29 replies to this topic

[Alchemist]

I'm already "imagineering" my second slot car track, yet I haven't finished my first one yet!  LOL

 

I researched track power strip height, to determine how I will engineer my next track; no conductive tape will be employed in my next track build!

 

I've read that some prefer to build their track with the braid slightly below the surface, while others just slightly above.

 

I also came across some info that even the plastic home track sections have the power rails at different heights; the straights are level while the turns are slightly above the track surface - though I don't recall what scale they were running.

 

So, if I may please request your observations-perspectives-opinions if the height placement can/will make a difference in the way the slot car will get around the track.

 

I would appreciate the dialog.

 

Thank you.

 

Ernie

[Alchemist]

Another question came to mind in regards to track braid application.

 

I looked into flat braid and the info I gathered was that it was less than 1/32" in thickness.

 

I'm cognizant that recessing the braid on wood routed tracks has been the "standard", and from my perspective, attempting to route the braid recess is a challenge, which is why some people, like myself haven't attempted to do so.

 

Has anyone ever run the braid without recessing it?

 

With the type of double-sided adhesive tape capable of holding the braid in place, is 1/32" sitting "above the track" really going to hinder the car's performance?

 

Just some questions I am wanting to consider.

 

Thanks.

 

Ernie

[Alchemist]

Hi Mike,

 

My perspective in regards to be challenged, did not convey the meaning behind them.

 

The challenge for me was that I did not feel like modifying my own router bit or purchasing one that I saw for around $50.

 

But it is good to know that having that router bit would make it "easy" to route the recess for the braid.

 

Thanks for the input Mike!

 

Ernie

[Tim Neja]

NO one would want the braid above the track level!  And the braid recess router bits are a necessity to do that correctly and easily.  Well worth the investment as it will save lot's of time!

[Alchemist]

Gentleman,

 

Thank you so much for your input, as it is always valued and appreciated!

 

I'm just trying to keep my "mind intact" since I haven't been to a track for so so long! 

 

My mind keeps wandering while I am attempting to finish my current track - LOL

 

Thanks again - be well everyone!

 

Ernie

[Zippity]

The gains should be deeper than the braid is high   

[Mike Patterson]

To further muddy the waters: IIRC, the original braid on AMCR tracks was not recessed, it was glued on top of the track surface.

 

At least, that's how my two remaining brain cells remember it.

[Paul Menkens]

I think that if the braid is above the surface level of the track you would go through a lot of tyres in a short time

[Rotorranch]

To further muddy the waters: IIRC, the original braid on AMCR tracks was not recessed, it was glued on top of the track surface.

 

At least, that's how my two remaining brain cells remember it.

 

I don't remember any AMCR tracks that the braid wasn't recessed. 

 

Rotor

[jimht]

A tool steel rabbeting bit will do the braid shoulder on a small track without dulling much and it can always be resharpened (or buy more than one, they're cheap).

 

Grind the peg to fit the slot and go for it.

 

https://www.amazon.c...IVB6YSILJ&psc=1

[boxerdog]

You could probably copper-tape it if it was a home-type track??? 

[Alchemist]

Hello Gentlemen!

 

It is obvious my inquiry responses have gone "off-tangent"! ! !

 

I asked about "braid height" and nothing else.

 

My response about not wanting to purchase a tool was in regards to my track I'm currently working on and has no relevance to "braid height"!

 

I also did not inquire about "how to route for braid" either.

 

Now, I'm being "indirectly" called CHEAP - and that has no bearing on "braid height"either!

 

Can we keep "on track" please?!?!?!!!!!  LOL

 

I'm just wanting to gather info for myself, so I can decide how I wish to proceed with my next track - that's all.

 

I value and appreciate you guys because I know that all of you have much more knowledge than I - which is why I'm asking YOU!

 

I'm asking for YOUR help please - I'm not wanting to be called out just because I made a decision not to buy a router bit.

 

I was looking for someone to inform me as to why it is not a good idea to have the braid on top of the track or slightly beneath,  the Pros and Cons of it - - but no one has done so, only how easy it is to route for braid placement.

 

Paul Menkens response in regards to going thru a lot of tires;  one hypothesis I came to realize is that if the braid sat on top of the track, it might possibly cause the rear tire to bounce off the braid, similar to hitting a curb - I presume?!

 

But with foam tires, perhaps that may not be an issue.

 

Anyways, thank you for the input!

