42 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

Don't paint a hard body using acrylics.    

[Bill from NH]

If you need a gloss acrylic, check out the Createx Wicked Color Line. All the opaques, except white, are gloss. The pearls, metallics, & fluorescents require a separate gloss coat. Craft shops such as Hobby Lobby, A.C. Moore, & Micheals may have them, as well as numerous mail order sites.

[Pablo]

That's a good idea! But it first needs to pass the adhesion test. Stand by. If Model Master sticks well enough, I'd be willing to try other acrylics.

[Pablo]

I moved this thread to my "Pablo's Builds" sandbox and I apologize for any confusion it may have caused. It has morphed into a full blown Mabuchi/Champion/Havlicek monster left side can drive motor. The first acrylic paint job was a "fail" but the motor has become so nice I'm afraid to experiment with paints on it any further

 

 

The acrylic can paint experiment will continue right here with an old 36D can

 

 

The race motor is getting fully blueprinted. Mura vintage (long and strong) magnets inserted into a Champion shim enclosure gizmo. The hole started at .525, was honed to .530, followed by .538", giving me a total airgap of 25 thou, or 12.5 per side

 

 

Havlicek 26/26 arm and mags are perfectly aligned and centered. The new Champion EB has 26D brush hardware so I dug out a pair of new-in-bag Champion brushes with pigtails, Champion chrome post protectors, and new Champion light red springs. The brushes are hard as a rock but the motor seems to like them just fine.

 

First break in run 100% successful. At 2 volts she draws 1.8 amps and runs dead cool temp. Next step is attach the pigtails and paint the can with rattle can lacquers 

[Bill from NH]

Just my observation, but if it's as hot as you say, I'd want 4 screws holding on the endbell, rather than 2.

[Pablo]

No way, dude LOL It's a revver not a torque monster.

 

Have you ever actually seen that happen, Bill? 

[Pablo]

26D pigtail shunts soldered home and EB cleaned. Motor is ready to rock, soon as we get good outdoor painting weather for the can

 

 

Now, back to the original intent of the thread - testing acrylic paint on a motor can. This time, I won't ruin the primer and paint with gloss that doesn't work 

[Bill from NH]

No way, dude LOL It's a revver not a torque monster.

 

Have you ever actually seen that happen, Bill? 

Motor manufacturers don't put  4 mounting holes in their cans so they can have 2 spares. Yes, I have seen endbells shift in a can with only 2 mounting screws.  I know Havlicek uses 2 screws, but that doesn't make it right. DO as you please, it's your motor.

[Isaac S.]

The shaft looks super long, are you going to trim any of it off? It might hit the crown gear if you are going inline. I've had it happen before. Motor looks good. 

[Pablo]

Motor manufacturers don't put  4 mounting holes in their cans so they can have 2 spares. Yes, I have seen endbells shift in a can with only 2 mounting screws.  I know Havlicek uses 2 screws, but that doesn't make it right. DO as you please, it's your motor.

Oh, I thought you meant the EB coming completely off, as opposed to shifting. Now I agree, I don't want any shifting and I will make 2 more holes. Thank you, you convinced me. Insurance is good. 

 

Grasshopper, I always leave my shafts long until I know exactly what car they will go in, what gears will be used, etc. 

[NJ Racer]

If the endbell is perfectly aligned with the can and is not shifting, tilting, or wobbling  and fits flush to the can with your 2 holes and the screws installed I see no reason to add 2 more holes. If you do add 2 more holes and screws  you run the  risk of misalignment.  

[Pablo]

Bingo, thanks Ray   Today is a good outdoors paint day so I'll be painting n baking the Mabuchi can .......

 

Back to the 36D test monkey. I didn't spend lots of time on the prep since it's just an experiment to see how durable acrylics would be on cans. So any flaws are because of that. The primer and paint sprayed on fine. I'll give it a couple days to "cure" even though it was blow dried nice n hot several times. Then give it the rub n scratch test

 

[Pablo]

Mab can Rust-Oleum primer coat baked on

 

 

Rust-Oleum Metallic Blue to follow ....

[Pablo]

The acrylic experiment turned out fairly good. I did a fingernail scratch test in several places and had to try pretty hard to flake off any of the paint. I managed to get a small piece to fail. All said, I was impressed enough to want to try it again some day 

 

 

The Mabuchi can paint was baked on and turned out nice. Motor buttoned up and broke in, it's a really happy powerplant. The Champion bushes are really hard so I used light springs and it worked out great. Here are the break in stats:

 

She rotated instantly and I dialed in 2V. She drew 2.2A, then steadily decreased to 1.8A. Temp - barely warm. Then 3V she drew 2.45A, steadily decreased to 1.74A. Sounded really smooth and strong. Interesting to note she drew slightly lower amps at 3V that she did at 2V. All the signs of a happy camper. Barely luke-warm temp.

 

Twisted 'er up to 5V for a second and it's spooky fast and smooth. Cats howling down the street kind of whistle. It's perfect 

 

 

[Bill Breck]

Motor manufacturers don't put  4 mounting holes in their cans so they can have 2 spares. Yes, I have seen endbells shift in a can with only 2 mounting screws.  I know Havlicek uses 2 screws, but that doesn't make it right. DO as you please, it's your motor.

 

How many Mura motors have you seen with 4 pin tabs?  

[Isaac S.]

Bill, many if not a majority of Mura's have 4 pin tabs. 

[Pablo]

Gentlemen, please keep in mind the subject of my thread is can painting. Yes I know I sidelined it by making and selling a motor. It's my sandbox, so I can do that. Slotblog got it's cut - it always does when I sell something here 

 

If you want to discuss pin tabs n whatnot, feel free to do that via a new thread in the motor building forum. Thanks 

[Bill from NH]

Here's a clear gloss used by model kit builders over craft acrylics without problems. It's a sandable, if needed, enamel.