7 replies to this topic

[mreibman]

I'm a little out of my element here, but I'm trying to properly assemble some aluminum endbells for C-cans.

 

I have 2 I built from Koford kits and they are just fine and dandy. Instructions said to use 0-80 anodized aluminum screws with screw insulators. Ok, no problem there.

 

I now have 4 more on my bench, and I can't find my insulators. So being impatient, it occurs to me to do a couple of things:

- First off, get more insulators, then the ones that are missing will show up. DUH!

- Second, if the endbell is anodized, and the screws are anodized, then they're both not conductive. So why do I need insulators here in the first place?

 

I have some old Koford 27 gear with aluminum endbells, they use insulators, but the screws are stainless steel. I also have some older endbells that use nylon (well, I'm assuming it's Nylon, but definitely some sort of plastic) screws, but these are larger, like 2-56 on some and 4-40 on others.

 

I tried nylon 0-80 screws, but they're WAY too weak to even screw in without spoiling the heads.

 

So - here's my questions:

- Do you need insulators if both the endbell and screw are anodized?

- If we do use an insulator, then why don't we use (stainless) steel screws?

- is there some better way to do this that works for those of us with larger fingers?

 

Inquiring minds want to know. All advice considered and appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance!

[MSwiss]

The anodizing on the aluminum screws is different than the anodizing on the endbells.

On the screws, it will easily come off.

On a Koford endbell, the anodizing is referred to as hard coating.

It's infinitely harder/tougher.

That's why you don't see metallic red, blue, or green Koford endbells.

The process doesn't lend itself to using those "bling" colors.

Bottom line, always use the insulators.

[Phil Hackett]

I'm a little out of my element here, but I'm trying to properly assemble some aluminum endbells for C-cans.

 

I have 2 I built from Koford kits and they are just fine and dandy. Instructions said to use 0-80 anodized aluminum screws with screw insulators. Ok, no problem there.

 

I now have 4 more on my bench, and I can't find my insulators. So being impatient, it occurs to me to do a couple of things:

- First off, get more insulators, then the ones that are missing will show up. DUH!

- Second, if the endbell is anodized, and the screws are anodized, then they're both not conductive. So why do I need insulators here in the first place?

 

I have some old Koford 27 gear with aluminum endbells, they use insulators, but the screws are stainless steel. I also have some older endbells that use nylon (well, I'm assuming it's Nylon, but definitely some sort of plastic) screws, but these are larger, like 2-56 on some and 4-40 on others.

 

I tried nylon 0-80 screws, but they're WAY too weak to even screw in without spoiling the heads.

 

So - here's my questions:

- Do you need insulators if both the endbell and screw are anodized?

- If we do use an insulator, then why don't we use (stainless) steel screws?

- is there some better way to do this that works for those of us with larger fingers?

 

Inquiring minds want to know. All advice considered and appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

To answer your questions:

 

#1: Yes, it's called insurance.

 

#2: Because competitive racers want every last little milligram of weight out of the motor. Stainless screws are perfectly fine when used with hard-coated endbells. I preferred the stainless screws in my motors but that's probably why my cars were so slow (LOL!).

 

#3: Yes: you don't want to pay for it (involves thread milling or machining the spring post as part of the endbell amongst other high cost machining operations) and it would probably increase weight by .0001 milligrams.... and we all know that would be a .00001 second/lap on the track. (sorry for the sarcasm).

[mreibman]

 

To answer your questions:

 

#1: Yes, it's called insurance.

 

#2: Because competitive racers want every last little milligram of weight out of the motor. Stainless screws are perfectly fine when used with hard-coated endbells. I preferred the stainless screws in my motors but that's probably why my cars were so slow (LOL!).

 

#3: Yes: you don't want to pay for it (involves thread milling or machining the spring post as part of the endbell amongst other high cost machining operations) and it would probably increase weight by .0001 milligrams.... and we all know that would be a .00001 second/lap on the track. (sorry for the sarcasm).

No worries there - I am CONSISTENTLY the slowest car on the track when I race. I have finished as high as second place, despite this fact.

 

[bbr]

https://www.thomasne...versus-ceramic/

 

the hard anodizing is tough and good insulator, almost have to grind it off to remove it

[Phil Hackett]

https://www.thomasne...versus-ceramic/

 

the hard anodizing is tough and good insulator, almost have to grind it off to remove it

 

Hard anodizing (class III anodizing as it is known in the metal finishing industry) is sapphire hard. It can be cut with carbide tools but they don't last very long.

[MSwiss]

Phil,
In your opinion, what would you call/classify the anodizing on a Koford endbell?

It drills fine for the hardware and can mounting screws.

IOW, I don't remember it excessively dulling drill bits or center drills.

[Phil Hackett]

Phil,
In your opinion, what would you call/classify the anodizing on a Koford endbell?

It drills fine for the hardware and can mounting screws.

IOW, I don't remember it excessively dulling drill bits or center drills.

 

I have no idea. I know that when we sold endbells the black anodizing we used was hard to penetrate. Once the anodizing was cut away it was only aluminum. Drilling it was harder than tapping it.