Duckie" plan "A" is this, and I'm going to need Slotblog advice on how to transfer the power from the arm shaft to an axle  

 

 

If that fails, I'll go to "Plan B" and (with the owner's permission) submit a proven Pablo built Rubber Duckie performer

 

 

[bbr]

Ha ha. Drag racing is addictive, doing little things to make your car go just a little faster

[Tex]

can you put a wheel directly onto the arm shaft for the little rubber ducky car? then cobble together some kind of ferrule/axle assembly to solder to the other side of the motor for the other wheel. then solder some little guide holder directly to the motor.... I assume the little ducky doesn't have to be fast, just make a pass or two, right?

[Pablo]

Thanks Tex. I was hoping to have the motor sit flat like a pancake, but your idea may have something to it.

[mreibman]

how about a worm gear for a pinion, and use that to drive a crown?

 

otherwise I'm thinking some kind of belt drive, but it's tricky to turn the belt 90 degrees.

[Bud Greene]

You ain't lost your mind you're finally coming to your senses LOL
They are fun to build no stinking rules to tell me what I can and can't do to my car

[bluecars]

I'm sure you have thought of hooking the motor to 24 volts to make sure it doesn't smoke before You go to the trouble of building the car. I'm betting that was a 3 volt low amp. motor.

[Alchemist]

Pablo,

 

That duckie should "fly down the track!"  LOL

 

The black caddy looks "bad"! ! ! !

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Ernie

[Pablo]

I'm sure you have thought of hooking the motor to 24 volts to make sure it doesn't smoke before You go to the trouble of building the car. I'm betting that was a 3 volt low amp. motor.

 

You are right, I did test it the day I found it. But I'm glad you reminded me I need to give it more volts to see how much it can take.

 

Red wire is negative, it runs slightly better CW at EB. I gave it full power on my Wright Way, 13 V.

After 30 seconds it had zero heat. RPM's are low but it has massive torque.

 

Hooked it up to a Redneck dyno - my meaty fingers - tried to stop the bare shaft with my meaty fingers, couldn't do it.

So I think it will take a lot of gear. We shall see. 

[Tex]

Thanks Tex. I was hoping to have the motor sit flat like a pancake, but your idea may have something to it.

I assume it was only as a novelty car..... would take a good glob of lead on the guide to keep it from tipping over backwards....

[Pablo]

Oh it's a novelty car all right    It will have wheelie bars so I doubt it could tip over backwards.

 

Never did find a way to harness the transfer of power from shaft to wheels on the pancake motor, so instead of driving myself (even more) crazy, I simply changed to a more conventional motor. Don't know what it is, don't remember where I got it. It runs dead cool, draws 0.3 amps at 5 V. Smooth and slow, perfect for a micro-duckie 

 

Fits a Professor Motor "BWA style" bracket fine. I had to drill my own mounting holes in the can, easy day.

Gears will be Slot-It 10/30. The crown is already drilled and tapped to use a pair of standard grub screws 

 

 

The best part about the design is, the chassis is already 50% done 

[Bill from NH]

The motor looks like a Ninco NC-1, a low speed, but dependable homeset motor. There are clones of this motor too. IIRC, Al Penrose sold one. 

[Vay Jonynas]

They are fun to build no stinking rules to tell me what I can and can't do to my car

 

 

Also an excellent way to discourage kids and other newbies from taking up drag racing - or slot car racing at commercial tracks in general.

 

 

[Pablo]

Parts Gathering phase for my "Micro-Ducky" almost complete. Wheels TBD.

Dynamic tongue and flag, Classic weight, BB wheelie wheels, Slick 7 bushings.

 

A standard FK motor is only slightly larger than the Ninco, so I'm going to make sure an FK will fit it the Ninco goes "poof" 

 

 

So I'll have 3 entries in the proxy:

Red's "Gangster Caddy"

Ms. Tina's "Rubber Ducky"

Ms. Tina's new "Micro-Ducky"

 

I got myself a new electric label maker so I'll add the owner's names outside the cars.

And the registration numbers on the insides  

[Pablo]

Planning complete, but details may change at any time LOL

Dynamic flag, Classic weight and tongue, 1/16 axle front O-Ring wheels. 1/16" main rails.

