117 replies to this topic

[Mark Onofri]

I'll try 1200 wet sanding tomorrow night. In my botched lacquer thread all the instructions I posted say to do this. Now if I only knew witch one it was !

[Martin]

Mark, I just want to know how you got the fogging.

 

How hot was the water? I can put my hands in the hot water for a second anyway. 

I only work on one end at a time or one side at a time depending on the problem.

I dip the body in the hot water for maybe 3 to 5 seconds ish, its probably 180 I would guess.

I then pull the body out of the hot water, hold in the descried position.

Then hold under (or in) cold water to set the shape. hold for 10 seconds or so.

If it does end up where I want, I do it again and again until its sits flat etc.

[Mark Onofri]

Well granted my hands have been through the mill, I pretty much did it just like that. I didn't use running water and the pan wasn't large enoug
h to immerse the body completely. It's not as if I had a rolling boil, let it come to a boil then I was distracted just long enough to get (comfortable for me) the right temp.
I didn't have the dexterity for this and found it aquard.
Did you ever see where a lightbulb goes off over someone's head when they get an idea? I'm going back to a 100wat bulb. Maybe there's a little more to acid rain than we know 😅

[Mark Onofri]

Something to take my mind off the cold. I couldn't rotate it & maintain the size maximum.

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[Mark Onofri]

Peroxide and warm soapy water had no effect.

[Mark Onofri]

Martin, Is the 151-1 you posted a tubular space frame or ,a ladder type ?

[Martin]

I would assume it a tubular frame. As the pictured you posted. I rotated it for us.

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[Mark Onofri]

Are there upper and lower frame members?

[Martin]

Most cars of this period were made from tubing. So yes there is an upper and lower frame members. Its still a great way to make a frame IMO.

This is an example. Can you guess from which car?

 

 

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[Mark Onofri]

Couldn't tell from the picture of your car. I didn't know that there was a quiz afterwards!
A YUGO ?

[Mark Onofri]

None of the frame is triangulated . So technically , it's not a space frame.

[Rotorranch]

A Cheatah chassis?

Rotor

[Mark Onofri]

A cheetah had virtual no no drive shaft. So I don't think it's that. I'm sticking with Yugo.

[Bill from NH]

Might be a dirt mod, but doesn't look like it has much offset.

[Martin]

Jeff, you are correct sir. It is a Cheetah.

[Dave Crevie]

The square tube elements tend to give it away. Joe Huffacker did the same thing with his Genies.

[Mark Onofri]

I thought it had a parallel 4" tube chassis ala cobra. Maybe that's just on the kit car.

[Mark Onofri]

Back to your car.Are there upper and lower rails ?

[Martin]

Back to your car.Are there upper and lower rails ?

 

Well I did clean and fix some.

I chromed the side pipes found a driver and rear rubber, stuck an old driver and on some black folded card stock.

 

The chassis is similar to Pactra/Competition style (and it maybe?), yes it does have upper and lower frame rails.

 

Thanks Mark, for reminding me to drag this one out

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[Mark Onofri]

Much better photo, that was the state of the art in 1966-7. Have you run it yet?

[Martin]

This would be a typical build in 64/65 IMO but by 66/67 cars had more rails and much lower CG smaller wheels and hotter motors etc..

 

But still this is a survivor, built by an amateur enthusiast.

[Mark Onofri]

I will post the article from 1966 of the 1st car I attempted to build.( I'll save that story for another day.)

[Mark Onofri]

Ok, the 151-1 that I posted is by Stormer.

[Mark Onofri]

A rtr was marketed by International Engineering
You can buy one on evil bay for the low, low, low price of
$274.00 dead presidents

[Mark Onofri]

Plus shipping & tax