13 replies to this topic

[Phil Smith]

I apologize about this post, but I've run into a problem and I'm not sure where to ask this question. Hoping that someone here has some wired alarm systems experience.

 

My DSC PC-1556 alarm board went up in smoke. No longer made so I bought what I thought was a direct replacement. Turns out its not! Almost, but 2 terminals are missing - sort of.

 

The picture below is of the original board schematics. The four "K" are where the keypads (my house has two) connect. The "W" have wires connected, for what I do not know.

 

 

This photo is of my new board  schematic, a DSC PC-1555MX. Two of the four original terminals for "K" are missing, the ones That were labeled red and black. Those "K" wires now connect where the "W" terminals were on the old board.

 

 

So now have 2 wires with no where to connect them. Any suggestions?

 

PS: I should mention that the 2 boards look almost identical, with the new board being a slightly newer model.

[snolde]

Hi Phil,

The W W terminals on the old board are AUX DC Power output.

So if something was connected to those terminals on the old board double lug the wire (observe polarity) to the red and black for the keypad.

Looks like the manufacturer eliminated the Red and Black terminals for the keypad on the new board, now connected to AUX + and -

on the new board.

Two wires going to each screw terminal. Two Negative in one terminal and Two Positive in one terminal.

[Phil Smith]

Thanks Scott!

 

So if I understand you correctly, on the original board the W W terminals are aux. power terminals, and the red and black terminals are keypad power terminals. They are the same. So the new board eliminated the redundancy.

 

So I can wire the W W wires to the same location on the new board, being mindful of polarity. Correct?

[Phil Smith]

And thanks mods for not deleting this. I really appreciate it!

[Phil Hackett]

And thanks mods for not deleting this. I really appreciate it!

 

It shouldn't deleted.... This is the *General* Technical Info & Advice forum. That name makes anything technical a candidate for posting here even if this is a slot car speciality board.

[Bill from NH]

Is this the same forum where all the recipes are posted?

[snolde]

Hi Phil,

Yes that is correct.

[Phil Smith]

Phil and Bill. haha, you do make good points.

 

Thanks again, Scott. Wired it up and its back to where it was before it fried - not working. Not working in that most of my windows are are on the same zone and the alarm shows that one or more is open. But none are. That's my next project.

[Bill from NH]

Phil, my comment wasn't made to pick on your original post. But at a certain point, some forums look just like others. That's why I use the [View New Content] button to read this board & others.

[snolde]

Hi Phil,

You say you have zones that are faulted but the windows are all closed.

Either a broken wire or bad connection at one of the windows or on the way to the windows.

How many windows on the zone(s) that is faulted?

multiple alarm contacts on one zone are usually wired in series with a resistor located at the last window contact if the system was installed correctly. Take a picture of the actual alarm panel and post it in this thread. I'll take a look.

[Phil Smith]

Phil, my comment wasn't made to pick on your original post. But at a certain point, some forums look just like others. That's why I use the [View New Content] button to read this board & others.

 

Bill, I didn't take that personal at all. I thought you were cracking a joke, and not at my expense. I got a good laugh out of it.

 

Hi Phil,

You say you have zones that are faulted but the windows are all closed.

Either a broken wire or bad connection at one of the windows or on the way to the windows.

How many windows on the zone(s) that is faulted?

multiple alarm contacts on one zone are usually wired in series with a resistor located at the last window contact if the system was installed correctly. Take a picture of the actual alarm panel and post it in this thread. I'll take a look.

 

Scott, I thought they were probably in series, which I don't think bodes well for me fixing it. I think there's 10 windows on that zone. And only one wire connecting to that zone.

 

I removed the zone 2 wire and jumpered zone 2 to common. I would think that would have closed that zone, but it did not work! I'm confused.

 

 

[Phil Smith]

Here's how I wired up the new board. I transferred one wire at a time, starting at the bottom. Its the only way I had any chance of keeping the wiring straight.

 

[snolde]

Phil,

the zone is looking for a specific resistance to show a non faulted state. 5.6k ohms.

if you take the resistor for zone two loose from the wire it is connected to and connect the resistor lead to zone common the zone fault should go away. Use the resistor to jump from the zone two terminal and the zone common.

 

if that is what you did already and the zone still shows faulted then it may be a zone programming issue.

Can you use a volt/ohm meter to check the resistance on the pair of wires going out to the windows

with out the resistor in the circuit?

 

If you put your meter on the wire, with all of the windows closed the meter should read a very low resistance, almost the value you would get if you touch the meter leads together.

so the theory for the alarm zone is when all is normal, with the 5.6k ohm resistor in series with the circuit and all windows closed the system will see the proper 5.6k for normal operation.

the system will go into alarm, zone faulted, when the zone is seeing and open circuit or a short circuit. (maybe a zone trouble in the case of a short)

[Phil Smith]

Sorry for the very late replies, Scott. I'm a little tired of jacking with this alarm. Frustrated is a better description.

 

I checked the resistance and it showed open circuit. That makes sense, right? Then I put a resistor that came with the new board in series with the jumper. It did not help. That doesn't make sense!

 

It doesn't seem likely that its a programming issue since the new board is doing exactly what the old board was doing before it fried.

 

Maybe I still have the jumper wrong. I'll give it another shot tomorrow evening.

 

PS: I really appreciate your help! Sorry I'm not a better student!