 

 

Be well guys!

 

Ernie 

[Rotorranch]

.010-.025 down in the hole for gravity cars. I prefer the shallower recess If possible.  If you are running magnetic braid with magnet cars, the closer to flush you can get it, the better.

 

Rotor

[SpeedyNH]

braids are usually a tiny fraction below the track surface. one usually has to adjust one's flag and braid depth to suit a new track. 

if the braid were protruding, it would catch on the tires and be pulled up. (which can be a problem with copper tape on home tracks as well.) 

[Bill from NH]

Ernie, if braid sat above the track surface, you're asking for it to be ripped up, regardless of how well glued down you think it may be. If you were going to build a track, think about its long-term maintenance. How are you going to replace the braid when it's needed? Just pull it up? If you do, be prepared for some of the underlying wood to come with it. Or, first saturate the braid with one  of the citrus scented glue removers? It'll smell good, but they're messy to use & you'll have a ton of softened glue to scrape & remove. Now how will you set your new braid.at the same height your old braid was, or can you? Maybe make a special glue spreader?  The easiest solution would seem to be initially set your braid a few thousands below the track surface when the track is built. For braid placement, carefully remove the braid as best you can. Then rout the braid recesses about 8 or 10 thousands deeper than they were originally. Do this every time you rebraid the track. This routing smooths the recesses & removes all the dried glue & other junk. At this point you'll probably have track surface & joint defects to repair too. Do the repairs, then completely repaint the track surface, add your new braid, & restripe the lanes. I've helped rebraid three 8-lane commercial tracks in the past, it's more than a weekend job.

 

The deeper braid recesses will only require a guide spacer or two be added. . 

[Brian Czeiner]

I ran on a track back in the late 80's early 90's where the braid was stapled on/above the track surface. We went through a lot of tires. Chassis clearance was also an issue. There was evidence of arcing all of the time. We even smoked a few motors with great enthusiasm and excitement. There were very few nights when a lifted braid didn't need to be dealt with. Over all we didn't care. It was just part of the race. We were having fun. In retrospect, we could have done better.

[Paul Menkens]

 (which can be a problem with copper tape on home tracks as well.) 

however, with copper tape, it's much quicker and cheeper to fix

[MSwiss]

 
I'm cognizant that recessing the braid on wood routed tracks has been the "standard", and from my perspective, attempting to route the braid recess is a challenge, which is why some people, like myself haven't attempted to do so.

  

Hello Gentlemen!
 
It is obvious my inquiry responses have gone "off-tangent"! ! !
 
I asked about "braid height" and nothing else.
 
I was looking for someone to inform me as to why it is not a good idea to have the braid on top of the track or slightly beneath,  the Pros and Cons of it - - but no one has done so, only how easy it is to route for braid placement.

You really can't expect to disseminate erroneous information and not get blowback from the Slotblogger's.

And you claim no one above provided you with any Pros and Cons, but Paul Menkens clearly did that in his post #8.

[Mike Patterson]

Regarding my memory of AMCR track braid in post #7: I contacted Mike McMasters about it, and he informed me that the tracks did have a braid recess. But the braid was only 1/8" wide, with a heat activated adhesive on the back.

 

I apologize for the thread drift. Carry on.

[Bill from NH]

Mike, Cox sold rolls of pre-glued braid that was ironed on. I wonder if it was from AMCR's supplier too?

[Paul Menkens]

Mike, Cox sold rolls of pre-glued braid that was ironed on. I wonder if it was from AMCR's supplier too?

Cox, or someone else, also sold special soldering iron tips designed to fit an American Beauty iron that would fit in the slot and iron both strips of braid at the same time.

[Jay Guard]

Cox, or someone else, also sold special soldering iron tips designed to fit an American Beauty iron that would fit in the slot and iron both strips of braid at the same time.

You mean one of these?

[MSwiss]

I don't think that's it.

 

IIRC, the Cox item was a round cylinder, cut at an angle, with a protruding piece to ride in the slot as a guide.

 

It was as Paul described, to fit in a standard (big) soldering iron.

 

IIRC, the braid was referred to as Stik-Trak, dropping the C's.(as the Sil-Sliks dropped the C)

[Bill from NH]

I think Oscar K. was one who sold them when he had Auto World, in Scranton, during the early & mid-60s.

[MSwiss]

I'm guessing the item Paul described is Stik-Trak Accessory(singular-Lol)