 

WB 2.5", GL 3/8", wheel widths 2.15" front, 2.5" rear, wheelie bar length 1.5", wheelie wheel width 1 3/8".

Track braid depth is .75mm

 

[Pablo]

Wheelie wheels and axle done

 

 

I warned of changes, right?    I thought this would be an easy build since, hey, it's just a little duck, right?

Wrong - a freaky top heavy body makes it even more important to execute with precision. 

 

The 1/16 square tube main rails are almost impossible to make lay flat and true.

So I switched to CR plated 1/16 wires, true and perfect. I left them long to be trimmed later. 

 

It would be a recipe for disaster to pay for an entry fee and transportation costs to send a wimpy untested motor to Arkansas. So I will use a Hawk Retro motor 

 

[Pablo]

Up front, 1/2" OD O-ring wheels, .063 wire axle, .032 thick brass chunk mated to the Dynamic tongue, no tilt.

Axle soldered to tongue, strengthened with two sets of .039" wire uprights

 

 

[Bill from NH]

When ducks fly in a "V", why is one side of the "V" longer than the other?

[Pablo]

Because sometimes one side has more ducks than the other 

 

The works are jacked up .032 in preps for setting wheelie wheel height.

Haven't decided how to do this yet - I may use a spring gizmo to "load" them - not sure yet

 

 

Coastal Angler advised (in my Caddy build thread) that optimum height setup of the wheelie bar will change as the braid recess changes from track to track. So that's something I'm considering .......

[Pablo]

Now I'm asking myself as a newbie drag builder, does this little car even need wheelie bars?

It's an inline with a disposable Chinese motor. Will it really pop a wheelie? I'm considering just leaving it out 

 

[Bill from NH]

As long as you don't screw in a Mid America Phoenix motor, the duck probably won't fly any quicker with wheelie bars, but it would look cool. Do you get any style points at this drag event? 

[MSwiss]

Because sometimes one side has more ducks than the other 
 
The works are jacked up .032 in preps for setting wheelie wheel height.
Haven't decided how to do this yet - I may use a spring gizmo to "load" them - not sure yet
 
IMG_7174.JPG
 
Coastal Angler advised (in my Caddy build thread) that optimum height setup of the wheelie bar will change as the braid recess changes from track to track. So that's something I'm considering .......

I'm not sure how much tuning the hosts are willing to do, but if you solder on one of my brass set screw collars, the guide shoe can easily be moved up and down, which will pivot the car, and change the wheelie bar height.

[Pablo]

Yes, they do award points for style. Thanks for reminding me. Maybe I'll install them but just make them short.

 

Mike I have your alum collars but I didn't know you made them in brass also 

I have a big Duffy Classis replica collar at the ready, shown in post 14

 

[nomad2race]

Hey Paul!

 

i just found this thread. 

 

Good to see you working on your "Ducky" entry. 

 

For those following along  Here is the event we are building for: Slot Car Drag Race Proxy World Challenge 

 

To answer some of the questions raised here:  Appearance counts for 1/3 of the total score.  Cars in every class will be judged and ranked from first to last, each car getting points. Each car will make a pass and again points will be assigned bases on ET and top speed. (2/3 of final score) There is an options or additional passes with set up changes, limited to 5 minutes of "pit Crew per pass, so yes alternate gearing weight, tires etc. can be tried.  And finally there is an option for a high voltage Eliminator pass to be scored separately.  There are awards and cash payouts, which depending on participation, could be substantial.

 

It's all laid out on the web site.  Repeating it all here would be a bit much... The website reads a bit like a novel... Settle into  a comfy chair before you check into it! 

 

SOOO Pablo,  if you want to win this thing, remember it's a challenge.  Already, I see Rubber Chickens flying in from California, is a  hysterical farting pig from Arkansas, and the Swedes are cooking with wood. 

 

We're planning extensive You tube coverage, so all will be revealed in Hi Def.

 

Who else is game?   

 

[Pablo]

Chassis complete, clearance is level .032

 

 

Once wheelie Orings are installed and car is staged, they will be about 15 thou off the surface.

Since the connecting wires are .039, they can be tweaked up or down.

 

But I consider them more "training wheels" than "wheelie bars"